Tag: Europe

Gower 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿

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What to do when I have 2 days off? Have a 24hr adventure obviously! After finishing nights and having a few hours sleep, we packed up the car and headed to Swansea for a night in a cheap Travelodge. We dumped our bags and headed out for some food and a pint at Sessions by Mumbles Brewery. Unfortunately, the chef decided he fancied the day off, which meant no pizza. Luckily, the friendly staff offered to whip up a couple of delicious paninis for us instead. Santa was especially thrilled to hear it was Happy Hour, and got his second pint for free! We then returned to the car, ready to catch the sunset at Three Cliffs Bay.

We parked at the Southgate National Trust car park and embarked on a scenic cliff top walk toward Three Cliffs Bay. The natural light was beautiful, and after about 40 minutes walking, the peaks emerged before us. The seclusion of the area, thanks to the relatively lengthy walk, added to its charm, and there were very few people around. 

I took Momma and Santa down a steep and rocky path leading to the beach, which of course they were thrilled about! The golden sands and blue waters, complete with rock pools and steep cliff edges, created a perfect natural setting, untouched by cafes or shops. 
As we strolled across the beach and ventured through the triangular gap in the rock, we remained mindful of the tide gradually coming in.

After some exploration, we returned to the cliff walk to catch the sunset. It was stunning, with the colours changing every moment. Leaving was difficult, as we wished to linger and fully soak in the atmosphere and picturesque views.

The following morning, after a breakfast at Spoons, we headed back to Three Cliffs Bay, but this time parking at Gower Heritage Centre. Here you can stock up on coffee, cake, ice cream, cider and all sorts of other treats – much needed to fuel a walk to the beach. Starting the walk from this point not only provided a fresh perspective of the beach but also allowed us to take in stunning views of Pennard Castle, and a go on the stepping stones along the way.

We then headed to Rhossili Bay – a consistent favorite in Wales’ Top 10 Beaches. 
It’s backed by dunes and overlooked by 200-metre-high hills and jagged sea cliffs. There’s a large National Trust car park on the clifftop, which of course is free for NT members. As we strolled along the coastal cliffs towards the old coastguards station and Worms Head, we encountered wild horses and their foals grazing peacefully. For those who can plan their visit carefully, it’s possible to cross the causeway to the Worm, but this requires timing it within the two and a half hours surrounding low tide. Since we weren’t able to time our visit for that crossing, we took the opportunity to relax a bit and enjoy the stunning scenery in the sunshine.

Walking back along the cliff, we continued to admire the expansive three-mile beach before stopping by The View for lunch. We were fortunate to secure a bench with, as the café’s name suggests, an incredible view. The
food was absolutely delicious. Momma is already thinking about planning a trip to The Worms Head Hotel to capture the sunrise and sunset—ideal moments for photography!

We had initially planned to visit The Mumbles, but in our quest for adventure, we decided to seek out Whiteford Lighthouse, the only wave-swept cast-iron lighthouse in Britain. Measuring 13 meters tall, this decommissioned lighthouse was constructed in 1865 and is situated at the northern tip of the beach. Whilst we knew reaching the lighthouse would be a challenge, we didn’t anticipate just how much of an effort it would require. We parked in Cwm Ivy and set off through the woods, alongside the salt marsh. This area was reclaimed from the sea in the 17th century for farmland and has been protected by a sea defense that has evolved in size and strength over the years. However, in 2014, the sea wall breached, allowing the waters to reclaim the land and transforming Cwm Ivy from a freshwater marsh into a salt marsh.

We knew we would eventually need to traverse the sand dunes, and we spotted a stile that led into them, which seemed like the logical route. However, we encountered several barbed wire fences along the way. Fortunately, many had been flattened in spots by previous walkers, allowing us to navigate through. We made our way through the spiky Marram grass and finally reached the beach, which was completely deserted. Unfortunately, the lighthouse was still some distance away, and access varied depending on the tide, so we decided to take advantage of Momma’s super zoom for a closer look before we searched for a better route back to the woods. After tackling a few more fences, we ultimately found our way back to a proper path.

Once we made it back to the car, we decided that it would be ambitious to try to fit anything else into our day, so we decided to head home, reflecting on a wonderful 48 hours spent exploring Gower.

Yorkshire 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿

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Get ready for our adventure in stunning North Yorkshire! We set out to uncover charming new towns and picturesque beaches, alongside some favourites we’ve visited before. Join us for another action-packed itinerary and share our top recommendations for a reet good getaway!

Brodsworth Hall & Gardens Since it was a long drive, we decided to take a break and stretch our legs at this stunning English Heritage site. The country house is well-preserved, and the gardens are beautifully manicured, with seasonal flowers on display. Fortunately, during our visit, we were treated to a vibrant sea of tulips. The site first opened to the public in 1995, and extensive work has been done since then to create the beautiful attraction you see today. There are gardeners everywhere, meticulously tending to the plants and lawns and ensuring that all the bushes are perfectly trimmed. We chose to skip the inside of the house (though I’ve heard it’s worth a visit) and instead enjoyed the tea room, where I must say, we had one of the best coronation chicken sandwiches we’ve enjoyed in a long time! If you’re an English Heritage member, this is definitely a perfect stop on your journey.

Staithes This quiet and charming fishing village was the childhood home of Captain James Cook. Parking is available only at the top of the hill, so be prepared for a steep walk down and an equally long and sweaty walk back up. Take a stroll along the high street, where each side street offers another opportunity for great photos. At the end, you’ll find the harbour, which is sheltered by rugged cliffs. Be sure to visit the Cod and Lobster, a perfect spot for a well-deserved pint with relaxing views. Additionally, this village is home to Dog Loup, one of the narrowest streets in the UK, measuring just 45cm wide.

Saltburn-by-the-sea This is where we chose to base ourselves for the next three nights, in an Airbnb just a stone’s throw away from the beach to the left, and the shops to the right. It perfectly captures the essence of a British seaside town, featuring colorful chalets, fish and chip shops, and a pier, but without the overwhelming number of arcades (although I do enjoy a slotties sesh) and other typical tourist tat. One of the main events in Saltburn is the cliff lift – it uses water to move the two carriages up and down, and is the oldest cliff lift of this type operating in the UK. The other is its pier – its Grade 2 listed and is the last remaining pier in Yorkshire!

Unlike our usual adventures, we decided to spend an entire day exploring the local area without using the car at all! We began the day with a stroll along the beach to Marske-by-the-Sea, where we stopped at ‘In the Dog House’ for coffee and cake. At first glance, the place looked a bit questionable, but the coffee was excellent (and I always appreciate a complimentary biscuit), and the staff were incredibly friendly. After our break, we took a different route back along the cliff walk to get a different perspective of Saltburn. We walked through fields with very inquisitive cows, maneuvered over a few challenging stiles (which were a bit tricky for Santa and his hip), and ventured into the wooded valley of Hazel Grove. From there, we visited the viaduct and Saltburn Gill before making our way back into Saltburn itself—it turned out to be a delightful 8.6-mile walk.

We then headed to The Ship for a much-needed drink, and Santa was thrilled to discover that they had Old Peculiar on tap! The pub boasts a large beer garden, which served as the perfect vantage point to watch the surfers while Momma snapped away with her camera. Next, we took a walk along the pier, had a quick go at the 2p machine (where we sadly won absolutely nothing 😩), and admired the colorful chalets. Finally, we returned to the beach for some fish and chips and a bottle of wine.

Rievaulx Abbey  This monastery was one of England’s most powerful Cistercian establishments, founded in 1132 by just 12 monks. At its peak, it was home to around 650 residents until its dissolution by King Henry VIII in 1538. Following this, it transformed into an iron forge, where the lay brothers at Rievaulx produced their own tools, nails, and cutlery. Eventually, the forge closed down, and the land passed through generations of the landed gentry before being designated a historical monument in the 1900s. Visitors can utilize audio guides and will find plenty to explore in these remarkable ruins, easily spending hours immersed in their history. We arrived here just after opening, so had the abbey to ourselves for most of our visit, much to Momma’s delight!

Helmsley From quiet to absolutely packed, we secured the very last spot in the car park! Helmsley is the only market town within the North York Moors National Park, featuring charming old sandstone buildings that host a variety of independent shops, cafes, and restaurants. Thanks to the fantastic weather, the square was bustling with motorbikes, much to the irritation of the owner of the cafe we chose! After enjoying our mandatory coffee and cake, Momma took some time to explore The Ginger Bear, while Santa savored a beer at the brewery. Our final stop in Helmsley was the impressive castle, boasting over 900 years of history—marking our second English Heritage site of the day.

Thornton-le-Dale This pretty little village kept popping up during our research, so decided to swing by to check it out. The car park is huge, but the adjoining toilets were absolutely filthy (I just love seeing turd smeared all over the walls). Whilst the village has its appeal, a drive-through would have sufficed. However, we did enjoy a sandwich and sausage roll during our stop!

Whitby Whitby is an incredibly popular destination, and as an added surprise, it was the Goth Weekend! This event has been taking place since the mid-’90s, attracting people dressed in gothic attire and showcasing other alternative subcultures. While many attendees wore steampunk outfits, the variety of costumes was impressive and contributed to a unique atmosphere. We climbed the 199 steps leading up to the gothic ruins of Whitby Abbey, which sits precariously on the windswept cliffs, often battered by the elements. Founded in the 7th century, this Abbey fell victim to King Henry VIII, resulting in the nearly complete demolition of its south side in 1539. Not only does the Abbey possess a rich and vibrant history, but it also served as inspiration for Bram Stoker’s Dracula.

After exploring the Abbey, we visited Whitby Brewery, located in the shadow of the Abbey. Santa enjoyed a Black Death stout, and we all indulged in some delicious pizza. Afterward, we strolled over to the Whalebone Arch, erected in 1853, which frames a stunning view of the town below as well as the Abbey. To finish off the day, we headed to the East Pier to catch the sunset. The streets were now empty, allowing us to admire the old cobblestones and shopfronts on our walk back to the car.

Runswick Bay Runswick Bay is a hidden gem on the Yorkshire coastline, offering a picturesque village filled with charming atmosphere. Cue more red-bricked roofs and winding streets huddled together beneath dramatic cliffs. With the tide out, we had the opportunity to explore the stretch of coastline, although we unfortunately didn’t find any fossils. However, a young family enjoying the rock pools did discover a large lobster – I think the whole of Yorkshire heard her screaming “We’ve found a lobster”. We really enjoyed Runswick! We ended up staying longer than we thought we because it was so relaxing. We would highly recommend a visit here.

Robin Hood’s Bay Another popular destination, the steep hill from the top of the village provides views of the surrounding coastline. This hill leads down to the lower part of the village, a maze of narrow, cobbled alleyways lined with charming houses at every turn. Picture Yorkshire stone houses adorned with brightly painted doors and, of course, red rooftops. Momma was in her photography element, until we got to one of the iconic houses and it was covered in scaffolding..

Historically, Robin Hood’s Bay was a hotspot for smugglers. The police would frequently raid their contraband, only to indulge in the rum and brandy themselves. It often resulted in the officers falling into a deep, drunken sleep, allowing the smugglers to reclaim their goods!

During our visit, we stopped by a little hut near the beach to grab some sandwiches to enjoy at the top of the hill while taking in the views. Unfortunately, Santa’s tuna sandwich turned out to be a cheese sandwich instead. Of course, this didn’t phase him, and he still gobbled the whole thing up. We ended our day with a drink at the Victoria Hotel, which held a bit of nostalgia for Mum and Dad as it was where they stayed during their last visit.

Flamborough Head The last place we visited before heading home was Flamborough Head, a chalk headland known for its sheer white cliffs. It features two lighthouses: one built in 1669 and the other in 1806. The color of the water here was incredible—something you would expect from a tropical island, not the windy coast of Yorkshire. The photos truly don’t do it justice. 

In addition to being an important site for seabird colonies (making it a hotspot for migratory birds), Flamborough is also home to a large population of seals. It was delightful to watch them play and lounge around the Drinking Dinosaur rock formation. If you’re a wildlife lover, this place is absolutely for you. We wrapped up our lovely few days with the most delicious ice cream before embarking on the long drive back to the Midlands.

Helsinki 🇫🇮

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We arrived late in the evening after the ferry ride from Tallinn. The ferry was huge, with plenty of bars and shops, as well a live band and karaoke! We jumped in a Bolt to our last hotel of the stay – we knew it was close proximity to the station, but didn’t expect to look out the window straight onto the train platform. So for the 2nd hotel of the trip, complimentary earplugs were supplied. That being said, we weren’t disturbed by them at all!

Breakfast was a rowdy affair, as this hotel was much bigger and busier than any we had stayed in for the last week. But there was still plenty of options, and we took advantage of all the freshly baked breads and pastries, ready for a day of exploring.

We started by getting a ferry over to Suomenlinna – a must see when in Helsinki. A UNESCO World Heritage site, it’s made up of a group of eight islands that together form a sea fortress.  We got off the boat, grabbed a map from the visitors centre, and headed out to see what the island had to offer.  One of the first things you come to is Suomenlinna church, which also functions as a lighthouse, making it one of the only dual purpose churches in the world. The rest of the first section of the island we found quite underwhelming, and it would definitely look better with a bit more green on the trees. Once we got to the Kustaanmiekka sand banks and artillery however, the scenery became a lot more intertesting, and definitely worth coming for. Most of the cafes on the island were shut due to being out of season, but I can imagine Suomenlinna gets absolutely rammed during the summer months. 

Helsinki Cathedral – The church is built in the shape of a Greek cross and the central dome of the Cathedral rises to more than 80 metres above sea level.

Uspenski Cathedral – Considered to be the largest Orthodox temple in Northern and Western Europe. The central cupola of the cathedral is 33 meters high. 

Old Market Hall – Relatively small inside, but full of local produce, and is perfect for those who love fish. Also check out the Market Square – look out for the orange tents (which are heated in the winter months). It sells produce, treats, crafts and souvenirs. It is opposite here that you catch the ferry to Suomenlinna.

Sibelius Monument – Perfect to pop by on your way to Regatta Cafe. It resembles large church organ pipes and is dedicated to the Finnish composer – Sibelius. 

Regatta Cafe – The ‘must visit’ cafe.  The traditional red cottage cafe has brought a part of the Finnish countryside to Helsinki, and is famous for their cinnamon buns and hot chocolate. We tried both, and have to say they were delicious. Expect a queue as its very popular. We were lucky and were able to get one of the few seats inside. 

Temppeliaukio Church – Built directly into solid rock, it’s also known as The Rock Church. Very interesting to see the architecture, but at €8pp it was way too expensive for what it was. I was expecting guides and access to a toilet – unfortunately you don’t get either.

We finished off our day in Helsinki with yet another Newcastle game. We found a sports bar, got settled in, and then they changed the game for NHL instead 🤣 the next nearest option was an Irish bar. It was smelly and sticky, with dirty glasses (we were told that’s all they had 🤷🏼‍♀️) and strange people.. but it had the game on, and that meant Mark got to see them beat Blues. A perfect end to the trip!

So, was Helsinki worth it? We definitely wouldn’t recommend it as a stand-alone trip. However, the flights here can be super cheap, so it is a perfect place for 24 hours before going onto Tallinn. Being Finland, it’s obviously a lot more expensive. We went to another bar after the Irish Bar, and a pint & 2 packets of crisps cost €18!! There’s certainly no ‘old town vibe’, it’s just another busy and modern city. 

Tallinn 🇪🇪

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The journey to Tallinn on the Lux Express was super comfortable thanks to our extra leg room and recliner seats – it was definitely worth the extra money for the boujee section of the bus. The journey was smooth, aside from the police pulling us over and getting on to inspect everyone’s documents. Luckily all was well, and we arrived to a very dark and deserted bus station. Thank god for Bolt as we were literally in the arse end of nowhere! We got checked in, then Mark forced me out at gone 10pm to find a sports bar to support the mighty toon army in the Carabao Cup semi final. Although highly rated, the Unibet bar was nearly empty, but it meant we had a pick of the TVs and super speedy bar service. We also accidently ordered a huge plate of bar snacks…

After another hearty breakfast of meats and cheeses, we set out to explore Tallinn. Again, not heading to the old town first, but to Telliskivi Creative City – located in the Kalamaja neighbourhood in a former mechanic and locomotive factory. Very vibrant and edgy, this colourful part of town is also full of cafes, bars and independent shops. Urban photographers could literally spend hours here as there is art work and murals on every surface. Its also home to art festivals, concerts, comedy shows and experimental theatre during the warmer months. 

Next to Telliskivi is Balti Jaama Turg – once a typical soviet market, its now an impressive space selling local produce, with cafes and bars, street food, antiques and vintage clothes. Another place where plenty of time is needed to properly explore, and an extra suitcase for all the treasures you’d want to buy! We had a vastlakukkel (fresh bun filled with cream) from one of the vendors, and it was absolutely delicious. 

We headed over to Tallinn’s Old Town, and in contrast to Vilnius and Riga, it was quite bustling! There are many streets and passageways to explore, but as we were losing daylight, we knew we would have to save most of our exploration for the following day. We did manage to visit the impressive Alexander Nevsky Cathedral, located at the top of Toompea Hill. It is certainly one of the most unique architectural pieces in the city. Completed in 1900, when Estonia was part of the Russian Empire, the cathedral was built as part of the Russification policy in the 19th century, directly across from Toompea Castle to demonstrate Russian supremacy.

Just for a change, we fancied having a few beverages in some of Tallinn’s many pubs. First was Hell Hunt, for a plate of bar snacks, including pig tongue (very hammy, slightly tougher texture.. Actually very nice!) and a try of their vast selection of beers, and Mikkeller, because Mark loved it so much in Copenhagen. After being well watered, we headed over to the highly rated Olde Hansa, where you are transported to the medieval era. Think 15th-century merchant house, it has period décor, furniture, and even costumed staff who address you as lord and lady. Everything is by candlelight to try and keep it as authentic as possible. There’s even a traditional troubadour band on certain days, and we were lucky enough to have them playing for us. As our bellies were still full from the bar snacks, we opted to have a few small plates, and it was actually really tasty! We finished off with some schnapps, which were quite awful 🤣 even though its very very touristy thing to do and the food is pretty expensive, we really enjoyed the evening here and would highly recommend it.

The next morning we woke up to something we haven’t yet has on this trip.. Blue sky! We started the day by walking part of the city walls from Hellemann, where you are able to walk the longest section that is open to the public. The oldest part originates from the 13th century, and taking shape over the next three centuries, became the greatest and strongest defence system in Northern Europe. 

There are two viewpoints – Patkuli and Kohtuotsa – within very close proximity of each other that offer great views across the city. I just wish more people followed the photography etiquette of standing in a line to take the photo, and not just pushing in (just so British and love a queue) and then moving out the way once you’ve taken the photo. 

The oldest pharmacy – The oldest pharmacy in Europe that has continually operated on the same premises. It was first mentioned in town records in 1422. Unfortunately, the museum is currently closed for renovation works

Vitu gate – This was part of the defence system of the Tallinn city wall built in the 14th century, and is the main gateway into the old town from the new town. The gate is the only thing that remains standing from the previous wall, which was demolished in 1880.

We spent the rest of the day wandering around and getting lost in the cobbled streets, each turn full of charm and beauty – this is the best way to see the city, as you never know what is around the corner. 

As you know, we always like to try local things when travelling, and a google search suggested we tried Kohuke – a curd snack covered in chocolate. We got a few different options, but unfortunately, we did not find these a taste sensation. They were foul 🤣 and after one bite of each one, hoping one would at least be edible, we decided the correct place for them was in the bin. 

It was time to head back to the hotel ready for the final stretch of our travels – the ferry to Helsinki.

We’ve really enjoyed our time in Tallinn. Even though Estonia has the smallest population of the Baltic states, it definitely packs the biggest punch. We actually wished we had an extra day so we could take a trip to the frozen waterfall. Although the first impression at the bus stop was again, where the hell are we.. We soon changed our minds. It is one of the best preserved medieval cities, but has the perfect mix of old and new, as well as so many beautiful and colourful buildings, a vast range of bars, cafes and restaurants, and the locals even seem to enjoy the old town too! It also feels very Nordic, without the hefty Nordic price tag.

Riga 🇱🇻

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The journey to Riga on the Flixbus was surprisingly comfortable, although despite it being advertised, it didn’t come with charging points, WiFi or a toilet.. We did get the quickest wee stop at a Circle K, however I’m also not convinced he even checked everyone was back on-board 😂 in 4 hours we arrived, and got our first feel for Riga. The bus station had an interesting vibe, with some rather questionable characters hanging around, making our five-minute trek to the hotel feel a bit twitchy arse — late-night subway walks are never the most reassuring! But as soon as we stepped into our hotel lobby, we were welcomed by a glorious fragrance, and we headed up to check out our room for the next 2 nights. It was huge, with a separate room for clothes and cases, and floral wallpaper reminiscent of the early 00s. The only hiccup was discovering how close we were to the train line, with each passing train shaking the room like a mini earthquake. Despite this, we had a great sleep. 

We started off our day in Riga, not in the old town, but heading over the river to the Holy Trinity Orthodox Church. The route here is definitely not touristy and very much off the beaten track, but we actually loved that. It was abandoned and eerie at times, but it gave us a taste of local life. The church was completed in 1893, and the red belfry with striking blue domes can be seen from a fair distance away.  A short stroll from the church brought us to the Āgenskalns Market, the largest and oldest market in the neighbourhood, bustling with the rhythms of daily life. Split across two vibrant floors, the market was filled with an array of local produce, from fresh vegetables to artisanal bread, showcasing the best of Latvian ingredients. We had some delicious coffee, paired perfectly with a slice of wood-fired pizza. We walked back through the snow-covered Uzvaras (victory) park, which stands as a reminder of Latvia’s complex historical journey. Here is the ‘carved tree’ which is adorned with an array of intricate carvings, each telling a unique story that reflects the rich history and folklore of the region.

After crossing back across the river, we were eager to dive into the charm of the old town, only to discover it was completely deserted! So, we headed to one of the best viewpoints
at the top of St Peter’s Church. Although quite pricey at €9pp (the church itself isn’t worth spending time looking around), it’s definitely worth it for the retro staircase to the lift and the 360° views across the city. Plus, there’s no glass or mesh obstructing
your view, so you can capture those perfect photos without any hassle. The lift attendant however couldn’t be any less arsed about his paying guests 😂 Facebook is much more important. 

We strolled through another park to the Freedom Monument, prominenly situated at the entrance to the old town. It serves as a powerful symbol of Latvian statehood, reflecting the enduring values of national unity, independence, and freedom. At the base of the monument, a two-man honour guard stands vigil, a poignant representation of Latvia’s sovereignty and pride. We continued further to the gold domes of Nativity of Christ Orthodox Cathedral, the largest Orthodox cathedral in the Baltic provinces. It survived the Soviet era, and restoration efforts began in the 1990s, driven by a strong desire within the community to reclaim their heritage and spirituality, allowing it to become a sacred sanctuary once more. Despite the bitter cold cutting through our layers, we stayed to watch the locals do their tricks on the ice rink next to the cathedral, before heading back into town to find something to eat.

We had planned to just have drinks in ‘Two More Beers’, as a lot of the menu was very I’m a Celebrity (think pigs ears and bulls penis) but we managed to find ‘normal burgers’ on the menu, and ended up staying for nearly 3 hours whilst Mark made his way through their extensive beer selection. Due to the time of year, most of the pubs were dead, with only a small handful of people in them. We spotted a bar that was absolutely rammed, so decided to check out what was occurring. Turns out they were in the middle of a pub quiz, and we joined during the all important music round (between us, we got them all correct!). 

The following morning we spent exploring another neighbourhood. Lastadija is known as the artistic quarter and is a project of the Free Riga union – dedicated to breathing new life into abandoned houses and transforming them into hubs for cultural and artistic endeavors, as well as residential spaces. Just down the road is the Latvian Academy of Science building. This striking example of Soviet architecture that dominates the skyline is hated by the locals, as they refer to it as Stalin’s Birthday Cake. In contrast to this is the Annunciation of Our Most Holy Lady Church, with its exterior of gold and green. As this area is just a short walk from the central market, it’s definitely worth the detour. 

The Central Market is one of the largest in Eastern Europe, and the building was originally used as military airship hangars. It’s full of diverse and colourful produce, and I was looking forward to the smell of the fresh fruit and veg section. Unfortunately this is also shared with the fishmongers 🤢 potential unpopular opinion.. we preferred the Āgenskalns Market, but central is still worth the visit.

We headed over to Alberta Street, known as Riga’s Art Nouveu gem. The buildings are decorated with sculptures, balconies, columns, and other elements characteristic to this style. They survived World War II and decades of Soviet occupation, and you could definitely spend ages here just gazing up at the beautiful buildings.

We spent the rest of our time in Riga just wandering around the old town, and stopping for a delicious treat from Cruffins before the next leg of our trip. As a treat, I booked us extra leg room and extendable seats in the Lux Express to Tallinn.

So is Riga worth the visit? It’s full of history, beautiful buildings, a ridiculous amount of bars/restaurants, easy to get around on foot and it would definitely be a perfect Christmas market destination. However for the time of year we went, there just wasn’t really any atmosphere, and if was very much like a ghost town. The old town felt very geared to tourists, and around the train station felt very uncomfortable. But 48hrs was the perfect amount of time and we would defo recommend it.

Vilnius 🇱🇹

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What to do with 10 days off? Visit 4 different countries of course! We will be journeying through Lithuania, Latvia, Estonia and Finland – spending around 48 hours in each of their capital cities. 

The drive to Stansted was so pain free that we had a whole hour before we could get into the car park – look at us getting somewhere early! We used the time wisely by having a Subway and a Starbucks (still extortionate services prices, but at least not as insane as airport prices). The midstay car park was very reasonable with plenty of parking spaces, and after a 10 minute shuttle bus, we were at the terminal building ready to start our adventure. Security was empty – but unfortunately my boots kept setting off various machines. After multiple shoe swabs and leg frisks, I was eventually allowed into the Duty Free for the obligatory cheeky squirt of the most expensive perfume. We had a few beverages and a ridiculously expensive bowl of nachos in Spoons, before boarding the delight that is Ryanair for our flight to Vilnius.

Everything went very smoothly, and after grabbing our bags, we got a Bolt to our hotel where we spent the next 2 nights.

As Vilnius itself is quite small, for the first day we decided to take the bus to the well-preserved historical village of Trakai. The half hour bus, followed by a half hour walk past some bright coloured houses, makes it the perfect half day trip to the former capital of Lithuania. The main attractions is the island castle, and the cold, crisp, February Sunday also meant there was hardly any tourists about. As the snow began to fall, we crossed the wooden bridge to the castle standing proudly against the backdrop of winter. Whilst we could have ventured inside, we opted to explore the outside castle grounds instead. We could only imagine how the lake would transform into a watersport hotspot in the summer, but on this chilly day, it was a tranquil haven for a few local ducks. As the temperature continued to drop, we popped into a cafe for some hot wine, a beer, and of course, sample their homemade specialities of kibinai and honey cake. We headed back to the bus stop, but unfortunately didn’t realise the bus we had planned was weekday only.. Leaving us time to mooch around the local supermarket whilst we waited for the next one.

We always have a keen eye for weird and wonderful street art in the different places we visit, and just a short walk from the bus station is the Open Gallery. Open all year round, it has more than 50 pieces of art, and being located by a steel factory gives it that edgy and atmospheric vibe. 

On our way back to the hotel, we decided to pop into the 2D cafe, located in the Museum of Illusion. Usually these sort of places are all about the Insta or Tiktok, but the coffee and cake was actually very nice! 

We love trying traditional food when we travel, so we were buzzing to find a restaurant that offered a sharing plate full of local dishes! The Farmers Feast was a treat, featuring potato dumplings, crispy potato pancakes, potato wedges (can you see the theme 😂), along with succulent sausages, smoked pork, and stewed cabbage. All of that for just €25! It was mostly a fantastic meal, though we did find the potato-stuffed baked sausage a bit of a letdown—it just didn’t do it for us. 

To finish off the evening, we had some drinks in a cute little bar whilst watching the following scene unfold: Hamilton and his 65-year-old dad trying their best to charm a couple of young Lithuanian women. The dad was really going for it with lines like, “I used to be a rock climber, so I’m good with my hands and know how to use rope!” Here’s hoping they managed to escape…

The next morning we woke up to a blanket of the white stuff! So we donned our warm clothes and headed out to explore Vilnius in the snow. But first, a trip to the opticians to get a contact lens pot for Mark. She didn’t speak English, and Mark doesn’t speak Lithuanian. Luckily, they both appreciate a game of Charades, and she soon realised what he was after.

Three Crosses Hill – a prominent monument often illuminated in different colours to commemorate Lithuanian special events. Also great views across the city.

Gediminas’ Hill – one of the highest points in Vilnius old town with views over the Neris River. Didn’t realise there was a funicular to the top.. Fuming 😂

Cathedral square – home to the cathedral and bell tower. The cathedral is neoclassical style, resembling a Greek temple, and the tower is one of the cities oldest brick buildings. There is also the memorial plaque which marks the end of the longest ever human chain – in 1989, approximately two million people joined hands across Lithuania, Latvia and Estonia to make the Baltic Way.

Užupis – the smallest district in Vilnius. On 1st April 1997, Užupis declared independence, and since then, the community celebrates independence day every year on April Fools Day. An independent republic has to have money, power, an anthem and constitution, and above all, a free spirit. You will find all of this in Užupis.

Literatų street – a short, narrow street mostly known for public display of decorative and artistic plaques. These are dedicated to writers who have lived and worked in Vilnius or otherwise have shared a connection with Vilnius and Lithuania.

There’s a wealth of churches in Vilnius – 28 in the old town alone! Here is a selection…

It was time to head back to the hotel, grab the cases and get a Bolt to the coach station, ready to catch the Flixbus to Riga. 

If you find yourself with a few days off and are seeking an adventure with affordable flights to a budget-friendly city, consider adding Vilnius to your itinerary. It may not boast traditional beauty, but it certainly possesses a unique charm all its own. The city is clean, and while the locals might not have seemed particularly ‘warm’ towards us—perhaps influenced by their own history—we always felt a sense of safety wandering the streets. It’s a reminder of how different places can shape our experiences in unexpected ways.

Porto Day 2 🇵🇹

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Our prayers were answered as we woke up to glorious weather. With the sun shining, we quickly adjusted our plans to revisit some of the stunning churches from yesterday, as the blue sky would really make the tiles pop. 

The Cat – a bright blue painted one, and a real ginger one. Obviously he deserved a bit of money as we couldn’t see him go hungry! Unfortunately the Cat Momma hadn’t seen my Momma put her money in, and started telling her off for taking a photo and ‘not paying’. Despite her earnest attempts to communicate (by repeatedly pointing at the coins and herself) the lady remained unconvinced, and carried on muttering to herself as we walked off (if only we could understand Portuguese!)

Livraria Lello – another ‘most beautiful’ and this time it’s a bookshop. Thanks to Instagram and TikTok, its popularity has skyrocketed, fueled by rumors that JK Rowling found inspiration for Harry Potter here (even though she has said multiples times that this isn’t true, she’s never even visited!) The entry fee of €8 is credited towards a book purchase, and we secured our timed tickets. Once inside you get the glorious scent of an old book shop, as well as by an art nouveau staircase and colorful stained glass above. However, it was absolutely rammed inside, with everyone trying to get that perfect candid shot. Whilst it truly felt like stepping into Hogwarts, the throngs of people made it hard to fully appreciate the architecture or browse the books—especially with prices soaring three times higher than at Waterstones!

Majestic Cafe – the one where JK definitely went! It’s adorned with antique mirrors, marble sculptures, and an intricately decorated ceiling, making this Art Nouveau gem a feast for the eyes. We were very lucky as we didn’t have to queue at all, but with such an iconic cafe comes an eye-watering price. But we still settled in for a hot drink and pastel de nata while indulging in some people-watching.

With our bellies full, we made our way back to the bridge, ready to cross over to Gaia—the heart of port wine since the 17th century. There was a group of lads lads lads getting ready to jump off the bridge, so of course Momma got ready to take a photo. Cue the non-jumping friend shaking a plastic cup for some Euros. Momma informed him she wasn’t taking a photo of the jumper.. but he definitely knew this was a massive fib! Gaia has over 60 port cellars in the area and 20 open to the public, and it was time for some tastings. Even though Momma doesn’t drink, I managed to coax her into a spot of day drinking, and we enjoyed a Sandeman whilst overlooking the Douro River. We explored Taylor’s, Cockburn’s, and Cálem, marveling at their extensive port collections and gift shops. And of course, we took advantage of their complimentary toilet facilities! We had planned of going on the cable car for some panoramic views, but obviously this was down for maintenance…

Half rabbit – made from recycled materials and rubbish collected from the city. Positioned at the corner of a building, one half is a burst of colors, whilst the other displays the original hues of the materials – hence the name ‘Half Rabbit’. We walked past this quite a few times whilst exploring Gaia, and we couldn’t resist pausing to admire this creative masterpiece!

Sunset – we had planned to watch the sunset from Jardim do Moro, but the overwhelming scent of weed sent us walking up a hill to a nearby monastery instead. We found the perfect spot and positioned ourselves ready to watch the sun go down. Momma then had a tap on the shoulder, and was given the universal sign of ‘can you move, we want to get in’. She definitely wanted to give them the universal sign to ‘f off’, but instead politely declined, telling them we had been there ages. The sunset might not have been the most spectacular, but it was still a nice moment to reflect on our lovely few days in Porto.

Time Out Porto – the ultimate solution when you have no idea what you want to eat. There were lots of fantastic food stalls, and if you love fish, then this is the place to go. If you’re like us and fish is your idea of hell, there are still plenty of options. We had the most delicious pizza and mushroom risotto.

Goodbye Porto – our final morning, and as we prepared to say goodbye to Porto, we squeezed in a few final church visits and a stroll along the river. Of course, we couldn’t leave without one last pastel de nata from the renowned Castro! The Uber ride to the airport was smooth sailing, and all was going well with getting home until a security mishap: I completely forgot about the Um Bongo in my bag! Cue a bollocking from the security lady.

Porto is a perfect ‘48hr city’, and could definitely be done as an extreme day trip. There are lots of hills to climb, but it’s so compact meaning it’s very easy to get about and see everything. From churches to Nata’s on every corner, it is definitely one to add to your list!

Porto Day 1 🇵🇹

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A few days off work means it’s time for a city break! This time, Momma Wood is joining me for a trip to Porto – the second largest city in Portugal. Since we had a late flight from Manchester, we decided to arrive in the area early to explore Quarry Bank Mill, a National Trust site. It’s one of Britain’s greatest industrial heritage sites, featuring a rare surviving eighteenth-century cotton mill surrounded by 400 acres of beautiful woodland and countryside along the River Bollin. There was so much to see, and the two hours we had really wasn’t enough. With a latte in hand (after some not-so-subtle glares at the queue-jumpers) we headed to the mill. There’s 5 different floors to explore, and it offers an immersive and informative experience, with so much machinery and live demonstrations by volunteers. We also had a mooch along the river and soaked up the last of the autumnal colours before heading back to the car for the short drive to terminal 3.

After driving around for ages, we finally found a space in the car park and made our way to the terminal building. Security was surprisingly quick, except for the woman in front of me who had to take out 1001 items from her coat pocket. We had our obligatory cheeky squirt of the most expensive perfume in duty-free, and smelling like a tart’s fart, set out to find some food. We opted for a burger in the pub and ended up sitting next to a very inebriated guy who was excitedly slurring that he had never been on a plane before. I wouldn’t be surprised if that remains the case for him! Our flight was (obviously) delayed by half an hour, but all was well as we know how a Ryanair pilot likes to put their foot down, and we landed on time. Momma seemed to be taking a while at passport control, but was delighted to tell me that it was because the officer at the desk thought she looked younger than her photo—what a flirt!

Thanks to my Genius level on Booking.com, I managed to arrange a free transfer from the airport. The lovely Eduardo picked us up in his massive Mercedes and took us to our hotel. It took us a while to figure out how to get inside (as doors are locked after 8pm) but we were buzzed in and greeted by the most enthusiastic receptionist, who was excited to share all the wonderful things Porto has to offer. He even showed us on the map where he was born! It was refreshing to see someone who truly loves their job. We settled into our room, indulged in our complimentary Nata, and caught up with “Strictly” before heading to bed, ready for a full day of exploration ahead.

We had packed for the glorious forecast of 22° and sunshine. But lo and behold, we woke up to a thick blanket of fog, rain, and a chilly 14°. After demolishing all the cheese and ham at breakfast, we donned our warmest clothes and set out in search of an umbrella. Luckily, we found one at a souvenir shop for €5. I opted for a jumpsuit, but as it’s a Cider special and made for someone who’s 6ft, wearing it in the rain turned into a soggy adventure as the long legs soaked up half of Porto. A quick outfit change back at the hotel was therefore required into something a bit less absorbent. Momma was serving Asda realness as she paraded around in her bright green poncho.

São Bento – the train station that is currently surrounded by lots of construction. Inside, the walls are covered by 20,000 painted tiles, by Jorge Colaço, which illustrate episodes from the History of Portugal. It opened in 1916 and is considered one of the most beautiful train stations in the world.

Igreja de Santo Ildefonso – an 18th century baroque style church, with approximately 11,000 azulejo tiles covering the façade. Momma was getting incredibly annoyed at the amount of people who just walked in front of her while trying to take a photo!

Chapel of Souls – definitely in a tile-counting competition with the previous church, boasting around 16,000 tiles covering the façade. Our plan to take shelter inside was slightly thwarted as we were crammed into the back and rather close to the flickering candles—making us somewhat concerned about how flammable Momma was!

The Twin Churches – between the two churches of Carmo and Carmelitas lies the narrowest building in the city. This tiny house was built to make all contact between the nuns and the monks impossible. Another particularly difficult photo stop – at least we can now erase people from pictures 😉

Miradouro da Vitória – a free viewpoint of the city and full of edgy graffiti. This added an artsy touch to the place making it a fascinating spot to explore. Reviews suggest that it is usually rammed here, so at least the gloomy day came in handy!

Chocolataria das Flores – now feeling peckish, we found this little café down a side street. We placed our order, which arrived with the addition of a (very dry) giant chocolate cookie. As we don’t speak Portuguese, and they didn’t speak particularly good English, we decided against questioning the additional treat. Especially as we noticed other tables had one too. Unfortunately, this wasn’t a complimentary snack and we did have to pay for it. 

Porto Cathedral – one of the city’s oldest and most important local Romanesque monuments. Adjoining the cathedral are the cloisters, and the architectural style is quite eclectic. It’s decorated with Baroque azulejos representing the life of the Virgin Mary. Underneath the poncho, Momma was rocking Portuguese tile chic and blended in nicely. 

Ponte de Dom Luis I – the most famous bridge in Porto, with the mastermind behind its design being a protege of the famed Gustave Eiffel! It has an upper and lower deck and spans along the world-famous Douro River, and as we had a bit of time to kill before our exciting evening plans, we decided to take a stroll along the upper deck. There wasn’t a dramatic sunset, but the twinkling lights across Porto & Gaia still made it very atmospheric.

Fado – this evening I booked an absolute treat! A glass of Port and a Fado show. Momma wasn’t initially keen, but at 13 quid each, it would be silly to not experience this. Fado is a traditional Portuguese folk music genre known for its soulful melodies, expressive vocals, and melancholic character, and often reflect themes of lost sailors, broken hearts, bittersweet romance, fate, reunions, and the passage of time. The musicians were fantastic and the singer had an impressive set of pipes. It’s hard not to feel touched by the performance, even though we had no idea what she was singing. Considering this was the first time they had all sang/played together, they really did put on an excellent show.. although we both agreed that an hour was long enough.

Mcdonald’s – said to be one of the most beautiful McDonald’s in the world, we obviously had to check it out. The Golden Arches took over in 1995 in the space previously occupied by a famous Portuguese coffee shop, which was an icon in the 1930s. The building retained many of the original Art Deco features including the ornate ceilings, chandeliers, and a large stained glass wall, and along with the giant eagle at the entrance makes it the poshest I’ve ever visited! They had a great selection of different food (although lukewarm) and the whole place was so clean. We also realised that we are both obviously lovers of green patterned trousers…

We’ve had an incredibly packed first day in Porto! Here’s hoping tomorrow treats us to blue skies…

Luxembourg Day 3 🇱🇺

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We woke up this morning to the weather we are usually blessed with on our adventures… rain. We had planned to explore the Mullerthal Region today, which is referred to as Luxembourg’s little Switzerland, however we hadn’t really packed for wet weather, and decided it would just end being a soggy and miserable day. Instead, we went for breakfast at one of the highest rated spots. Obviously, when we got there, every table was full; the majority with cool young hipsters and their laptops who clearly had no plans to move all day. Luckily, a table of mature ladies vacated, so we dived straight in. Whilst the latte was a massive letdown, the food made up for it and set us on our way for a day of cafe hopping.

Walking tour Ken had recommended the Chocolate House for its delicious hot chocolate and perfect view of the guards outside the Grand Ducal Palace. We got there as the rain had stopped, so we were able to get a seat outside. There are so many different flavours of hot chocolate to choose from. Mark chose orange, but unfortunately, he had to say pardon 3 times when the waitress asked if he wanted dark or milk. When he eventually realised what she was asking, he went with milk, but she had other ideas and gave him dark instead.

Another recommendation we had been given was Bock Casemates – a subterranean defence system made up of kilometres of tunnels and one of the most important visitor sites in Luxembourg. It’s an inside activity, so perfect for a soggy day! During the two World Wars, the Bock Casemates (and those of the Pétrusse valley) served as a shelter with the capacity to protect 35,000 people in the event of a bombardment. It’s an interesting site to walk around and also gives you alternative views across the city. Luckily, these tunnels are a lot bigger and wider than the ones we visited in Vietnam! As there was a break in the rain and feeling a little snackish, we popped to Ladurée for some overpriced drinks and super tasty macaron. The rain break didn’t last long, and accompanied by lots of thunder, it began again.

When we booked this trip, we had no idea of the significance of the 22nd/23rd June to Luxembourg. The 23rd is National Day – a day to celebrate the Grand Duke’s birthday, but celebrations get underway on the 22nd. It all begins with the traditional changing of the guard in front of the Grand Ducal Palace, with the participation of an honorary detachment from the Luxembourg Army. The Luxembourg Military Band also provided musical entertainment, including ACDC Highway to Hell! We managed to get a really good spot to watch everything, but felt very out of place without a Luxembourg flag to wave.

The evening celebrations was a DJ set by Flavour Trip, Wade (nope.. no clue either!) and Lost Frequencies. As this didn’t kick off until later, we decided to pass some time by visiting a cat cafe. The first one we visited in Prague was a bit of a disaster as a cat piddled all over my scarf! Luckily no such event happened this time. We were surrounded by lots of fabulous kitties who were very interested in trying to lick the cream out of Mark’s milkshake. Just before we left, the owner gave us some treats to give them, and they all came running. Actual cat heaven.

The forecast for the evening was poor, so we decided packed our umbrellas. As we got bag searched to go into ‘City Sounds’ we were told we were not allowed to take umbrellas in, and to leave them by the entrance in a giant umbrella pile. I’ll give you one guess as to whether they were still there when we left 🙄 we got some food, beer and wine and got our spot ready for Lost Frequencies. The heavens decided to open just as the set began, and everyone around us got their umbrellas out!! Absolutely fuming! Luckily I had the wanker hat. The main event of the 22nd is the firework display – one of the biggest in Europe. We piled onto the tram with 1000s of others and got to the viewing area. There was so much pushing and shoving, and we ended up being stuck behind a tree. Although we had a slightly reduced view, the fireworks were INCREDIBLE. There are so many great places to watch the fireworks, so getting there early is a must.

We had seen all the bars getting ready earlier in the day for the huge street parties which kick off after the fireworks, so were keen to check them out. Unfortunately being 5ft2 in a crowd isn’t the best, and I hated every minute of being squashed, shoved and trodden on. It really was hell. Although the atmosphere was great; the drinks were massively overpriced and it was impossible to move, so we decided to head back to the hotel. On the way back through the square where we had met Ken, we discovered lots of space, a great DJ and cheap drinks. So we were able to enjoy some of the party vibes with the locals.

Luxembourg Day 1 🇱🇺

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The alarms were set for a super early start this morning as our flight was from Heathrow, and to save us nearly £100, we chose to use Purple Parking rather than park at the airport. Luckily Mark’s parents are around an hour away from Heathrow (one of the reasons I swiped for him haha) which makes the journey there a slightly easier one. Purple Parking is super easy to use and would 100% recommend them (pending car collection!). We hopped onto the shuttle bus and arrived at T3 in around 10 minutes. We got into the queue for bag check, but it soon became apparent that we were in the queue for American Airlines instead! This seems to be a common mistake as others soon followed us to the correct check in area next door. We whizzed through security, and this meant we had over 2hrs in departures! We went to Spuntino for breakfast, which for airport standards was actually very good. And of course, a breakfast pudding from Nero 😋 we made our way to our gate, and then came the dreaded announcement.. a flight delay! The tannoy stated “there has been a big accident on the tarmac meaning the crew can’t get to the plane. Fire are in attendance”. This made it sound very dramatic, however after around 20 mins, we were allowed on the plane. Then came the next bit of news.. we’ve missed our slot and Luxembourg is too foggy to land in, so we’re being put into a ‘holding bay’ until we could take off. After nearly 45 minutes here we were able to take off, for the super lengthy one hour flight. The best thing about flying BA, is even though it has taken me longer to drive to Birmingham, you still get a free drink and snack from them.

One of the great things about Luxembourg, is all public transport is free! Even for tourists. Getting from the airport to the city centre is super easy on the bus, and we were really fortunate that our room was ready early when we arrived at the hotel. After a quick swill and a change of clothes, we headed out to see what Luxembourg had to offer. One of the first things we noticed was how clean the place is, but that could be to do with the amount of bins there is.

The many bins in the park

To get another UNESCO ticked off the app, we headed to the old quarter and fortifications. We walked along The Chemin de la Corniche, which is said to be “Europe’s most beautiful balcony”. I’ts clear to see why.. the views are absolutely stunning. We strolled along some the passage ways down to the waters edge of the Alzette to get a closer look at the bridges and architecture. It can only be described as like something out of a fairytale, and is the perfect place for a bit of peace in the middle of bustling city.

As we know absolutely nothing about Luxembourg, we decided to book a walking tour, with the added bonus of wine tasting. As we had around 20 mins before we met the group, we decided to have a drink. From the very minimal research we did before coming, most of the reviews and blogs say service is slow and waiting staff are VERY rude. We sat outside a cafe and got completely ignored by the waitress, and after a good 5 minutes of no interaction, we got up and left. As we were now running low on time and getting dryer by the minute, we decided on swinging by maccies to get a drink from there (don’t worry, we will be visiting properly tomorrow as part of our Maccies World Tour.) We headed to the meeting point where we met some fabulous gays from the group, an American and an Aussie who are living together in The Hague! The tour guide however was nowhere to be seen, and we eventually got comms that the previous walk was taking a while, meaning ours was going to be delayed. The boys recommended a bar just around the corner, so we popped there to kill some time, and luckily the service there was good, with a great selection of beer.

We headed back to meet the group and our tour guide, Ken. A very enthusiastic chap who is born here and lived here his whole life. We learnt that by the age of 16, most people in Luxembourg can speak French, German and Luxembourgish, and large proportion can speak English. In fact a lot of locals here can speak 7 different languages! We walked around cute squares, saw the Cathedral and Grand Ducal Palace, the Pont Adolphe Bridge, and once again, the Corniche. Luxembourg is the 2nd richest country in the world and has the highest minimum wage in the EU. This is why so many people from the bordering countries come to work here, hense why so many languages are learnt and spoken by locals. It’s also the only Grand Duchy in the world, and we’ve accidentally planned our trip around the Grand Dukes official birthday – but more about that later! We tried 2 wines, one of which was Crémant de Luxembourg, a quality sparkling wine. Both were delicious. We don’t really ever do walking tours, but this one was really enjoyable, so will probably do more of these in the future. We booked through Get Your Guide.

This evening we decided to go slightly out of town to a highly rated tapas restaurant. And I have to say, the ham croquettes and patatas bravas were probably the best we’ve ever had. Even beating Barcelona! Although a relatively pricey meal, it was worth it. We walked back into town to have a drink overlooking the valley, and this was the perfect end to the day.