Day 3 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿

I came downstairs this morning to Santa asking Momma, ‘Is this wood too big?’.. luckily, he was referring to the driftwood he got from his morning beach walk to go in the garden.

Inner Farne As we’re so close to Northumberland, it would be rude not to take a boat trip over to Inner Farne. We booked with Serenity and paid £30pp, with the additional landing fee being free as we’re National Trust members (13pp for non-members). The tour sails around all of the Farne Islands, then lands on the breeding seabird heaven that is Inner Farne. Momma was buzzing to be snapping away, especially after the camera incident whilst in Antarctica 😬 David Attenborough says this is one of his favourite places in the UK to see magnificent nature, and he’s certainly got that right! On our way to the islands, we were surrounded by many different species of birds bobbing on the sea and swooping in the skies above.

We sailed passed Staple Island which was overtaken by guillemots and kittiwakes, and then headed off to see the seals who were either lazing on the rocks or bobbing inquisitively in the sea. There are an estimated 3,000-4,000 Grey Seals in the Farne Islands!

Next was Longstone Lighthouse, where Grace Darling lived. At the age of 22, she gained national notoriety for her bravery for the part she played in the rescue of survivors from a wrecked merchant ship in 1838. Along with her father, they saved nine people from the wreck of the ‘Forfarshire’ that ran into a horrendous storm on its way to Dundee.

The landing on Inner Farne is 1 hour treat of seabirds.. but first you have to get past the Arctic Tern’s! Luckily, it was raining, which meant our heads were protected by our hoods.. they are incredibly territorial and are only trying to protect their young, but having them swoop, peck, and attack is absolutely terrifying at first! I don’t think any of us have ever walked to the toilet so fast!

Puffins are the star of the show here, and they are absolutely everywhere! Seeing them running around with their bill full of sand eels is an absolute joy to watch. Every year, they return to the Farne Islands for a short window of breeding and raising their young. This is usually between April to late July with the peak time being between May and June.

Other birds we saw inclide razorbills, black headed gulls, and my personal favourite – a shag.

Twizel Before heading back to Eyemouth, we consulted the Alltrails and found a circular that included a castle, a viaduct and a bridge. Twizel Castle is Grade II listed, but all that remains now is a shell of a folly that has been overtaken by nature. Unfortunately it’s too dangerous to explore inside and is completely fenced off, but you can still get close enough to imagine what it would have been like back in 1415 when it was held by Sir John Heron.

The walk continues along the River Tweed, before turning to following the River Till. It’s a very peaceful walk, with just the sound of the river and singing birds. The next highlight is the viaduct, which saw its last train in March 1965, and the track has since been removed. Unfortunately it’s very overgrown so difficult to appreciate it in all its glory.

At the end of the walk we were treated to the Twizel Bridge – completed in 1511, this bridge was the largest single span arch in Britain (90 feet) and remained so until 1727. The bridge carried the main A698 road from Hawick to Berwick-upon-Tweed until 1983, when a modern bridge was completed immediately to the south.

We finished off another fabulous day with a walk around Eyemouth and a big, dirty Chinese feast!

Northumberland day 4 🌳

A little bit late to the blog party for yesterday’s activities!

The morning was spent doing a walk which I found on Alltrails (if you don’t have this app, I highly recommend it!) and it was a lovely 3.5 mile loop to bag another trig point. We were treated to amazing views of The Cheviots, Lindisfarne and Bamburgh and this would be the perfect place for a sunrise or sunset. It also featured St Cuthberts Cave; an overhanging outcrop of Sandstone rock, supported by an isolated pillar of stone and surrounded in mystery due to its spiritual past. Unfortunately due to some idiots it has got quite a lot of fire damage so is recommended not to enter the cave, but it is still a very interesting site to walk around.

The last part of the walk was very overgrown so we had to go a different way back to the car. This meant we were later than planned getting back and ready to head to Cragside (thanks to Debbie for this recommendation) and wow the place was absolutely enormous! You definitely need a whole day here to explore and not just the few hours that we had. There is an option to do a 6 mile drive around the grounds but we opted for a walk to the house and formal gardens. It is definitely like stepping into another world, with its craggy and forested landscape giving off North American vibes. The queue for the cafe however was enormous, so bear this in mind and consider taking a picnic.

To finish off Momma’s birthday celebrations we had lunch in a treehouse! There are plenty of menu menu options here and we opted for the three course set menu 🐷 Santa enjoyed an Alnwick IPA and we toasted the occasion with a bellini. The restaurant was very quirky and decorated with hundreds of fairy lights and was the perfect setting for a celebration 🍾

We visited many beaches during our stay but the one at Bamburgh was out firm favourite, so we decided to return here for a few beers and a Schloer! It was the perfect way to end our adventure and another part of the UK ticked off.

Day 5 – This morning we started with a Full English at a farm shop which was definitely worth the wait. Momma and Poppa left us to head home whilst myself and Mark (who joined us yesterday post nights!) head to Newcastle to watch the Mighty Magpies (🤣🤣) take on Leeds tonight.

Northumberland day 3 🏰

Mummy and Daddy decided to get up super early for a sunrise this morning. I chose not to see 5am as this only happens on night shifts or airport runs!

There was no need for the emergency jumper today as it was scorching! This morning we drove to Craster; a small little fishing village and the start of the beautiful coastal walk to Dunstanburgh Castle. Parking was a bit of a nightmare as it’s super busy, the car park machine only takes coins and there is absolutely no signal so you can’t pay on the app – so bear this in mind if you ever visit. We hadn’t planned on spending so long here, but being an English Heritage Site means free entry for members! It was worth the twitchy arse climb up the stone spiral staircase for views of the wave battered coastline. Again there is a vast variety of seabirds, particularly gulls. So don’t forget your binoculars! After the walk we went to the Shoreline cafe for a coffee and a cake. There aren’t many places to eat here so be prepared for a queue, however it was so worth it as the cakes were delicious.

Next on the list was Amble, another fishing town and a very fragrant one! If you like seafood then this is the place for you. Unfortunately we do not.. so quickly whipped around the pier to the lighthouse and back to the car. The High St was full of independent shops and it was so lovely to not have a Costa in sight!

As we were driving to Amble we drove through a gorgeous village called Warkworth, so we had to stop for an explore. The giant sign saying brew house also helped! We had a lovely walk to the church, medieval Bridge and another castle (did you know, Northumberland has 70 of them!) and of course stopped for a beverage. Santa enjoyed 2 local brews with views of the castle.

This evening we went for a drive following a recommendation from the Airbnb owner. The sunset over the Cheviots was stunning and it was great to have a different view other than coast and castles.

Dinner was finally something other than Co-op! We managed to get a chippy, and wow it was one of the best we have ever had.

Northumberland day 2 🏰

Our poor little trotters! Today has been very packed and we have walked 14 miles. This morning we headed to Berwick to check out the Royal Border Bridge; a grade 1 listed railway viaduct. The river was well behaved and gave some fabulous reflection shots, which of course momma loved. We then headed to the lighthouse and it was a twitchers heaven! The area surrounding the lighthouse was rich in seabirds and is definitely somewhere you could sit with a picnic and pair of binoculars. I think we probably saw more varieties of seabirds than when we were on Skomer.

When in Northumberland you have to visit the Holy Island of Lindisfarne – it’s the law! The constant signs to check the tide times gives you slightly twitchy arse, but as long as you know you will be treated to a lovely walk around the island. As the castle is a new trust and another stamp in the passport, we made sure we had our slot chosen. Luckily we managed to shimmy in before the ridiculously large tour group beat us to it. As well being steeped in history, it gives great views over the island. Its not a dramatic walk, but is perfect if you love the coastal air.

Back in the Juke, across the Lindisfarne Causeway and onto Seahouses – the gateway to the Northumberland Coast. Its full of pretty fishing boats and more seabirds, and the most important thing; a doughnut van! We stopped here for a beverage and Santa was most excited to find they had Directors on tap. The Olde Ship Inn was perfect for a rest and views of Farne Island.

The final stop for today was exploring Bamburgh and the beach surrounding the castle. As I still didn’t have a coat, I had to be an honorary Imp and wear Santas Lincoln City top! The sky and light tonight was very dramatic and the photos just don’t do it justice. You can’t beat a walk along the beach with the noise of crashing waves and a fabulous castle in the distance. There is a lovely walk to the lighthouse to see Stag Rock and back along to the castle and it was definitely worth doing this at sunset.

We had hoped for a pub meal tonight, however the first pub in the village stopped serving food at 7:30 (and did look a bit local shop for local people!) the second doesn’t serve food in the week and the third didn’t have a chef! Thank god for the local Co-Op!