It’s been 15 years since the three of us were last in Mousehole together, so it seemed like the perfect excuse to return. After finding a lovely Airbnb overlooking the sea, we packed up the car and headed off on the long drive to South-West Cornwall.
We like to break up long journeys with a National Trust visit, so this time we stopped at Killerton, near Exeter. This 18th-century Georgian house and estate has beautiful gardens, a Grade I-listed chapel and the National Trust’s largest historic fashion collection.
As usual, the volunteers were incredibly enthusiastic. Momma made the mistake of answering “no” when asked, “Have you been here before?” Cue a very long and detailed explanation of the house and its family! We did enjoy looking at all the fabulous clothes from years gone by, though.
After a lovely treat in the café, we set off to find the chapel. Despite usually being pretty good with a map, it took us forever to actually locate it. The outside was stunning, although the inside was a little underwhelming.
We arrived in Mousehole, unpacked the car, and headed out to village. The light this evening was lovely, which meant Momma was soon snap-happy with her camera.
We popped into the local for their pie night, where Santa enjoyed his first pint of what will probably be many Tributes!
The following morning was our first full day, and we were keen to explore some places in this part of Cornwall that we hadn’t been to before. So, naturally, we decided to delve into Cornwall’s mining history and visit a few of its old tin mine sites. We started at Cape Cornwall, which is marked by its distinctive clifftop chimney stack. Once a busy mining site, generations of Cornish miners worked here, including in mine workings that extended beneath the sea.
Nestled quietly in a coastal field at the base of the cape is the stone shell of St Helen’s Oratory. It’s one of the oldest Christian sites in Cornwall, with its roots potentially dating back to a 4th–6th century Celtic church. It was also here that Momma got collared by some Americans who were desperate to find out whether we had spotted any seals (we hadn’t). I made a quick escape…
We then carried on along the South West Coast Path towards the chimney of Ballowall Mine. However, with multiple signs warning us of DANGER MINESHAFTS, a visually impaired Santa, and rain starting to come down, we decided that this was a terrible combination … so we headed back to the car for shelter, and hopefully to keep Santa above ground.
The rain had thankfully eased off by the time we arrived at our next mine destination. Perched dramatically on the rugged cliffs of west Cornwall, Botallack Mine is probably one of the most recognisable mining sites in the area, thanks to its iconic Crowns Engine Houses clinging to the cliffs above the Atlantic. The engine houses were the gateway to mine shafts that stretched more than half a mile out beneath the seabed.
And it wasn’t just the famous engine houses. The surrounding landscape is scattered with reminders of Cornwall’s industrial past, including the remains of arsenic works, dressing floors and more chimneys perched precariously on the cliffs. Together, they make the whole area feel like one giant open-air museum, giving you a glimpse into Cornwall’s mining past and the lives of the people who worked here.
This afternoon was all about recommended watering holes for Santa, with our first stop being The Gurnard’s Head, recommended by Jez. This bright yellow pub is hard to miss and always has three hand-pulled real ales on tap, showcasing a rotating line-up of local Cornish breweries. Santa opted for a Firebrand, accompanied by some very tasty chips.
We then headed to St Ives and parked at the top of the town, which, in hindsight, meant we had to walk a rather long way downhill… and of course, a long way back up. Obviously, this meant Santa required another drink. This time, we headed to The Pilchards Press Alehouse, recommended by Jo. Tucked away down a narrow, blink-and-you’ll-miss-it alleyway, it’s Cornwall’s first micropub, housed inside an old 19th-century stone cellar. It was absolutely packed when we arrived, but this only added to the atmosphere. Santa enjoyed a Mine Brewery beer straight from the keg.
The weather was, once again, starting to turn, but we managed a little wander around the harbour. The boats were bobbing about on the water, and the moody skies contrasted beautifully with the bright blue sea, making for some great photos for Momma. We finished off the day with a quick visit to St Ives Brewery, where Santa, naturally, couldn’t leave empty-handed and picked up a can to take away.
The Travelling Ginger 