Tag: City break

Seville 🇪🇸

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After our winter sun trip to Porto last year, we decided to catch some November sunshine again, this time in Seville. We had an early morning flight from Luton, and by 14:30 we were checked into our hotel and ready to explore the city. Over the next two and a half days, we walked nearly 12 miles each day, and despite some weather related disappointment (it wouldn’t be a me holiday without it!), we saw most of what Seville has to offer.

Plaza de España One of the most popular spots in Seville, Plaza de España was built in 1928 and underwent a major restoration in 2010. Its sweeping semi-circular design symbolizes Spain embracing its former colonies, and the canal represents the ocean connecting Spain to the Americas. Normally, you’ll see people lazily rowing boats along the water, with gorgeous reflections dancing everywhere. Unfortunately for us, they drained it for cleaning, so we were left with concrete and duck poo. Despite that, stunning detail covers almost every inch of the plaza, blending Moorish, Renaissance and Spanish architectural styles. You can easily spend hours here listening to musicians and watching Tiktokers in the wild.

On our second day we had a huge downpour, but that meant we could return and use the remaining rainwater to capture some beautiful reflections. 

Maria Luisa Park It’s not just about Plaza de España, there are so many other things to see in the park.

  • Gustavo Adolfo Becquer Monument – representing the different aspects of love. Locals and tourists leave love letters, prayers, dreams, and poems in the marble bookshelf.
  • Plaza de America – featuring neo-Gothic, neo-Mudejar, and neo-Renaissance buildings. There are also a few cafes at this end of the park.
  • Jardín De Los Leones – pretty walkways and water features, as well as the Gurugú Mount Waterfall.

Flamenco Seville, and especially the neighborhood of Triana, is considered the birthplace of flamenco, so seeing a show here is basically non-negotiable. There are loads of options, from casual street performances to intimate shows in dedicated flamenco venues. We chose Baraka in Triana because it had lots of 5* reviews and, crucially, included a glass of sangria.

The performance was incredible. The dancer is accompanied by a singer, a guitarist, and sharp, rhythmic clapping. No microphones, no amplifiers, just pure, powerful sound and emotion. Even though we couldn’t understand the lyrics, the story of love, loss, and longing came through so clearly. At one point a group of people started talking, and the guitarist literally stopped mid-performance and stared them down until they went silent.

We also caught some flamenco performers at Plaza de España, which is a great option if you’re short on time. Just make sure to throw a few euros their way.

Real Alcázar The Real Alcázar is the oldest royal palace in Spain that’s still in use today, and it’s been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1987. It’s one of Seville’s most popular attractions, so pre-booking tickets is essential.

Think stunning gardens, water features and peacocks roaming the grounds. Unfortunately, on the day we visited, there was a storm forecast for later in the afternoon, so they decided to close the entire garden area. They also didn’t mention this until you were already inside, and the only notice was a sign on an A4 sheet of paper. Cue many bewildered and mildly furious visitors. And because tickets were sold out for the next five days, most people didn’t have the option to come back.

Even so, there’s still plenty to explore inside, and you can access some outdoor courtyards. Which makes the garden closure even more confusing, especially since the rain didn’t show up until much later.. Palace politics! I thought I’d try my luck with a cheeky complaint to Get Your Guide, and they very kindly gave us a partial refund.

Cathedral  Seville Cathedral is the world’s largest Gothic cathedral and a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and is home to the iconic La Giralda bell tower.

We started our visit by climbing La Giralda, and to our surprise, it wasn’t the usual endless spiral staircase. Instead, it’s a series of sloping ramps leading all the way to the top. This design allowed the muezzin, who once called the faithful to prayer, to ride up on horseback. A much more dignified way of arriving than being sweaty and out of breath.

Inside the cathedral, you’ll find the remains of Christopher Columbus, the vast main chapel with the largest altarpiece in the world, an orange tree courtyard (although not actually orange for us), and the Royal Chapel where Spanish monarchs are laid to rest.

There’s also a strict dress code, which is why we were very baffled to see someone wandering around wearing a t-shirt with “The F Word” printed boldly across the back.

Setas de Sevilla

Nicknamed the mushroom of Seville, Las Setas opened in 2011 and is the largest wooden structure in the world. On top, there’s a winding walkway and terrace that offer panoramic views across the city, making it one of the best spots to watch the sunset.

We timed our visit so we could see the skyline in daylight, then at sunset, and finally at night during the Aurora light show. The only hiccup was actually finding the entrance, which turned out to be -1 level, and not level 1 as the ticket suggested. We ended up wandering around the plaza in circles and nearly missed our time slot.

Our hotel was right next to Las Setas, so we got to admire the giant shroom every day.

Get lost Like most European cities, the best way to experience Seville is simply to wander and get lost in its maze of streets. You’ll find picture-perfect cobblestones, tapas bars on nearly every corner, murals painted on shuttered shop fronts, and balconies overflowing with flowerpots. Always remember to look up.

Because we were there on a Thursday, we were able to explore the local flea market. It was genuinely painful to be travelling with only hand luggage, because we could have bought so much. And if flea markets aren’t enough temptation, Seville is packed with vintage shops too, each one luring you in with that distinctive smell and window displays.

Food and drink  Seville has so many tapas bars that trying to recommend specific ones feels impossible. We ended up in one right opposite Las Setas, and another tucked away in a small square. Both were great… aside from the “sucking lamb” ravioli, which unfortunately looked like the chef had chewed it first and then lovingly spat it back in. The flavour was intensely lamb-y. I didn’t mind it, but Mum gagged.

We also enjoyed chocolate and churros, and found some lovely cafés for coffee, cake, and brunch. You’re truly spoilt for choice here. There are food markets too, where we grabbed an outrageously cheesy pizza, and rooftop bars perfect for sipping cocktails while taking in the city views.

Tallinn 🇪🇪

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The journey to Tallinn on the Lux Express was super comfortable thanks to our extra leg room and recliner seats – it was definitely worth the extra money for the boujee section of the bus. The journey was smooth, aside from the police pulling us over and getting on to inspect everyone’s documents. Luckily all was well, and we arrived to a very dark and deserted bus station. Thank god for Bolt as we were literally in the arse end of nowhere! We got checked in, then Mark forced me out at gone 10pm to find a sports bar to support the mighty toon army in the Carabao Cup semi final. Although highly rated, the Unibet bar was nearly empty, but it meant we had a pick of the TVs and super speedy bar service. We also accidently ordered a huge plate of bar snacks…

After another hearty breakfast of meats and cheeses, we set out to explore Tallinn. Again, not heading to the old town first, but to Telliskivi Creative City – located in the Kalamaja neighbourhood in a former mechanic and locomotive factory. Very vibrant and edgy, this colourful part of town is also full of cafes, bars and independent shops. Urban photographers could literally spend hours here as there is art work and murals on every surface. Its also home to art festivals, concerts, comedy shows and experimental theatre during the warmer months. 

Next to Telliskivi is Balti Jaama Turg – once a typical soviet market, its now an impressive space selling local produce, with cafes and bars, street food, antiques and vintage clothes. Another place where plenty of time is needed to properly explore, and an extra suitcase for all the treasures you’d want to buy! We had a vastlakukkel (fresh bun filled with cream) from one of the vendors, and it was absolutely delicious. 

We headed over to Tallinn’s Old Town, and in contrast to Vilnius and Riga, it was quite bustling! There are many streets and passageways to explore, but as we were losing daylight, we knew we would have to save most of our exploration for the following day. We did manage to visit the impressive Alexander Nevsky Cathedral, located at the top of Toompea Hill. It is certainly one of the most unique architectural pieces in the city. Completed in 1900, when Estonia was part of the Russian Empire, the cathedral was built as part of the Russification policy in the 19th century, directly across from Toompea Castle to demonstrate Russian supremacy.

Just for a change, we fancied having a few beverages in some of Tallinn’s many pubs. First was Hell Hunt, for a plate of bar snacks, including pig tongue (very hammy, slightly tougher texture.. Actually very nice!) and a try of their vast selection of beers, and Mikkeller, because Mark loved it so much in Copenhagen. After being well watered, we headed over to the highly rated Olde Hansa, where you are transported to the medieval era. Think 15th-century merchant house, it has period décor, furniture, and even costumed staff who address you as lord and lady. Everything is by candlelight to try and keep it as authentic as possible. There’s even a traditional troubadour band on certain days, and we were lucky enough to have them playing for us. As our bellies were still full from the bar snacks, we opted to have a few small plates, and it was actually really tasty! We finished off with some schnapps, which were quite awful 🤣 even though its very very touristy thing to do and the food is pretty expensive, we really enjoyed the evening here and would highly recommend it.

The next morning we woke up to something we haven’t yet has on this trip.. Blue sky! We started the day by walking part of the city walls from Hellemann, where you are able to walk the longest section that is open to the public. The oldest part originates from the 13th century, and taking shape over the next three centuries, became the greatest and strongest defence system in Northern Europe. 

There are two viewpoints – Patkuli and Kohtuotsa – within very close proximity of each other that offer great views across the city. I just wish more people followed the photography etiquette of standing in a line to take the photo, and not just pushing in (just so British and love a queue) and then moving out the way once you’ve taken the photo. 

The oldest pharmacy – The oldest pharmacy in Europe that has continually operated on the same premises. It was first mentioned in town records in 1422. Unfortunately, the museum is currently closed for renovation works

Vitu gate – This was part of the defence system of the Tallinn city wall built in the 14th century, and is the main gateway into the old town from the new town. The gate is the only thing that remains standing from the previous wall, which was demolished in 1880.

We spent the rest of the day wandering around and getting lost in the cobbled streets, each turn full of charm and beauty – this is the best way to see the city, as you never know what is around the corner. 

As you know, we always like to try local things when travelling, and a google search suggested we tried Kohuke – a curd snack covered in chocolate. We got a few different options, but unfortunately, we did not find these a taste sensation. They were foul 🤣 and after one bite of each one, hoping one would at least be edible, we decided the correct place for them was in the bin. 

It was time to head back to the hotel ready for the final stretch of our travels – the ferry to Helsinki.

We’ve really enjoyed our time in Tallinn. Even though Estonia has the smallest population of the Baltic states, it definitely packs the biggest punch. We actually wished we had an extra day so we could take a trip to the frozen waterfall. Although the first impression at the bus stop was again, where the hell are we.. We soon changed our minds. It is one of the best preserved medieval cities, but has the perfect mix of old and new, as well as so many beautiful and colourful buildings, a vast range of bars, cafes and restaurants, and the locals even seem to enjoy the old town too! It also feels very Nordic, without the hefty Nordic price tag.

Riga 🇱🇻

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The journey to Riga on the Flixbus was surprisingly comfortable, although despite it being advertised, it didn’t come with charging points, WiFi or a toilet.. We did get the quickest wee stop at a Circle K, however I’m also not convinced he even checked everyone was back on-board 😂 in 4 hours we arrived, and got our first feel for Riga. The bus station had an interesting vibe, with some rather questionable characters hanging around, making our five-minute trek to the hotel feel a bit twitchy arse — late-night subway walks are never the most reassuring! But as soon as we stepped into our hotel lobby, we were welcomed by a glorious fragrance, and we headed up to check out our room for the next 2 nights. It was huge, with a separate room for clothes and cases, and floral wallpaper reminiscent of the early 00s. The only hiccup was discovering how close we were to the train line, with each passing train shaking the room like a mini earthquake. Despite this, we had a great sleep. 

We started off our day in Riga, not in the old town, but heading over the river to the Holy Trinity Orthodox Church. The route here is definitely not touristy and very much off the beaten track, but we actually loved that. It was abandoned and eerie at times, but it gave us a taste of local life. The church was completed in 1893, and the red belfry with striking blue domes can be seen from a fair distance away.  A short stroll from the church brought us to the Āgenskalns Market, the largest and oldest market in the neighbourhood, bustling with the rhythms of daily life. Split across two vibrant floors, the market was filled with an array of local produce, from fresh vegetables to artisanal bread, showcasing the best of Latvian ingredients. We had some delicious coffee, paired perfectly with a slice of wood-fired pizza. We walked back through the snow-covered Uzvaras (victory) park, which stands as a reminder of Latvia’s complex historical journey. Here is the ‘carved tree’ which is adorned with an array of intricate carvings, each telling a unique story that reflects the rich history and folklore of the region.

After crossing back across the river, we were eager to dive into the charm of the old town, only to discover it was completely deserted! So, we headed to one of the best viewpoints
at the top of St Peter’s Church. Although quite pricey at €9pp (the church itself isn’t worth spending time looking around), it’s definitely worth it for the retro staircase to the lift and the 360° views across the city. Plus, there’s no glass or mesh obstructing
your view, so you can capture those perfect photos without any hassle. The lift attendant however couldn’t be any less arsed about his paying guests 😂 Facebook is much more important. 

We strolled through another park to the Freedom Monument, prominenly situated at the entrance to the old town. It serves as a powerful symbol of Latvian statehood, reflecting the enduring values of national unity, independence, and freedom. At the base of the monument, a two-man honour guard stands vigil, a poignant representation of Latvia’s sovereignty and pride. We continued further to the gold domes of Nativity of Christ Orthodox Cathedral, the largest Orthodox cathedral in the Baltic provinces. It survived the Soviet era, and restoration efforts began in the 1990s, driven by a strong desire within the community to reclaim their heritage and spirituality, allowing it to become a sacred sanctuary once more. Despite the bitter cold cutting through our layers, we stayed to watch the locals do their tricks on the ice rink next to the cathedral, before heading back into town to find something to eat.

We had planned to just have drinks in ‘Two More Beers’, as a lot of the menu was very I’m a Celebrity (think pigs ears and bulls penis) but we managed to find ‘normal burgers’ on the menu, and ended up staying for nearly 3 hours whilst Mark made his way through their extensive beer selection. Due to the time of year, most of the pubs were dead, with only a small handful of people in them. We spotted a bar that was absolutely rammed, so decided to check out what was occurring. Turns out they were in the middle of a pub quiz, and we joined during the all important music round (between us, we got them all correct!). 

The following morning we spent exploring another neighbourhood. Lastadija is known as the artistic quarter and is a project of the Free Riga union – dedicated to breathing new life into abandoned houses and transforming them into hubs for cultural and artistic endeavors, as well as residential spaces. Just down the road is the Latvian Academy of Science building. This striking example of Soviet architecture that dominates the skyline is hated by the locals, as they refer to it as Stalin’s Birthday Cake. In contrast to this is the Annunciation of Our Most Holy Lady Church, with its exterior of gold and green. As this area is just a short walk from the central market, it’s definitely worth the detour. 

The Central Market is one of the largest in Eastern Europe, and the building was originally used as military airship hangars. It’s full of diverse and colourful produce, and I was looking forward to the smell of the fresh fruit and veg section. Unfortunately this is also shared with the fishmongers 🤢 potential unpopular opinion.. we preferred the Āgenskalns Market, but central is still worth the visit.

We headed over to Alberta Street, known as Riga’s Art Nouveu gem. The buildings are decorated with sculptures, balconies, columns, and other elements characteristic to this style. They survived World War II and decades of Soviet occupation, and you could definitely spend ages here just gazing up at the beautiful buildings.

We spent the rest of our time in Riga just wandering around the old town, and stopping for a delicious treat from Cruffins before the next leg of our trip. As a treat, I booked us extra leg room and extendable seats in the Lux Express to Tallinn.

So is Riga worth the visit? It’s full of history, beautiful buildings, a ridiculous amount of bars/restaurants, easy to get around on foot and it would definitely be a perfect Christmas market destination. However for the time of year we went, there just wasn’t really any atmosphere, and if was very much like a ghost town. The old town felt very geared to tourists, and around the train station felt very uncomfortable. But 48hrs was the perfect amount of time and we would defo recommend it.