NC500… The Road to John o’ Groats 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿

Before we get started.. this Scotland series is in memory of two very special people who we sadly lost this year. First is to my wonderful Grandad, who spent many happy years in Scotland. Second is our dear friend Jayne, who also had a love for travel, and a love for these blogs 🕊

After months of research and multiple post-its on our map, it was time for the long drive to Scotland to collect our campervan. Because of the distance (and due to Mark finishing nights on the Friday morning) we chose to break the journey up by staying in Stirling (because this was far cheaper than Glasgow or Edinburgh!) Obviously the M6 had other ideas, and after only 2 stops, one of which obviously including Tebay, and 8hrs later, we eventually arrived in Stirling. As a treat before 10 days of potential terrible sleep, I booked a posh room at the Premier Inn. Unfortunately, due to my terribly English accent, he couldn’t understand what I’d said my surname was, and told me they didn’t have my booking. The hotel was also full due to a wedding and a run happening in the city that weekend. This was not the news we needed after such a long drive. I gave him my booking ref, and after a few minutes said ohhh Hannah WOOD. I asked him what he thought I’d said, but he didn’t want to say 🤷🏼‍♀️

After a lovely sleep in the posh room, we decided to have a little walk around Stirling and then head to Culloden battlefield. In hindsight, we should have booked a guided tour, as to us we were essentially walking around a massive field with a few flags, with no idea what we were looking at! We headed to Tesco to get some shopping before getting the van, but unfortunately picked the enormous Tesco Extra which is next to a retail park; and that meant not being able to find anything because the Tesco was so big, and then getting stuck in traffic on the way back onto the main road. We then got stuck in more traffic heading over the bridge, which meant we had a phone call from the campervan hire, essentially asking where we were. Luckily, at this point, we were only a few minutes away, but she informed us we had got stuck in the two main traffic jam areas in Inverness. After a very long (but much needed) lesson on everything our camper Ruby does, it was time to be on our way. Unfortunately we were booked into a campsite that required you to be there at 6pm, and due to the time it meant we had to just go straight there, rather than do one of the waterfall walks we had planned.

We arrived at Dornoch campsite and parked up, ready for our first night. We walked to the beach where we got some food from The Highland Larder – a seafood focused food van. We both had the haddock wrap with tartar sauce and a side of truffle fries. They were absolutely delicious. After a walk along the beach, it was back to the van to set everything up ready to sleep. We decided to go in the pop roof as the wind was at a minimum, and after a bit of faffing about, we managed to get everything sorted ready for our first night sleep.

We woke up to a glorious morning, so were able to have our porridge pots and OJ Al fresco. We battled with the pop roof, packed Ruby up and got ourselves ready for our first full day of adventure. During our research, a popular recommendation was Cocoa Mountain – which apparently does the world’s best hot chocolate. To be fair.. they were right. It was delicious and not too sickly.

Big Burn Our first stop was Big Burn (or for the football fans out there, Big Dan Burn as Mark calls it) a lovely short woodland walk, up a gorge criss-crossed by footbridges and ending in a waterfall. It was so peaceful and we only saw two other couples.

Dunrobin Castle A romantic castle and the ancestral home of the Earls and Dukes of Sutherland, and often called the Jewel in the crown of the Highlands. It has 189 rooms that you can walk around a good chunk of, which are accompanied by good quality information boards (saving the awkward and super long chats with the sometimes slightly over enthusiastic room volunteers). There is also the beautiful grounds to explore, and a falconry display twice a day. It’s ÂŁ14 per adult to get in here.. such a shame it doesn’t belong to NT!

Whaligoe Steps After a quick stop at a scenic P for a coffee and a pastry, we arrived at the tiniest car park for the walk down the 365 Whaligoe steps. Whaligoe Haven is surrounded on three sides by 250ft cliffs and forms one of the most remarkable harbours in Scotland. There is also a ruin of a building once used to store salt for curing fish. Unfortunately after the decent, comes the ascent.. and it really is one to get the heart pumping. But as long as you can get a space, we 100% recommend coming here.

Castle Sinclair Considered to be one of the earliest seats of Clan Sinclair and comprises of the ruins of two castles: the 15th-century Castle Girnigoe; and the early 17th-century Castle Sinclair. Unfortunately the one and only road to this Castle is closed until 10th Oct.. we could have walked from the closest town, but this was just over 2hr round walk, and we just didn’t have enough time to do this ☚ which is a massive shame!

Duncansby Stacks Sat just off the northeast corner of mainland Britain lies the natural wonder of the Duncansby Stacks, as well as the lighthouse guarding the perilous shores. The first is a rocky arch, the second a group of large jagged sea stacks. This area is often missed for the much more touristy JOG, but this is technically the ‘real’ northeastern tip of the British Mainland and the furthest point to Land’s End in Cornwall by a mile or two. There is usually a wealth of seabird activity here, including puffins. We however didnt even see a single gull. There is also a lighthouse built in 1924, and it became fully automated in 1997. With the added bonus of free parking, the stacks and lighthouse shouldn’t be missed.

John o’ Groats We arrived at our 2nd campsite still with enough light to explore what JOG has to offer, included getting the all important photo by the sign. As I was walking towards something else super touristy, I nearly went arse over tit because someone had left their fishing rod buried in the grass. Safe to say he wasn’t happy about it.. but neither was I! As the weather was still relatively warm we decided to have a BBQ, and then pop to JOG brewery for a fantastic finish to the day.