Seville 🇪🇸

After our winter sun trip to Porto last year, we decided to catch some November sunshine again, this time in Seville. We had an early morning flight from Luton, and by 14:30 we were checked into our hotel and ready to explore the city. Over the next two and a half days, we walked nearly 12 miles each day, and despite some weather related disappointment (it wouldn’t be a me holiday without it!), we saw most of what Seville has to offer.

Plaza de España One of the most popular spots in Seville, Plaza de España was built in 1928 and underwent a major restoration in 2010. Its sweeping semi-circular design symbolizes Spain embracing its former colonies, and the canal represents the ocean connecting Spain to the Americas. Normally, you’ll see people lazily rowing boats along the water, with gorgeous reflections dancing everywhere. Unfortunately for us, they drained it for cleaning, so we were left with concrete and duck poo. Despite that, stunning detail covers almost every inch of the plaza, blending Moorish, Renaissance and Spanish architectural styles. You can easily spend hours here listening to musicians and watching Tiktokers in the wild.

On our second day we had a huge downpour, but that meant we could return and use the remaining rainwater to capture some beautiful reflections. 

Maria Luisa Park It’s not just about Plaza de España, there are so many other things to see in the park.

  • Gustavo Adolfo Becquer Monument – representing the different aspects of love. Locals and tourists leave love letters, prayers, dreams, and poems in the marble bookshelf.
  • Plaza de America – featuring neo-Gothic, neo-Mudejar, and neo-Renaissance buildings. There are also a few cafes at this end of the park.
  • Jardín De Los Leones – pretty walkways and water features, as well as the Gurugú Mount Waterfall.

Flamenco Seville, and especially the neighborhood of Triana, is considered the birthplace of flamenco, so seeing a show here is basically non-negotiable. There are loads of options, from casual street performances to intimate shows in dedicated flamenco venues. We chose Baraka in Triana because it had lots of 5* reviews and, crucially, included a glass of sangria.

The performance was incredible. The dancer is accompanied by a singer, a guitarist, and sharp, rhythmic clapping. No microphones, no amplifiers, just pure, powerful sound and emotion. Even though we couldn’t understand the lyrics, the story of love, loss, and longing came through so clearly. At one point a group of people started talking, and the guitarist literally stopped mid-performance and stared them down until they went silent.

We also caught some flamenco performers at Plaza de España, which is a great option if you’re short on time. Just make sure to throw a few euros their way.

Real Alcázar The Real Alcázar is the oldest royal palace in Spain that’s still in use today, and it’s been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1987. It’s one of Seville’s most popular attractions, so pre-booking tickets is essential.

Think stunning gardens, water features and peacocks roaming the grounds. Unfortunately, on the day we visited, there was a storm forecast for later in the afternoon, so they decided to close the entire garden area. They also didn’t mention this until you were already inside, and the only notice was a sign on an A4 sheet of paper. Cue many bewildered and mildly furious visitors. And because tickets were sold out for the next five days, most people didn’t have the option to come back.

Even so, there’s still plenty to explore inside, and you can access some outdoor courtyards. Which makes the garden closure even more confusing, especially since the rain didn’t show up until much later.. Palace politics! I thought I’d try my luck with a cheeky complaint to Get Your Guide, and they very kindly gave us a partial refund.

Cathedral  Seville Cathedral is the world’s largest Gothic cathedral and a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and is home to the iconic La Giralda bell tower.

We started our visit by climbing La Giralda, and to our surprise, it wasn’t the usual endless spiral staircase. Instead, it’s a series of sloping ramps leading all the way to the top. This design allowed the muezzin, who once called the faithful to prayer, to ride up on horseback. A much more dignified way of arriving than being sweaty and out of breath.

Inside the cathedral, you’ll find the remains of Christopher Columbus, the vast main chapel with the largest altarpiece in the world, an orange tree courtyard (although not actually orange for us), and the Royal Chapel where Spanish monarchs are laid to rest.

There’s also a strict dress code, which is why we were very baffled to see someone wandering around wearing a t-shirt with “The F Word” printed boldly across the back.

Setas de Sevilla

Nicknamed the mushroom of Seville, Las Setas opened in 2011 and is the largest wooden structure in the world. On top, there’s a winding walkway and terrace that offer panoramic views across the city, making it one of the best spots to watch the sunset.

We timed our visit so we could see the skyline in daylight, then at sunset, and finally at night during the Aurora light show. The only hiccup was actually finding the entrance, which turned out to be -1 level, and not level 1 as the ticket suggested. We ended up wandering around the plaza in circles and nearly missed our time slot.

Our hotel was right next to Las Setas, so we got to admire the giant shroom every day.

Get lost Like most European cities, the best way to experience Seville is simply to wander and get lost in its maze of streets. You’ll find picture-perfect cobblestones, tapas bars on nearly every corner, murals painted on shuttered shop fronts, and balconies overflowing with flowerpots. Always remember to look up.

Because we were there on a Thursday, we were able to explore the local flea market. It was genuinely painful to be travelling with only hand luggage, because we could have bought so much. And if flea markets aren’t enough temptation, Seville is packed with vintage shops too, each one luring you in with that distinctive smell and window displays.

Food and drink  Seville has so many tapas bars that trying to recommend specific ones feels impossible. We ended up in one right opposite Las Setas, and another tucked away in a small square. Both were great… aside from the “sucking lamb” ravioli, which unfortunately looked like the chef had chewed it first and then lovingly spat it back in. The flavour was intensely lamb-y. I didn’t mind it, but Mum gagged.

We also enjoyed chocolate and churros, and found some lovely cafés for coffee, cake, and brunch. You’re truly spoilt for choice here. There are food markets too, where we grabbed an outrageously cheesy pizza, and rooftop bars perfect for sipping cocktails while taking in the city views.

Helsinki 🇫🇮

We arrived late in the evening after the ferry ride from Tallinn. The ferry was huge, with plenty of bars and shops, as well a live band and karaoke! We jumped in a Bolt to our last hotel of the stay – we knew it was close proximity to the station, but didn’t expect to look out the window straight onto the train platform. So for the 2nd hotel of the trip, complimentary earplugs were supplied. That being said, we weren’t disturbed by them at all!

Breakfast was a rowdy affair, as this hotel was much bigger and busier than any we had stayed in for the last week. But there was still plenty of options, and we took advantage of all the freshly baked breads and pastries, ready for a day of exploring.

We started by getting a ferry over to Suomenlinna – a must see when in Helsinki. A UNESCO World Heritage site, it’s made up of a group of eight islands that together form a sea fortress.  We got off the boat, grabbed a map from the visitors centre, and headed out to see what the island had to offer.  One of the first things you come to is Suomenlinna church, which also functions as a lighthouse, making it one of the only dual purpose churches in the world. The rest of the first section of the island we found quite underwhelming, and it would definitely look better with a bit more green on the trees. Once we got to the Kustaanmiekka sand banks and artillery however, the scenery became a lot more intertesting, and definitely worth coming for. Most of the cafes on the island were shut due to being out of season, but I can imagine Suomenlinna gets absolutely rammed during the summer months. 

Helsinki Cathedral – The church is built in the shape of a Greek cross and the central dome of the Cathedral rises to more than 80 metres above sea level.

Uspenski Cathedral – Considered to be the largest Orthodox temple in Northern and Western Europe. The central cupola of the cathedral is 33 meters high. 

Old Market Hall – Relatively small inside, but full of local produce, and is perfect for those who love fish. Also check out the Market Square – look out for the orange tents (which are heated in the winter months). It sells produce, treats, crafts and souvenirs. It is opposite here that you catch the ferry to Suomenlinna.

Sibelius Monument – Perfect to pop by on your way to Regatta Cafe. It resembles large church organ pipes and is dedicated to the Finnish composer – Sibelius. 

Regatta Cafe – The ‘must visit’ cafe.  The traditional red cottage cafe has brought a part of the Finnish countryside to Helsinki, and is famous for their cinnamon buns and hot chocolate. We tried both, and have to say they were delicious. Expect a queue as its very popular. We were lucky and were able to get one of the few seats inside. 

Temppeliaukio Church – Built directly into solid rock, it’s also known as The Rock Church. Very interesting to see the architecture, but at €8pp it was way too expensive for what it was. I was expecting guides and access to a toilet – unfortunately you don’t get either.

We finished off our day in Helsinki with yet another Newcastle game. We found a sports bar, got settled in, and then they changed the game for NHL instead 🤣 the next nearest option was an Irish bar. It was smelly and sticky, with dirty glasses (we were told that’s all they had 🤷🏼‍♀️) and strange people.. but it had the game on, and that meant Mark got to see them beat Blues. A perfect end to the trip!

So, was Helsinki worth it? We definitely wouldn’t recommend it as a stand-alone trip. However, the flights here can be super cheap, so it is a perfect place for 24 hours before going onto Tallinn. Being Finland, it’s obviously a lot more expensive. We went to another bar after the Irish Bar, and a pint & 2 packets of crisps cost €18!! There’s certainly no ‘old town vibe’, it’s just another busy and modern city. 

Tallinn 🇪🇪

The journey to Tallinn on the Lux Express was super comfortable thanks to our extra leg room and recliner seats – it was definitely worth the extra money for the boujee section of the bus. The journey was smooth, aside from the police pulling us over and getting on to inspect everyone’s documents. Luckily all was well, and we arrived to a very dark and deserted bus station. Thank god for Bolt as we were literally in the arse end of nowhere! We got checked in, then Mark forced me out at gone 10pm to find a sports bar to support the mighty toon army in the Carabao Cup semi final. Although highly rated, the Unibet bar was nearly empty, but it meant we had a pick of the TVs and super speedy bar service. We also accidently ordered a huge plate of bar snacks…

After another hearty breakfast of meats and cheeses, we set out to explore Tallinn. Again, not heading to the old town first, but to Telliskivi Creative City – located in the Kalamaja neighbourhood in a former mechanic and locomotive factory. Very vibrant and edgy, this colourful part of town is also full of cafes, bars and independent shops. Urban photographers could literally spend hours here as there is art work and murals on every surface. Its also home to art festivals, concerts, comedy shows and experimental theatre during the warmer months. 

Next to Telliskivi is Balti Jaama Turg – once a typical soviet market, its now an impressive space selling local produce, with cafes and bars, street food, antiques and vintage clothes. Another place where plenty of time is needed to properly explore, and an extra suitcase for all the treasures you’d want to buy! We had a vastlakukkel (fresh bun filled with cream) from one of the vendors, and it was absolutely delicious. 

We headed over to Tallinn’s Old Town, and in contrast to Vilnius and Riga, it was quite bustling! There are many streets and passageways to explore, but as we were losing daylight, we knew we would have to save most of our exploration for the following day. We did manage to visit the impressive Alexander Nevsky Cathedral, located at the top of Toompea Hill. It is certainly one of the most unique architectural pieces in the city. Completed in 1900, when Estonia was part of the Russian Empire, the cathedral was built as part of the Russification policy in the 19th century, directly across from Toompea Castle to demonstrate Russian supremacy.

Just for a change, we fancied having a few beverages in some of Tallinn’s many pubs. First was Hell Hunt, for a plate of bar snacks, including pig tongue (very hammy, slightly tougher texture.. Actually very nice!) and a try of their vast selection of beers, and Mikkeller, because Mark loved it so much in Copenhagen. After being well watered, we headed over to the highly rated Olde Hansa, where you are transported to the medieval era. Think 15th-century merchant house, it has period décor, furniture, and even costumed staff who address you as lord and lady. Everything is by candlelight to try and keep it as authentic as possible. There’s even a traditional troubadour band on certain days, and we were lucky enough to have them playing for us. As our bellies were still full from the bar snacks, we opted to have a few small plates, and it was actually really tasty! We finished off with some schnapps, which were quite awful 🤣 even though its very very touristy thing to do and the food is pretty expensive, we really enjoyed the evening here and would highly recommend it.

The next morning we woke up to something we haven’t yet has on this trip.. Blue sky! We started the day by walking part of the city walls from Hellemann, where you are able to walk the longest section that is open to the public. The oldest part originates from the 13th century, and taking shape over the next three centuries, became the greatest and strongest defence system in Northern Europe. 

There are two viewpoints – Patkuli and Kohtuotsa – within very close proximity of each other that offer great views across the city. I just wish more people followed the photography etiquette of standing in a line to take the photo, and not just pushing in (just so British and love a queue) and then moving out the way once you’ve taken the photo. 

The oldest pharmacy – The oldest pharmacy in Europe that has continually operated on the same premises. It was first mentioned in town records in 1422. Unfortunately, the museum is currently closed for renovation works

Vitu gate – This was part of the defence system of the Tallinn city wall built in the 14th century, and is the main gateway into the old town from the new town. The gate is the only thing that remains standing from the previous wall, which was demolished in 1880.

We spent the rest of the day wandering around and getting lost in the cobbled streets, each turn full of charm and beauty – this is the best way to see the city, as you never know what is around the corner. 

As you know, we always like to try local things when travelling, and a google search suggested we tried Kohuke – a curd snack covered in chocolate. We got a few different options, but unfortunately, we did not find these a taste sensation. They were foul 🤣 and after one bite of each one, hoping one would at least be edible, we decided the correct place for them was in the bin. 

It was time to head back to the hotel ready for the final stretch of our travels – the ferry to Helsinki.

We’ve really enjoyed our time in Tallinn. Even though Estonia has the smallest population of the Baltic states, it definitely packs the biggest punch. We actually wished we had an extra day so we could take a trip to the frozen waterfall. Although the first impression at the bus stop was again, where the hell are we.. We soon changed our minds. It is one of the best preserved medieval cities, but has the perfect mix of old and new, as well as so many beautiful and colourful buildings, a vast range of bars, cafes and restaurants, and the locals even seem to enjoy the old town too! It also feels very Nordic, without the hefty Nordic price tag.

Porto Day 1 🇵🇹

A few days off work means it’s time for a city break! This time, Momma Wood is joining me for a trip to Porto – the second largest city in Portugal. Since we had a late flight from Manchester, we decided to arrive in the area early to explore Quarry Bank Mill, a National Trust site. It’s one of Britain’s greatest industrial heritage sites, featuring a rare surviving eighteenth-century cotton mill surrounded by 400 acres of beautiful woodland and countryside along the River Bollin. There was so much to see, and the two hours we had really wasn’t enough. With a latte in hand (after some not-so-subtle glares at the queue-jumpers) we headed to the mill. There’s 5 different floors to explore, and it offers an immersive and informative experience, with so much machinery and live demonstrations by volunteers. We also had a mooch along the river and soaked up the last of the autumnal colours before heading back to the car for the short drive to terminal 3.

After driving around for ages, we finally found a space in the car park and made our way to the terminal building. Security was surprisingly quick, except for the woman in front of me who had to take out 1001 items from her coat pocket. We had our obligatory cheeky squirt of the most expensive perfume in duty-free, and smelling like a tart’s fart, set out to find some food. We opted for a burger in the pub and ended up sitting next to a very inebriated guy who was excitedly slurring that he had never been on a plane before. I wouldn’t be surprised if that remains the case for him! Our flight was (obviously) delayed by half an hour, but all was well as we know how a Ryanair pilot likes to put their foot down, and we landed on time. Momma seemed to be taking a while at passport control, but was delighted to tell me that it was because the officer at the desk thought she looked younger than her photo—what a flirt!

Thanks to my Genius level on Booking.com, I managed to arrange a free transfer from the airport. The lovely Eduardo picked us up in his massive Mercedes and took us to our hotel. It took us a while to figure out how to get inside (as doors are locked after 8pm) but we were buzzed in and greeted by the most enthusiastic receptionist, who was excited to share all the wonderful things Porto has to offer. He even showed us on the map where he was born! It was refreshing to see someone who truly loves their job. We settled into our room, indulged in our complimentary Nata, and caught up with “Strictly” before heading to bed, ready for a full day of exploration ahead.

We had packed for the glorious forecast of 22° and sunshine. But lo and behold, we woke up to a thick blanket of fog, rain, and a chilly 14°. After demolishing all the cheese and ham at breakfast, we donned our warmest clothes and set out in search of an umbrella. Luckily, we found one at a souvenir shop for €5. I opted for a jumpsuit, but as it’s a Cider special and made for someone who’s 6ft, wearing it in the rain turned into a soggy adventure as the long legs soaked up half of Porto. A quick outfit change back at the hotel was therefore required into something a bit less absorbent. Momma was serving Asda realness as she paraded around in her bright green poncho.

São Bento – the train station that is currently surrounded by lots of construction. Inside, the walls are covered by 20,000 painted tiles, by Jorge Colaço, which illustrate episodes from the History of Portugal. It opened in 1916 and is considered one of the most beautiful train stations in the world.

Igreja de Santo Ildefonso – an 18th century baroque style church, with approximately 11,000 azulejo tiles covering the façade. Momma was getting incredibly annoyed at the amount of people who just walked in front of her while trying to take a photo!

Chapel of Souls – definitely in a tile-counting competition with the previous church, boasting around 16,000 tiles covering the façade. Our plan to take shelter inside was slightly thwarted as we were crammed into the back and rather close to the flickering candles—making us somewhat concerned about how flammable Momma was!

The Twin Churches – between the two churches of Carmo and Carmelitas lies the narrowest building in the city. This tiny house was built to make all contact between the nuns and the monks impossible. Another particularly difficult photo stop – at least we can now erase people from pictures 😉

Miradouro da Vitória – a free viewpoint of the city and full of edgy graffiti. This added an artsy touch to the place making it a fascinating spot to explore. Reviews suggest that it is usually rammed here, so at least the gloomy day came in handy!

Chocolataria das Flores – now feeling peckish, we found this little café down a side street. We placed our order, which arrived with the addition of a (very dry) giant chocolate cookie. As we don’t speak Portuguese, and they didn’t speak particularly good English, we decided against questioning the additional treat. Especially as we noticed other tables had one too. Unfortunately, this wasn’t a complimentary snack and we did have to pay for it. 

Porto Cathedral – one of the city’s oldest and most important local Romanesque monuments. Adjoining the cathedral are the cloisters, and the architectural style is quite eclectic. It’s decorated with Baroque azulejos representing the life of the Virgin Mary. Underneath the poncho, Momma was rocking Portuguese tile chic and blended in nicely. 

Ponte de Dom Luis I – the most famous bridge in Porto, with the mastermind behind its design being a protege of the famed Gustave Eiffel! It has an upper and lower deck and spans along the world-famous Douro River, and as we had a bit of time to kill before our exciting evening plans, we decided to take a stroll along the upper deck. There wasn’t a dramatic sunset, but the twinkling lights across Porto & Gaia still made it very atmospheric.

Fado – this evening I booked an absolute treat! A glass of Port and a Fado show. Momma wasn’t initially keen, but at 13 quid each, it would be silly to not experience this. Fado is a traditional Portuguese folk music genre known for its soulful melodies, expressive vocals, and melancholic character, and often reflect themes of lost sailors, broken hearts, bittersweet romance, fate, reunions, and the passage of time. The musicians were fantastic and the singer had an impressive set of pipes. It’s hard not to feel touched by the performance, even though we had no idea what she was singing. Considering this was the first time they had all sang/played together, they really did put on an excellent show.. although we both agreed that an hour was long enough.

Mcdonald’s – said to be one of the most beautiful McDonald’s in the world, we obviously had to check it out. The Golden Arches took over in 1995 in the space previously occupied by a famous Portuguese coffee shop, which was an icon in the 1930s. The building retained many of the original Art Deco features including the ornate ceilings, chandeliers, and a large stained glass wall, and along with the giant eagle at the entrance makes it the poshest I’ve ever visited! They had a great selection of different food (although lukewarm) and the whole place was so clean. We also realised that we are both obviously lovers of green patterned trousers…

We’ve had an incredibly packed first day in Porto! Here’s hoping tomorrow treats us to blue skies…

Mauritius – The South 🇲🇺

The drive to Gatwick wasn’t its usual hellish self, meaning we arrived before check-in had even opened! However, so had the rest of the plane, so the queue for check-in was huge already. We hadn’t realised you needed to fill out an incredibly lengthy health form before check in (turns out most of the plane didn’t realise either) so we were able to get that completed in the queue. After dropping our bags, we whipped through security, meaning we had plenty of time to eat. We chose burritos, then did a couple of (unsuccessful) laps of the shops to try and find some chub rub shorts that I’d forgotten to pack. The airline we flew with was Air Mauritius, meaning momma gets a new sick bag to add to her collection! The next 11.5hrs were… interesting. Including the child behind projectile vomiting everywhere about 20 mins after we had taken off, the child to our right running around, banging the chairs and wailing for most of the flight, meaning there was a colourful arguement between his Dad and the bloke in front, and the driest sausage and egg for breakfast.

We landed early in the morning, collected our bags, and met our driver to take us to our first hotel in the south. He was very keen to show us lots of places on our way to the hotel, including some beautiful viewpoints and a waterfall. Whilst we were very grateful to him for doing this, neither of us had slept due to the noisy child and constant wafts of vomit, and we just wanted to get to the hotel. We arrived at Chalet Chamarel, and wow. The views were absolutely incredible over the Le Morne mountain. Due to arrival time, we weren’t able to get into our rooms, so we sat and chatted with the 3 other couples who had also arrived that morning. The chalet we were given was beautiful. It had an egg chair outside the front overlooking the incredible views, a balcony out the back to look over the forest, and a massive half outdoors shower. It really was stunning. That night, we were treated to a gorgeous sunset, a lovely dinner, and a much needed early night.

The next day, we had a lazy one planned. Just sit by the pool, read, and take in the views. November in Mauritius is, of course, one of the best months to visit due to little rainfall. However, when we woke up, we were met with thick fog and drizzle. We remained optimistic that it would pass, but unfortunately, the heavens continued to open, and by 1pm, it was still pouring with rain. So there was only one thing for it – head to the rum distillery! We organised a taxi through reception and initially got quoted £45. Bearing in mind, the distillery was only 15 mins away, we decided this was way too expensive and managed to get them down to £36. The taxi driver arrived and drove us down the roads that now resembled a river to the distillery. He said how unusual this amount of rain was, that the amount that had fallen that day so far was usually the amount for the whole of November. He was confident, however, that the next day would be better. We joined the quick distillery tour, but obviously, we were all here for one thing – rum tasting! The first one we had was actually quite nice, but they soon went downhill after that. But if rum is your thing, you get 8 tastings! We then explored the grounds and headed to the café for a mojito, which was delicious. We hopped back in the taxi and made our way back to the chalet to get ready for dinner. Luckily, our chalet was right next to the restaurant, but some unlucky couples had to wade through the mud to get there. After dinner we joined the others 3 couples we had chatted to the day before for drinks, and we chatted for hours about our past travels and experiences.

The following morning we woke up to glorious sunshine and gorgeous views once again over Le Morne and the Indian Ocean. Sounds like our taxi driver was right! Wrong… by 10am, the heavens had opened again, the fog was back, and it was way worse than the previous day. So we settled in the egg chair for another day of reading. By around 2pm it was just drizzle, so we decided to put on our hiking boots (which we had originally packed as we had planned to either hike Tamarind Falls or part of Le Morne, but the weather meant either was now far too dangerous) and walk to 7 Coloured Earth Geopark – an area of sand dunes comprising of seven distinct colours. The paths were getting flooded, but it was still nice to be able to get out and about. The taxi driver from the previous day had told us that because we were staying in the Chalet Chamarel, we would get in for free. This, however, wasn’t the case. After explaining what we had been told, explaining we had no cash and no data to buy tickets online, the lady eventually gave up and let us in for free. Due to the weather, the 7 colours you can usually see weren’t as vivid, but we were still glad we had done it, as it’s one of the must do attractions in the area. We then decided to walk to the waterfall that we had seen on arrival day, and what a difference the rain had made. The falls were now full and thunderous, and between the thick fog patches, it was spectacular to see. The walk back was soggy and uphill, but we saw loads of interesting birds and plants, and as we were one of the few people out and about, it was really peaceful as well. Unfortunately, I had forgotten to pack the Jungle Formula, so we both got absolutely eaten alive.

That evening, the weather had kindly cleared up again, and arrangements were made for us and the other 3 couples to eat together. So we got dressed up, and made the most of the clear evening to get some content 🤣 we had lots of lovely food and lovely wine, the company was great, and we all had such a nice time. It was the perfect end to our last night in the South.

The following morning was glorious again, so we decided to have a boujee breakfast and have champagne. We went back to pack, but as if by clockwork, the rain came again, this time, however accompanied by thunder and lightning. We were meant to be getting picked up at 1pm to be taken to the North. However, the no-show and frantic phone calls from the staff suggested that this probably wouldn’t be happening and time soon. Luckily, our driver did eventually arrive – due to the weather, the roads were flooded, and trees had come down, so he had to go an alternative and much longer way round to get to us.

We were so looking forward to exploring the South, as there are so many different things to see and do, but we were just so unfortunate with the weather. Every local we spoke to couldn’t believe it, and said that even in the wet season, it wasn’t this bad! We were lucky to be staying in such a lovely place, although slightly isolated, and feel blessed that mother nature still let us have some gorgeous views. Hopefully, the North would bring us some solid sunshine…..

N.I Day 2 – The Causeway Coastal Journey 🌊

Last night was rough… with crashing waves, thunder, lightening and a power cut (and lots of house alarms). Luckily by 1am it had all calmed down, and we were finally able to get some sleep. Today was all about the Causeway Coastal Drive, and we woke up to drizzly to start the morning. We had a lovely refreshing walk along Portstewart Strand – a two-mile stretch of golden sand, with views of Inishowen headland and Mussenden Temple perched on the cliffs above. Bearing in mind we were in thick coats, we were very surprised to see the amount of people in swimming costumes, frolicking about in the ocean! I just had to look at it as was borderline hypothermic!

The next stop was Whiterocks beach, with its stunning limestone cliffs stretching from Curran Strand to Dunluce Castle. The cliffs here are unusual as they are made of chalk; whereas most of the causeway coast is made of basalt. There are so many interesting geological landforms here, from cliffs, shore platforms, caves, arches, and sea stacks.

The great thing about the coastal drive is its many viewpoints, and Magheracross did not disappoint. Here, there is a purpose built viewing platform offering panoramic views of the coastal headlands. Another plus point is the coffee and ice cream van! We were incredibly thirsty by this point, so it would be silly not to pay them a visit. Santa enjoyed an ice cream snack, and Momma and I shared a very delicious brownie.

Back onto the official coastal route and a few minutes drive later, we arrived at Dunluce Castle. We were expecting something small, but the site is actually huge, and very reasonably priced. The castle played its part in Northern Ireland’s dramatic history before falling into its current state of ruin. Today, the remains stand out on the dramatic cliffs, but remain in danger of crumbling into the sea below. It’s also the filming location for House Greyjoy in Game of Thrones.

Whilst walking round, I (thought I had) spotted Santa and wondered why he had changed his shirt. Turns out there are actually 2 Santa’s 🎅🏻

We then headed for the one we had all been looking forward to – Giants Causeway. Clearly being very thick, I assumed the ‘giant’ part of the name meant ‘big’ and not a legend that a giant was the one who had built the causeway. I was therefore expecting the actual hexagonal stepping stones to be much larger than they actually were 🤣 Don’t get me wrong, it’s still an incredible sight to see, but it was incredibly busy, and it didn’t help that we chose to visit on a weekend when the weather was actually decent. It’s Northern Ireland’s only UNESCO World Heritage Site and is thought to be almost 60 million years in the making. If you plan on visiting here, don’t come on a weekend and try to come out of season. Also, leave enough time to explore some of the walks in the surrounding area.

We continued the trail to Dunseverick, starting at the ‘castle’ and following the coastal path to the waterfall. Standing on the edge of the promontory are the crumbling ruins of the castle. Therefore, using your imagination is key. King’s gazing out to sea, watching potential invaders circling the rugged cliff below. By this point, it was really hot, and so we were able to enjoy the walk in just t-shirts – a stark contrast to this morning. Unfortunately I haven’t packed any suncream as the forecast suggested otherwise. An error I don’t usually make! We continued along the path to the waterfall, and I think this can be classed as a hidden gem, as it’s where a narrow river finalises its journey free falling down to the sea. The waterfall’s volume is obviously dependent upon rainfall.. but no need to worry about that because we’re in Ireland! The water cascading down is so calming and peaceful, so we took a perch on a nearby rock to sit and relax.

What do you think of when you hear the word beach. Is it the sea? The sand? I’m sure it isn’t cows… but that’s what you’ll find at White Park Bay, and they are said to be the most photographed cows in N.I. The bay itself is a huge stretch of golden sand, and is backed by ancient sand dunes that provide a range of rich habitats for bird and animal life. Swimming here is not permitted due to rip currents.

As the day was closing in, we decided that we would only have time for a few more activities. Stopping at Ballintoy Harbour meant we could get a few things ticked off in one go – the harbour itself and Elephant Rock. The walk to the rock is another beautiful one as you are surrounded by all sorts of rock formations, but MY GOD the initial part of it absolutely stunk of rotten fish and poo… however all was well when Elephant Rock came into view. Local folklore says this rock was the result of a woolly mammoth which had the misfortune of being caught as it tried to flee from an erupting volcano! The harbour here is very small, but also plays a part in GoT – where Theon Greyjoy arrives back to the Iron Islands and where he first meets his sister, Yara.

Feeling very tired and ready for our final stop, we headed for Dark Hedges (such a GoT filled day.. and Momma and Santa have never seen it!!) When I was last here, people we abandoning cars all over the place. Now, it is access only (although some bellend decided to ignore this and park their car right in the middle…) and you have to park in a car park just a short walk away. Although it’s hard to properly appreciate with the amount of people that choose to visit, it’s still worth it for a quick swing by.

The ocean was incredibly rough when we eventually got back to our apartment, and whilst taking the last few photos, we spotted dolphins 🐬 There was so many of them, jumping in the waves and having the absolute best time. Unfortunately they were incredible hard to photograph.. but here is some of my poor attempts…We had a lovely picky tea and drinks whilst looking out our window. We have been so so lucky with the weather today, but my crispy ginger face certainly knows about it 😭

Luxembourg Day 4 🇱🇺

Our last day in Luxembourg! As it was National Day, we knew that shops and cafés would have reduced opening hours, however it was basically a ghost town as nothing was open at all.. apart from Pret! We had hoped to visit one of the local bakeries this morning, but the chain will have to do. We had a granola bowl, toasties and drinks, and because we were bordering on re-mortgaging the house to pay for it all (don’t let all this talk of cost put you off.. we’re just pigs) the lovely man behind the counter gave us a free cookie. The food was really tasty – I definitely think Pret is up there with the best tasting coffee chain foods.

We could see large groups of people and families heading over to the Adolphe Bridge, so we guessed this is where the events of today would take place. We joined the crowds of people who were all waving their flags, and watched the military planes fly past. Although really cool to see, they really don’t do it as well as the Brits 😉 the Luxembourg Amry then all drove past, followed by the police, fire and ambulance. We were a bit too far away to hear the band that was playing, so decided to move a bit further down to see what was going on. Unfortunately we got there just as they had finished, however we managed to grab a spot at the front just in time to see the Grand Duke and his wife get in their car and drive past. We even got a wave! So surreal, but funny to think we have gotten closer to the big bollocks of Luxembourg than we have to our own.

The craft bar we had stopped at a few days prior wasn’t far away, so we decided to pop in for a cold one. We watched the dignitaries in their smart get-up wandering the streets and shaking hands with people, and members of the military band chatting to the crowds. It was really lovely to watch. We spotted a large crowd over by the army tents so decided to check it out. They were only giving out free beer!! As many as you wanted! They had stands where you can try on their gear and sit in vehicles. There was a band playing and food being served. It was such a great atmosphere, and the weather was perfect.

We decided to spend our last few hours in Luxembourg just wandering the streets. However, now the parade was over, the shops and restaurants were starting to open. We have walked past a bar called Urban every day, so we grabbed their last table and settled down to a fruit beer and some lunch. The food was really tasty, and the portion sizes were huge! For the final drink, we went to a vintage bar over the road, where locals sat on knackered old arm chairs playing chess.

On the walk back to the hotel to get our bags, we took the scenic route for one last look at the ruins and then up the panoramic elevator. It takes you from historic at the bottom, to modern at the top and is 71M tall. It’s free to use and gives great views across the city. We could hear music playing in the park so decided to check out what was going on. It was absolutely swarming with families. There was games everywhere, including inflatables, racket games, giant board games, as well as food and drink carts. As we’re not one for early arrival to the airport 🤣 we decided to grab one last drink and take a slow walk through the park. It’s such a massive shame to be going home. We’ve had such a great time soaking up all the atmosphere of the last few days, and The Script and 1975 were headlining City Sounds that evening!

I hope we have put Luxembourg on your radar to visit as it’s such a lovely country. Maybe even get a trip booked for 22nd/23rd June 2024 to party with the locals! Whilst public transport is free, hiring a car will allow you to see all the little towns around the country in just a few days. There are plenty of hiking trails, and even a little waterfall. The old town is stunning and perfect for a peaceful walk, and the bars are great for just watching the world go by.

Luxembourg Day 3 🇱🇺

We woke up this morning to the weather we are usually blessed with on our adventures… rain. We had planned to explore the Mullerthal Region today, which is referred to as Luxembourg’s little Switzerland, however we hadn’t really packed for wet weather, and decided it would just end being a soggy and miserable day. Instead, we went for breakfast at one of the highest rated spots. Obviously, when we got there, every table was full; the majority with cool young hipsters and their laptops who clearly had no plans to move all day. Luckily, a table of mature ladies vacated, so we dived straight in. Whilst the latte was a massive letdown, the food made up for it and set us on our way for a day of cafe hopping.

Walking tour Ken had recommended the Chocolate House for its delicious hot chocolate and perfect view of the guards outside the Grand Ducal Palace. We got there as the rain had stopped, so we were able to get a seat outside. There are so many different flavours of hot chocolate to choose from. Mark chose orange, but unfortunately, he had to say pardon 3 times when the waitress asked if he wanted dark or milk. When he eventually realised what she was asking, he went with milk, but she had other ideas and gave him dark instead.

Another recommendation we had been given was Bock Casemates – a subterranean defence system made up of kilometres of tunnels and one of the most important visitor sites in Luxembourg. It’s an inside activity, so perfect for a soggy day! During the two World Wars, the Bock Casemates (and those of the Pétrusse valley) served as a shelter with the capacity to protect 35,000 people in the event of a bombardment. It’s an interesting site to walk around and also gives you alternative views across the city. Luckily, these tunnels are a lot bigger and wider than the ones we visited in Vietnam! As there was a break in the rain and feeling a little snackish, we popped to Ladurée for some overpriced drinks and super tasty macaron. The rain break didn’t last long, and accompanied by lots of thunder, it began again.

When we booked this trip, we had no idea of the significance of the 22nd/23rd June to Luxembourg. The 23rd is National Day – a day to celebrate the Grand Duke’s birthday, but celebrations get underway on the 22nd. It all begins with the traditional changing of the guard in front of the Grand Ducal Palace, with the participation of an honorary detachment from the Luxembourg Army. The Luxembourg Military Band also provided musical entertainment, including ACDC Highway to Hell! We managed to get a really good spot to watch everything, but felt very out of place without a Luxembourg flag to wave.

The evening celebrations was a DJ set by Flavour Trip, Wade (nope.. no clue either!) and Lost Frequencies. As this didn’t kick off until later, we decided to pass some time by visiting a cat cafe. The first one we visited in Prague was a bit of a disaster as a cat piddled all over my scarf! Luckily no such event happened this time. We were surrounded by lots of fabulous kitties who were very interested in trying to lick the cream out of Mark’s milkshake. Just before we left, the owner gave us some treats to give them, and they all came running. Actual cat heaven.

The forecast for the evening was poor, so we decided packed our umbrellas. As we got bag searched to go into ‘City Sounds’ we were told we were not allowed to take umbrellas in, and to leave them by the entrance in a giant umbrella pile. I’ll give you one guess as to whether they were still there when we left 🙄 we got some food, beer and wine and got our spot ready for Lost Frequencies. The heavens decided to open just as the set began, and everyone around us got their umbrellas out!! Absolutely fuming! Luckily I had the wanker hat. The main event of the 22nd is the firework display – one of the biggest in Europe. We piled onto the tram with 1000s of others and got to the viewing area. There was so much pushing and shoving, and we ended up being stuck behind a tree. Although we had a slightly reduced view, the fireworks were INCREDIBLE. There are so many great places to watch the fireworks, so getting there early is a must.

We had seen all the bars getting ready earlier in the day for the huge street parties which kick off after the fireworks, so were keen to check them out. Unfortunately being 5ft2 in a crowd isn’t the best, and I hated every minute of being squashed, shoved and trodden on. It really was hell. Although the atmosphere was great; the drinks were massively overpriced and it was impossible to move, so we decided to head back to the hotel. On the way back through the square where we had met Ken, we discovered lots of space, a great DJ and cheap drinks. So we were able to enjoy some of the party vibes with the locals.

Luxembourg Day 2 🇱🇺

We woke up to a glorious first morning in Luxembourg. On our tour with Ken yesterday, he told us about a local market on Wednesdays and Saturdays which is perfect for getting meat, cheese, fruit and veg and other tasty treats. We decided to check it out and get our breakfast like the locals do. Mark decided to try out some of his GCSE French, but got as far as Bonjour, before ordering a punnet of strawberries in English. Luckily the stall holder spoke excellent English, so there was no confusion with what we wanted. It was then my turn to order the pastries, however this time all of their labels were in German. As I didn’t even reach GCSE German, I decided to just point at what I wanted – we’re such British tourists 🤣 we spotted Pret had some seating outside, so grabbed a coffee and sat with our goodies watching the world go by.

There are so many places to visit in Luxembourg, and it’s so small that you could drive North to South in around 2hrs. We however have not hired a car, so decided to spend today visiting Vianden as it’s easy to get to on public transport. As I mentioned in day one, one of the great things about Luxembourg is public transport is free! I did however have to pay 70c to use the toilet in the train station. The first leg of the journey was via train to a town called Ettelbruck. The trains are double decker and very clean, with plenty of leg room. The second leg was via bus to Vianden. Unfortunately we had the craziest bus driver known to man, who decided to overtake a tractor, and car, whilst going round a bend and going uphill. This is obviously a manoeuvre he has done before, as he did it with such confidence, and we are still here! This whole journey took around 1hr.

It is said that Vianden is one of Luxembourg’s prettiest towns, and its clear why. It has charming winding streets, pastel coloured houses, and of course, the castle up on the hill. The castle had been renovated over a number of years so its worth going inside for a visit. There are a few ways to the top, but we obviously had to take the chair lift. The ride is slow, meaning you are able to fully take in the surroundings, and the views are stunning. Once at the top, there are a few viewpoints, and of course a restaurant. You then need to walk to the castle – we chose the ‘challenging route’ as it was much quicker. Its very do-able, just a bit uneven underfoot.

Entry to the castle is €10, and is definitely worth it to see this authentic masterpiece of Romanesque and Gothic architecture. You can go around at your own pace, and luckily no volunteers that want to grab you in every room 🤣 there are plenty of rooms to visit, as well as items found on digs around the castle, outfits they would have worn and towers with great views.

We decided to take the easy route back to the chair lift, however this wasn’t signposted well at all, and after about 10 mins we decided we would definitely get lost in the middle of the forest, and retraced our steps back to the challenging route. We had read about a bakery selling the best croque monsieur in Vianden, so we headed there to try it our before we headed back to the city. Unfortunately.. they had sold out 😭 so we settled for a meat and egg baguette before heading back to the bus stop, to begin the journey back. As it had been a hot and sweaty day, a few of the passengers were rather fragrant…

We got back to the hotel, showered and headed out for a Maccies. We went to one a bit further out as it was bigger and had screens to order off – always makes it easier in another county! It was the cleanest one we have ever been in, and we enjoyed adding another one to the world tour list. On the tram there we spotted a busy area with a funfair, so decided to head back there for a look. Mark fancied a pudding and went to the churros stand. After being told multiple times to just get a small, he ordered a medium, and there was enough churros to feed the entire country. Although they were tasty and not greasy like some of them can be, we were quickly defeated.

We had also spotted a cool looking bar, and soon realised they sold 100s of cans of beer from all over the world. Mark enjoyed getting beer advice from the owner, and we sat outside with our drinks (I even had a beer! Fruity obvs) There was a very interesting group of people next to us however, and the bloke was really getting into telling them how he didn’t like being fingered 🤷🏼‍♀️ As it was getting late, we decided to head back via one more bar we had seen in the town. A gin and tonic was €12, however I definitely had at least half a pint of gin, so I guess it was worth it! The heavens decided to open, so it was a quick dash back to the hotel and to bed, ready for another day of exploring.

Luxembourg Day 1 🇱🇺

The alarms were set for a super early start this morning as our flight was from Heathrow, and to save us nearly £100, we chose to use Purple Parking rather than park at the airport. Luckily Mark’s parents are around an hour away from Heathrow (one of the reasons I swiped for him haha) which makes the journey there a slightly easier one. Purple Parking is super easy to use and would 100% recommend them (pending car collection!). We hopped onto the shuttle bus and arrived at T3 in around 10 minutes. We got into the queue for bag check, but it soon became apparent that we were in the queue for American Airlines instead! This seems to be a common mistake as others soon followed us to the correct check in area next door. We whizzed through security, and this meant we had over 2hrs in departures! We went to Spuntino for breakfast, which for airport standards was actually very good. And of course, a breakfast pudding from Nero 😋 we made our way to our gate, and then came the dreaded announcement.. a flight delay! The tannoy stated “there has been a big accident on the tarmac meaning the crew can’t get to the plane. Fire are in attendance”. This made it sound very dramatic, however after around 20 mins, we were allowed on the plane. Then came the next bit of news.. we’ve missed our slot and Luxembourg is too foggy to land in, so we’re being put into a ‘holding bay’ until we could take off. After nearly 45 minutes here we were able to take off, for the super lengthy one hour flight. The best thing about flying BA, is even though it has taken me longer to drive to Birmingham, you still get a free drink and snack from them.

One of the great things about Luxembourg, is all public transport is free! Even for tourists. Getting from the airport to the city centre is super easy on the bus, and we were really fortunate that our room was ready early when we arrived at the hotel. After a quick swill and a change of clothes, we headed out to see what Luxembourg had to offer. One of the first things we noticed was how clean the place is, but that could be to do with the amount of bins there is.

The many bins in the park

To get another UNESCO ticked off the app, we headed to the old quarter and fortifications. We walked along The Chemin de la Corniche, which is said to be “Europe’s most beautiful balcony”. I’ts clear to see why.. the views are absolutely stunning. We strolled along some the passage ways down to the waters edge of the Alzette to get a closer look at the bridges and architecture. It can only be described as like something out of a fairytale, and is the perfect place for a bit of peace in the middle of bustling city.

As we know absolutely nothing about Luxembourg, we decided to book a walking tour, with the added bonus of wine tasting. As we had around 20 mins before we met the group, we decided to have a drink. From the very minimal research we did before coming, most of the reviews and blogs say service is slow and waiting staff are VERY rude. We sat outside a cafe and got completely ignored by the waitress, and after a good 5 minutes of no interaction, we got up and left. As we were now running low on time and getting dryer by the minute, we decided on swinging by maccies to get a drink from there (don’t worry, we will be visiting properly tomorrow as part of our Maccies World Tour.) We headed to the meeting point where we met some fabulous gays from the group, an American and an Aussie who are living together in The Hague! The tour guide however was nowhere to be seen, and we eventually got comms that the previous walk was taking a while, meaning ours was going to be delayed. The boys recommended a bar just around the corner, so we popped there to kill some time, and luckily the service there was good, with a great selection of beer.

We headed back to meet the group and our tour guide, Ken. A very enthusiastic chap who is born here and lived here his whole life. We learnt that by the age of 16, most people in Luxembourg can speak French, German and Luxembourgish, and large proportion can speak English. In fact a lot of locals here can speak 7 different languages! We walked around cute squares, saw the Cathedral and Grand Ducal Palace, the Pont Adolphe Bridge, and once again, the Corniche. Luxembourg is the 2nd richest country in the world and has the highest minimum wage in the EU. This is why so many people from the bordering countries come to work here, hense why so many languages are learnt and spoken by locals. It’s also the only Grand Duchy in the world, and we’ve accidentally planned our trip around the Grand Dukes official birthday – but more about that later! We tried 2 wines, one of which was Crémant de Luxembourg, a quality sparkling wine. Both were delicious. We don’t really ever do walking tours, but this one was really enjoyable, so will probably do more of these in the future. We booked through Get Your Guide.

This evening we decided to go slightly out of town to a highly rated tapas restaurant. And I have to say, the ham croquettes and patatas bravas were probably the best we’ve ever had. Even beating Barcelona! Although a relatively pricey meal, it was worth it. We walked back into town to have a drink overlooking the valley, and this was the perfect end to the day.