Viewpoints and mozzarella 🇮🇹🍷🧀

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This morning we had a bit of a lie in as we weren’t being picked up until 08:30 – what a treat! It was a bit of a strange and disjointed day.. we but still got to see some beautiful places. Our first stop was a tiny hamlet called Marina del Cantone; a quiet and hidden area towards the end of the Sorrentine peninsula. As it is on the smaller side and not very well known, it’s mainly just locals buzzing around (although in the summer it does become heaving with tourists) and it was lovely to watch them go about their day from the local coffee shop. It also boasts not one, but two Michelin star restaurants! Unfortunately we didn’t have the time (or the dollar) to experience these.

Our next stop (after nearly having a head on collision with another bus) was Termini, another lesser explored place. Although incredibly small, it has everything needed for everyday life, including a butcher and a grocery store. Here you get fantastic views across to Capri and Li Galli islands from the piazza. It also has a church with some very interesting pieces inside, including a creepy doll holding a smaller version of the same creepy doll. As I was walking around, a questionable gentleman came up to me and asked if I wanted to buy some of his mother’s lemon cake from his house down the road. It was of course homemade and the best in the area. As much as I love lemon cake and was incredibly tempted, I declined his offer, just in case they were more the Amsterdam style, or I’d be kidnapped.

We were then taken back into Sorrento for a walking tour. As we have already walked around Sorrento 100s of times over the last few days we were convinced we had seen it all.. wrong! Going around with someone who lives here means you get to explore some of the more hidden streets and ‘attractions’, such as The Chiostro di San Francesco (cloisters) and a 12th Century arched doorway with a feature modern day air-conditioning unit. I had an ice cream which claims to be the world’s best, and I have to say it was one of the best I’ve ever tasted!

This afternoon we were looking forward to a ride out into the countryside to learn how Mozzarella is made. The farm however was only 5 minutes from Sorrento, and it turns out this is an incredibly popular spot for others wanting to see how it’s done! Maria and Rosa are experts in their field, and they bashed out the Mozzarella no problem. We were all then squashed around a table and given some lunch, which I have to say was absolutely delicious. Who can beat Mozzarella, tomato, Italian meats and olive oil. We were also given homemade cake which this time I was happy to have, and it was absolutely soaked in limoncello, along with a glass of homemade red wine.

Mama Maria

This evening we ventured back into Sorrento to see what a Saturday night has to offer. The streets remain bustling, and we found a bar in the main square to sit and watch the lads lads lads, the crazy cyclists and the world go by. We were given a dish of olives to have with our beverages 🫒 but as hard as I try, I just cannot stand the taste, texture, or anything about olives!

Dinner tonight… beginning to feel 2D!

Amalfi Drive 🇮🇹

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This morning was another super early get up ready for a day of driving and exploring. We had a taster of the Amalfi Drive when we took the bus to Positano, but today we travelled much further along, nearly completing the 50km of twists and turns. Luckily we were sat down for this one and not being flung around the bus, however Momma decided to sit on the side with the sheer drop, making the whole journey extra twitchy as one wrong move would send us plunging into the sapphire Tyrrhenian Sea far below. Thank god for Giuseppe the expert bus driver 👍🏻

Our first stop today was the town of Amalfi. I’ve seen loads of people walking around with giant lemons eating sorbet out of them, so I set out to find one. Luckily there are shops everywhere in Amalfi that sell them! Unfortunately I got far too excited and ordered 3 without asking how much they actually were. I was buzzing with my bargain when I was convinced he had said €13, however it became very apparent when I gave him €20 and he just stared at me like I’d just shat on his sorbet, that he had actually said €30. That’s €30 for a bit of sorbet wedged in a giant lemon 🍋 whilst it was actually very refreshing, the heat made it melt super quick so I ended up with incredibly sticky fingers (and toes as half of it dripped into my flip flop)

Back to Amalfi itself.. and it’s a gorgeous part of the coastline full of bars, cafés, shops and a big cathedral. You can catch a boat here if you don’t fancy taking on the Amalfi Drive (also FYI… its highly advised that tourists DO NOT hire a car and do it themselves!) There is a lot of hustle and bustle, but it continues with the tradition of pretty colourful buildings wedged into a tiny amount of space, with a maze of streets and passageways.

The next leg was by boat as we headed to Maiori, and it was apparent how many others don’t appreciate the British love of a queue. There is always a constant battle to be on the correct side of the boat, and Momma who was armed with her Nikon made sure nobody else pushed in, meaning we got a seat on the left hand side of the boat – the side with the views.

Maiori is much less touristy – it has a lovely beach and a gorgeous church with a colourful domed roof. It’s also very flat making it a much more accessible place. We decided to get some lunch and stopped in one of the cafes – Santa asked for a beer and the waiter came out with a cake instead! This was our sign to move on and we stumbled across a ‘pub’. This was evidently a local pub for local people, but they sold Peroni so this is where we stayed. The food was actually very nice and very reasonably priced (lunch inc beer was cheaper than all the lemons 🍋) but Santa decided all the local pigeons looked peckish, and lobbed some of his sarnie to their waiting beaks.

Once back in Sorrento, we made the long trek to the supermarket to stock up on Coke Zero, Tennants and Milka cookies for when we fancied a snack. We went for our obligatory sunset drinks and headed back to the hotel for dinner. Momma decided on the vegetarian option which was described as lettuce and tomato salad – she should have learnt from the cucumber salad in Croatia! Pudding was grapes 🍇 Santa was sad they weren’t squashed and in a bottle!

Pompeii 🌋 🇮🇹

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Normal order was restored for the coach trip as we were up at 6:30 ready for a super early pick up for our trip to Pompeii. We were lucky as we had a very knowledgeable guide taking us around – but we did look like the ultimate tourist wankers as we donned the headset and followed the umbrella 🌂

A little history lesson for you all… Pompeii is famous because it was destroyed in 79 AD when the nearby volcano, Mt Vesuvius, erupted, covering it in at least 19 feet (6 metres) of ash and other volcanic debris. The cities and their citizens were discovered in the 16th Century, and they remained exactly as they had that summer day, frozen in time. The bodies of Pompeii victims had been covered in layers of fine ash that calcified over the centuries, forming a type of protective shell. When the skin and tissue of the Pompeii bodies eventually decayed, all that was left were voids in the layer of ash around them — in the exact shape of the victims in their final moments.

Made from pouring plaster into the air pockets, letting it harden and then chipping away the outer layers of ash.

There is so much to see here and I would 100% recommend a guided tour. There are many options, from 2 – 7hrs of walking. Although it’s incredibly busy, and at times hard to really take it all in, it is an absolute must in you are in the area. A particular highlight is hearing the word Penis mentioned at least 100 times whilst on the tour. They believed that having a phallus outside the home acted as a good luck charm (other theories suggest you followed the direction of the penis to the nearest brothel) either way I’m definitely going to have a massive peen on the wall outside my house 🍆

This afternoon was a guided bus tour around Naples. I’m going to choose not to write about this as we spent most of the time stuck in traffic, so didn’t really get to see much – Santa and Momma therefore took this opportunity to get a few Z’s in 😴 we did however get a very quick 10 mins to jump out the coach, grab a photo and a super tasty ice cream.

This evening we went back to the bar we sniffed out yesterday for a drink and views of the sunset. It was absolutely glorious and definitely somewhere we will return to during this trip. There is nothing better than sitting with a glass of white with a stunning view and some free nuts and crisps.

Tonights dinner, feat pudding which is also available at breakfast 🍧

Positano & Sorrento 🇮🇹

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This morning we decided to try out public transport and take the bus to Positano – a beautiful cliffside village. The bus arrived and it was absolutely packed. This however worked to our advantage as we got shoved on so quickly we didn’t get chance to pay! The journey was an incredibly sweaty one and can only be described as like being on a rollercoaster. We flew around the many twists and turns of the Amalfi drive (whilst the driver was on the phone!) and I spent most of the ride smacking the lady sat down by me in the face with my bag. Although the views were incredible, we were holding on for dear life and were very happy when we arrived for some fresh air.

Bus stop views

Positano is an absolute must for anyone in this area. It’s full of charming zigzag streets selling everything from limoncello to colourful ceramics, pastel buildings stacked on top of each other and a pebble beach with turquoise water. It is however an incredibly touristy place, so much so that it is said we as tourists outnumber the locals three-to-one! As it’s always 5 o’clock somewhere, we sat down at a lovely boozer overlooking the sea and enjoyed a beer and a cocktail at a very eye-watering price. I even managed to force Momma to have a Sex on the Beach 🍹

We managed to find a smaller and much less crowded pebble beach called Fornillo where me and Santa decided to go for a paddle. Unfortunately we made the error of not wearing water shoes and went barefoot instead, one of the most painful experiences of my life!

For the trip back to Sorrento we decided to go in style, and for €15pp you can go by boat. This is much less crowded and gives another perspective to the incredible coastline, as well as plenty of photos ops should you be sat in the right place!

Boat views

This afternoon we were back to familiar territory and explored more of Sorrento’s bustling streets and busy squares. I purchased a gorgeous bread basket with a lemon pattern (it’s actually pretty terrible and Mark is only just finding out about this 🤣 but it was cheap) which I cannot wait to use when I eventually get round to hosting a sophisticated evening 😀 Santa was keen to get back to the supermarket we visited yesterday as he had spotted a 12% can which he throughly enjoyed this evening after his lounge by the pool.

A quieter corner of Sorrento!

We’re really lucky with the location of our hotel as we are right next to one of the best places for a sunset in Sorrento. Unfortunately we were just a bit too late this evening, but the sky was still a glorious colour, and we’ve certainly sniffed out the bar we will be going to tomorrow night.

As is going to be custom with this blog… here is the food for tonight! Inc finger for scale.. 🤣

Sorrento 🇮🇹

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Another blog can only mean one thing… another coach trip! For months we had been planning a classic Spanish adventure, but a month ago we were told this trip could no longer go ahead. We frantically searched the Newmarket Holidays adventure database and decided to give the Amalfi Coast a try instead! As it was a super early start from Manchester, we chose to stay in Sale Travelodge. Close enough that you get a lie in, but far enough away that you get it much cheaper than onsite hotels.

The whole process at MAN was super quick. We purchased car parking with free speedy security, which I will now be getting every time I go to an airport! Less than half hr from arriving to being in departures.. what an absolute treat! So much time for breakfast, a leisurely shop and a whisky sesh for Santa before boarding my 1000th Easyjet flight of the year.

Our super speedy pilot landed us early, and that together with the super speedy passport control and having our bags off first meant we were in good spirits and ready to go. Unfortunately being with a coach tour means you have to wait for everyone, including definite Karen and her friend who were stood at the wrong baggage carrousel, meaning we were all waiting around for over an hour. I was pleased to see that as always, I am the youngest here by at least 100 years.

Unlike most of these types of holidays, today was a free day, meaning we could explore Sorrento on our own. A gorgeous 26 degrees meant it was time to whack on the shorts and suncream and head out to explore. Everywhere you go you get views of Mount Vesuvius, and I am certain I will see it from every angle possible during the next week. We had a lovely walk into town from our hotel – unfortunately I stood in a massive wet dog turd in my new white trainers 💩 (and on the walk back, it was evident that many more people had done the same thing) which made me sad, so I had to stop at a lovely cafe for something tasty to cheer me up.

As I am getting with the times, research for this trip now included TikTok videos (in all seriousness, there’s so much inspo on there!) so we headed for Bagni Regina Giovanna – Scenic ruins of a Roman villa with coastal views & a secluded beach. It turns out this wasn’t a special find as there was loads of people here, but it was still so beautiful to see and the views were stunning.

Oh look! Vesuvius again 😉

It was a fair trek back to our hotel, which was incredibly twitchy arse at times as it involved walking along main roads with no pavements and crazy bus drivers.. but we made it! Santa popped into the local supermarket where he found a Tennants Extra which he enjoyed on the balcony this evening. Dinner at the hotel was a questionable affair.. thank god for the Milka cookies we had earlier!

At least I will return thin.. every cloud!

Day 10 – Reykjavik 🇮🇸

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So today was our last full day 😭 and before we headed for the capital we had a little drive around Akranes where we stayed last night. It has two lighthouses; one of the oldest concrete lighthouse in Iceland, and a newer bigger one which is open to the public. The town even has an Irish Day in July where they have a competition to see who has the reddest hair. Unfortunately both times I’ve been here, I’ve just missed out on definitely winning this prize 🤣

I’m very lucky that I’ve been to Iceland before, in fact this is now my third visit to Reykjavik! Mark is a Reykjavik virgin, so was excited to show him the best it has to offer. We started off by visiting a highly rated bakery – Brauð & Co. The cinnamon buns here are beyond incredible. Fresh, warm and delicious. The vanilla and raspberry croissant was also a taste sensation.

We also chose to toast the trip with a few beverages, and Reykjavik is full of Happy Hour’s, which is handy due to the price of alcohol (and everything else!) here. We headed to Lebowski Bar for wine, beer and cocktails, and a basket of mozzarella sticks just to keep us going. They were playing Jurassic Park on the big screen, which made us laugh as it reminded us of the farting man is Husavik.

When I came with momma back in 2014 we had the most amazing fish and chips, so after walking around we finally found the same restaurant, and again had the most amazing fish and chips.

There is so much to see and do in Reykjavik and it is a perfect base to explore Iceland if road tripping isn’t your thing. Our original plan for our last night was to stay at the Happy Campers campsite and then taxi it to the airport in the early hours, however we decided to treat ourselves and book a hotel by the airport. We have loved the campervan life, but being in a proper bed with our own shower was beyond heaven. Thank god for booking.com

The airport run this morning was relatively smooth, however I got accused of pushing in when I got into the speedy boarding queue (which I had paid for!) by an awful lady I’m going to call Karen. I even apologised that I was going in front of her, to which she replied ‘Sorry! You’re not sorry at all’. Ok Karen.. next time pay and then you can get through quicker. I very happily walked past Karen and boarded the plane before she did, in my speedy boarding queue.

Day 9 – The Snæfellsnes Peninsula 🇮🇸

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We were in for another day of clocking up the miles, so after a couple of pots of Skyr and a bowl of frosties, we prepped the flasks with plenty of coffee and hit the road to get us back out the Westfjords. On the drive yesterday we spotted a shipwreck, but we’re unable to get a closer look due to someone blocking the entrance to the parking area, however today it was empty so we had a quick investigate. It is thought to be the oldest steel ship in Iceland and has been at this location since 1981. It is now in a bit of a sorry state and is far too unsafe to actually get on, but it still makes for some dramatic photography.

We left the Westfjords and headed to familiar territory for me.. the Snæfellsnes Peninsula. It was also time for another diesel run, and again the PAYG pump refused my card.. such a pain! It was therefore only right that to ease the stress, we got a service station hottdog 🌭 The first stop on the peninsula was Kirkjufell, said to be the most photographed mountain in the country. Again another GoT location – Beyond the wall from season 7. It’s distinctive shape and Kirkjufellsfoss at the front makes the whole area very dramatic.

Next stop was Saxhóll crater, which was much easier reach the top in comparison to the crater earlier in the week. The landscape it has created is incredible and the views over the mossy lava fields below are mind-blowing.

As the peninsula is a relatively small area, there is so much you can see and do in a day, and so our next stop was an ancient fishing village called Hellnar, with views over to Mt Stapafell. Some Icelanders believe this place is a favourite for elves! It’s the perfect place to sit with a picnic (when the weather allows) and watch the world go by. There is also the option to do a coastal walk to the next village – Arnarstapi, however as we both exhausted we decided to just drive it instead.

It was back to the van for our next stop, a giant crack you can see from the road. Rauðfelsdsgja gorge is easily accessible in the summer months and is a short hike from the car park. It’s another small scramble to get into the gorge itself, but its well worth the potential soggy shoe. On our way back to the van we noticed a group of people, and one of them dislocated his shoulder! Luckily the ambulance was just pulling up (although who knows where the nearest A&E is 🤷‍♀️) so Mark didn’t have to jump in and be a hero.

Our last stop on the peninsula was the black wooden church Búðakirkja. Located within a lava field, it is a fantastic building to photograph whatever the weather. I have been here twice and both times have been totally different and I can’t decide which conditions I prefer. Again it’s another peaceful location and somewhere you could spend all day exploring the surroundings.

Tonights base is another campsite overlooking the sea in the town of Akranes. Whilst doing the washing up we spotted the campsites local resident curled up on top of the dryer getting shelter from the rain. After a quick fuss it was back to the van to get some sleep before our last full day in Iceland 😭

Day 8 – The Westfjords 🇮🇸

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This morning was a slightly earlier start than usual as we were in for a long day of driving. The Westfjords was somewhere we were both keen to visit, as only around 10% of visitors actually make it here due to its vastness and distance from the main ‘tourist attractions’. Its also only somewhere you can visit during the summer months, as the roads are a lot less maintained and snowfall is incredibly heavy during the winter. The scenery here is beyond stunning but there are very few places to pull over and actually admire it properly. We did manage to find one, however Mark was very quickly attacked by a group of Arctic Tern (a very angry bird!) and after running around the van a few times, he decided that they had won and returned to safety. After a bit of research, it turns out that they are notorious for attacking people, and scratching you with their talons!

Pre attack 🦅

Our first proper stop of the day was the mighty Dynjandi waterfall, which means thunderous, and is often referred to as the jewel of the Westfjords. It’s also known as the bridal veil falls due to its distinctive shape. Thanks to a group of volunteers, it’s so easily accessible from the car park meaning more people can enjoy the beauty. It is definitely one of our favourite falls and the photos really don’t do it justice. As a treat, there are also 6 smaller falls on the way up to Dynjandi, making it a foss heaven 💦

Driving the Westfjords involves lots of arse twitchy twisty roads that are full of potholes, so this is something to bear in mind if you want to add it to your trip. As the area is so big we had to decide what was most important to see, and as we hadn’t yet done a ‘side of the road hot spring’ we chose to add this to the itinerary, and headed to Krosslaug. It’s well hidden and Google promised minimal people know its location. Turns out the day we went, lots of people found it! But it was still so lovely to sit and enjoy the views with a cold drink to hand. The only small issue was when I went back to get changed, I found a pair of someone else’s knickers in my shoe!

Home for this evening was probably one of our favourites so far as it had a waterfall and a ‘normal’ coloured beach, which is very rare for Iceland. We fired up the BBQ tonight because it was just too nice not to, and had yet more hot dogs with crispy onion and that fabulous sauce. As Rauðisandur beach was right next to the campsite, we decided to have a midnight sun walk to enjoy the sound of the crashing waves, whilst looking on at the moody clouds over cliffs in the distance.

Day 7 – Continuing the North 🇮🇸

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As the trip so far as been very full on with lots of walking, we decided to have a relaxing morning and do something we had seen during our YouTube research – a beer spa! The experience starts in the outdoor wooden hottubs with views over Hrísey island, the mountains and Þorvalds valley. Then the fun part – bathing in a big tub filled with beer, water, hops and yeast. You cannot drink this water, but you get your own beer tap and it’s drink as much as you can in half hour. Bet Santa is gutted he’s missed out on this 🎅🏻 After the bath it’s to the relaxation room for a further half hr where you get wrapped up in a blanket and left to chill. This is a shared room so I had to try and be quiet for 30 whole mins! As we were in a beer establishment it would be rude to not sample any, so Mark got himself a beer flight and I enjoyed a Pepsi Max as the nominated driver 🤣 his favourite was the IPA. I had a taste of the sour and it was probably one of the worst things I’ve ever had in my mouth.

After the spa we headed back towards where we stayed last night to explore the town of Akureyri, the 2nd largest city in Iceland and known as the capital of the North. Although we have eaten well this trip, we decided to treat ourselves to some lunch and stopped at a lovely cafe for eggs, bacon and avocado. As it was a Saturday, it meant the parking was free! So we used our saved small fortune to get a slice of carrot cake as well.

Akureyri is full of cafés, bars and shops, as well as street art, botanical gardens and an interesting looking church. It has its own airport and you can get to pretty much everything in the North in a day’s worth of driving. Just as we were leaving I spotted a discount 66°N shop, the brand all the locals love.. so I treated myself to the cheapest hat!

Crazy Pokemon?

As the plan is to head to the Westfjords tomorrow we decided to get as close as possible and find a campsite there. But with so much driving it was only right that we had a few stops along the way. The first one being Grafarkirkja – the oldest turf church in Iceland (much to Mark’s delight!) You can no longer get into the church due to preservation purposes, but you are able to walk around the turf ring site. You can still smell that ‘old church smell’ in the air. It looks so tiny with the towering mountains behind and there is something so charming about it that you can’t help turning round every 5 minutes on the walk back to the car for another look.

The last stop on the agenda was Hvítserkur – a 15m tall sea stack. Legend has it that it’s actually a petrified troll, turned into stone by the daylight as he tried to ruin the local church bells. Whether it’s this, or just sea erosion, it’s a fantastic place to visit, especially in the evening as you get the most beautiful light.

We finally made it to our home for the night, a lovely little campsite next to the water, equipped with 2 hottubs to sit and enjoy a beer after a long day driving.

Day 6 – The North 🇮🇸

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We woke to drizzly morning, and after the daily chores of moving cases and putting the bed back to seats, we headed to our first stop – Hverfjall. This tuff ring volcano was created about 2,500 years ago, and has an incredibly impressive crater approximately one kilometre in diameter. The walk to the top is pretty hard going due to the loose surface, but when the rain and mist cleared we were treated to views for miles. There were a few groups heading down into the crater, but as they were equipped with poles and the proper gear, we decided it wasn’t worth joining them.

A rare treat for this trip was the next stop was literally 5 minutes down the road. The Grjótagjá cave features a beautiful geothermal hot spring which cannot be used to swim in to try and protect this unique pool from damage. There are lots of stories and legends surrounding this cave, however it was ‘that scene’ with Jon Snow and Ygritte in GoT that prompted our visit. The lad chose well!

During the drive to Mývatn last night we noticed lots of steam coming from an area, so again as it was close we decided to check it out. The smell of egg in the air is overwhelming thanks to the sulphur, but if you can handle that, you’re treated to smoking fumaroles and boiling mud pots.

Our final leg today was to Húsavík, made famous by the fantastic Eurovision film Fire Saga 🤣 and definitely not because it’s the Whale capital of Iceland.. by this point we were starving, so chose to eat at JaJa Ding Dong cafe (named after one of the songs from the film) and enjoyed some pizza whilst overlooking the sea.

We hadn’t planned on going Whale Watching, but with a 98% success rate we decided to give it a go. We were given super thick all in one suits to keep warm and headed to the rib boat. We were joined by just 2 other couples, meaning it was like having our own private tour. The bloke in front was the spitting image of Richard Attenborough in Jurassic Park, who half way through the trip had the audacity to stand up out of his seat and fart really loud!! We were literally sat directly behind him.. filth! Very soon after leaving the radio went telling the captain of a sighting, and we had our first glimpse of a humpback whale, which was amazing.

We had also booked the tour that included seeing Puffins, so we headed to the island where they’ve made it their home. Just like Skomer, there were 1000s of them, and being able to see them up close swimming around and diving for fish was so cool.

As we still had loads of time left we went further out to sea to see if we could see anymore whales. We were there a while and hadn’t seen anything, but just as we were about to give up and head back, we spotted a spouting, and then came the most incredible experience of seeing 4 humpback whales. It really was the most fantastic thing. As we were heading back there was a really loud bang and the rib boat stopped, and we were all convinced we would be stranded with the whales! It turns out there was a huge log which the boat had hit, which was very likely to be from a tree.. but also could have been from what one of us had produced with our terrible diet of car snacks and pasta 🤣

The drive to our next campsite was another scenic one. The light here, especially very late evening is just magical. We arrived at the huge site and found a place to park up, however it turns out it’s a favourite with gulls, who spent the next hour shagging on and sharting down the van!