Kent Day 4 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿

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Day 4 was all about Chatham, but we decided to have an en route stop at Aylesford, because Mum read they had a cute bridge. This tiny village is indeed picturesque and is said to be one of the oldest in England. The free car park, which offers views of the Grade I listed bridge, is an added bonus! As usual, it was raining, so we walked up the road to The Friars Café at Aylesford Priory for some shelter and a flat white. Fortunately, after our quick stop, the blue sky returned, which made for a much nicer backdrop for our bridge photos.

Part of Mum’s birthday present was a the Call the Midwife Tour at Chatham Docks, but before we joined that, we were able to explore some of HMS Cavalier – a CA-class destroyer. Launched in 1944, she saw service in the Arctic, Western Approaches and British Pacific Fleet before finally paying off at Chatham in 1972. 

As Santa has absolutely no interest in CTM, he went off on another tour of HM submarine Ocelot, where he learnt that water was rationed, particularly if they were going on a a spying operation, as they never knew how long they would be gone. The crew had only a small bowlful of water per week for washing and shaving, and each man had just two pairs of pants. You can only imagine the smell with 70 men living in such close quarters!

We met with our group and Irene, who was our guide for the CTM tour. The tour focuses on the exterior locations of the series, specifically the streets and buildings that make up the tenements of Poplar. Some locations were instantly recognizable, while others required photos to show how they were transformed for the scenes. Irene was extremely knowledgeable and enthusiastic, referencing specific episodes that were filmed in those exact places and providing insights from the production process.

The tour concluded with a secret location, accessible only to tour participants. We entered through a locked door, behind which was an exclusive exhibition featuring many original artifacts and props from the show.

We finished off the day with a quick swing by Rochester, because who doesn’t love a whip round Cathedral and a Castle, especially when they’re both free (Cathedral to everyone.. Castle to EH members) After that, we headed back to Whitstable for another sunset and an absolutely delicious Thai meal. 

Kent Day 3

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We decided this morning to spend a bit more time exploring Whitstable, and hunting down the street art by ‘Catman’, whose work can be found dotted around on buildings all around the town. When you think of Whitstable, you think of a working harbour and oysters. There is absolutely no way you would ever get me eating an oyster.. So we decided to check out the fishermens boats. It was still low tide however so incredibly minimal boating activity, but Santa did get an idea for another trip to Whitstable – join a boat tour to the Maunsell Forts. These can be seen on a clear day, along with all the wind turbines! 

For the rest of the day, we decided to explore the Thanet district, starting in Margate, then heading to Broadstairs, and finishing in Ramsgate. Naturally, it rained for most of the day. 

Margate is the largest of the three towns and has undergone significant regeneration, featuring independent and vintage shops, coffee shops, and artistic hubs. However, there is still noticeable neglect in some areas. We went for some shelter in The Old Kent Market, the site of the old Parade Cinema. It houses a range of stalls selling food and crafts, but unfortunately, most of the businesses were closed. We also mooched around the old town, which is where you will find a lot of the independent shops and cafes. 

I don’t think the weather helped, as the place felt almost deserted, with only a few people loitering in the streets with their tinnies. I imagine that during dry summer days and weekends, the town is vibrant and lively, but unfortunately, it just didn’t do it for us today. Despite the weather, we still appreciated its general seaside charm, the people in the shops were super friendly, and I bet that Dreamland would be a joy to visit in better weather!

For the drive to Broadstairs, Santa requested Chas and Dave – Down to Margate. Turns out Mum thought they were singing Downham Market 👍 Once we arrived, the rain gave us a brief reprieve, and we made our way to the sandy Viking Bay. It was completely deserted, a stark contrast to how it would have looked a few weeks ago during the school holidays. Nevertheless, we truly believe Broadstairs is the jewel in Thanet’s crown.

After enjoying a lunch at the Charles Dickens pub, we strolled along the promenade to our next destination, Stone Bay. The wind picked up, allowing Mum to take plenty of photos of the crashing waves! Stone Bay is a stunning and tranquil spot, surrounded by chalk cliffs and colorful beach huts. We spent a lot of time here, simply taking in the calmness and beauty of this blue flag beach.

 Before heading off to Ramsgate, I made sure we had a quick sesh in the arcade, and Santa made sure he had a drink in The Royston – East Kent Pub of the Year 2024.

By the time we arrived in Ramsgate, it was pouring rain, so we took shelter in the UK’s largest Wetherspoons, which can accommodate up to 1,500 customers! We were eager to explore, so while the rain lightened up, we stepped out for a walk along the UK’s only royal harbor and admired the boats bobbing around in the water.

Another interesting fact about Ramsgate is that it has its own Meridian Line and “mean time,” which is 5 minutes and 41 seconds ahead of Greenwich Mean Time. Unfortunately, the clock tower is currently undergoing renovation, and it’s unclear when it will reopen. There’s so much to see and do in Ramsgate that, in hindsight, we wish we had visited here first and saved Margate for later.

Since we still had a bit of daylight and we love cramming everything in, we decided to take a walk to Kingsgate Bay and Botany Bay. These locations feature stunning sections of the coastline, known for their chalk cliffs, chalk stacks, and several caves. Given the time of day and the weather, we practically had the beach to ourselves, except for a photoshoot that was taking place. Once again, we found ourselves wishing we had more time to fully explore the caves and rock pools.

As it was super late when we arrived back to Whitstable, there was only one thing left to do – small plates at Spoons! Set in an old cinema, it’s also full of film memorabilia, and obviously perfect for people watching. 

Kent Day 2 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿

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The day began at the strange yet fascinating Dungeness – a uniquely desolate shingle headland often referred to as the UK’s only desert, even though it isn’t technically one. It is an important conservation area because of the plant and wildlife that reside there. It is a National Nature Reserve, a Special Protection Area, a Special Area of Conservation and is considered to be a site of special scientific interest.

The area has an apocalyptic and eerie feel to it, reminiscent of some of the odd American towns we have visited—places with tiny populations where people rarely leave. The shingle beach is strewn with abandoned old boats and remnants of a narrow-gauge railway line that was once used by fishermen to transport their catch from the sea to the shore for distribution.

There are two lighthouses located in Dungeness: the old lighthouse and the new one. Over the years, there have actually been five lighthouses in total. The current Old Dungeness Lighthouse, which is the fourth to be built, opened in 1904 but was retired in 1961 when the newest lighthouse was constructed. Visitors can climb to the top of the old lighthouse; however, it was closed when we visited 🤣

It’s the end of the line of The Romney, Hythe and Dymchurch railway. It runs for 13.5 miles (27.1km) across Romney Marsh to Dungeness. Opened in 1927, it is billed as the world’s smallest public railway. More importantly, the cafe and toilets are located here!

It’s also home to Prospect Cottage – the former home and sanctuary of artist, filmmaker, gay rights activist, and gardener Derek Jarman. After a successful campaign to preserve the cottage, visitors can now explore the home and workspace of one of Britain’s most iconic creative figures.

Finally, the main event, the two massive nuclear power stations creatively named A and B, dominate the landscape and skyline. The current owner, EDF Energy, is in the process of dismantling them due to significant technical challenges discovered during the maintenance shutdown in 2018. 

Dungeness offers a wealth of photographic opportunities, not only because of the power stations and boats but also due to its unique buildings and converted railway carriages. The place can be described with many words—eerie, bleak, wild, and stark—but it is definitely a spot you should add to your list of places to visit. I dread to think how many photos Mum has taken!

We then headed to Folkestone, and I was excited to check out all the independent shops along the creative quarter. Unfortunately, the majority of them are closed on a Tuesday.. But I was still able to buy the obligatory postcard.. The weather continued to be on our side as we strolled around the harbour, which has undergone significant renovation, making it a vibrant seaside town. 

If you are an art lover, then the Folkestone Triennial is the perfect event for you. This open-air exhibition runs for three months, from July to October, and features a free art
trail showcasing contemporary works from 18 artists representing 15 countries. Each artist has created new commissions that are displayed along the waterfront and throughout the town.

One of the highlights of the exhibition (although from 2017) is Anthony Gormley’s ‘Another Time,’ which is designed to “bear witness to what it is like to be alive and alone in space and time.” Another notable piece this year is Dorothy Cross’s ‘Red Erratic.’ This giant red stone is positioned quietly between land and sea, with feet carved into its surface. It serves as a striking reminder that nothing remains static—not people, landscapes, or history.

As previously mentioned, with it being a Tuesday, most of the food and drink establishments along the Harbour Arm were closed. This was probably a good thing for my bank account, as I would have been tempted to buy all the street food! Fortunately for Santa, Brewing Brothers was open, so we sat outside enjoying the sun while he savoured a beer.

The final stop for today was the White Cliffs of Dover, and as it was getting late, this meant a max time of hour and half to explore before the car park gates closed. The towering chalk cliffs rise 50 feet high and stretch 16 miles in length, approximately 8 miles on either side of the town of Dover. As it was a clear day, we were able to see France across the Channel, and even managed to watch an Irish Ferry pretty much make its entire journey over there. Unfortunately, you do get a Welcome to France message, and that meant for me, I was charged £2.59 roaming.. It also meant I had a slight twitchy arse moment when I thought we were late for the car park, only to realise my phone time had skipped an hour ahead. You definitely need a lot longer to explore here, especially if you want to get over to South Foreland Lighthouse, or down onto Langdon Bay – the white cliffs beach by ladder.

We finished the day with a delicious Fish and Chips, and Santa enjoyed his 12% can I brought him back from Poland.

Kent Day 1 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿

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It’s Mum’s birthday week, and she has chosen to base ourselves in Whitstable to explore the delights of Kent. We loaded the car with all our bags (you’d think Mum & Dad were going away for a month by the amount they’ve got) and began our journey to our first stop—Hever Castle. Unfortunately, after a brief stop at the services, I noticed a strange ‘clonking’ noise coming from the wheel. This meant we had to pull over to the bright yellow refuge area on the side of the M4. Thankfully, Nick from the AA came to our rescue, and got us back on the road, although this did involve closing the inside lane to get us back on the motorway.. Awks.

This slight hiccup meant that we wouldn’t have time to go to Hever Castle, so headed to Scotney Castle instead – a medieval ruin on an island in a small lake. We obviously needed to stop by the café first, but the wasps quickly took a liking to Santa’s Tango, meaning we needed to dash inside for shelter. We then got a stamp for the National Trust passport. Unfortunately, the lady stamped it right on top of another stamp, and then wrote the wrong date! Obviously Mum was fuming 😂 

Walking around the site feels like being transported back in time. The castle was built in the late 14th century and has undergone several changes over the centuries. Eventually, it was partly dismantled and became a garden feature. In addition to the castle, there is also a mansion known as Scotney New Castle, which offers stunning views of the surrounding area from the lake.

We arrived at our Airbnb and were delighted to find Prosecco and cakes left as a welcome treat. We unloaded the 1001 bags and headed out to explore Whitstable. It was unusually quiet, but this meant there was nobody about to get in Mum’s photos! We walked down to Tankerton bay, where unfortunately there was a school trip, getting in all of Mum’s photos 😂 Tankerton is known for its charming, painted beach huts and the gently sloping grassy banks that lead down to a shingle beach. A quick Google search shows that some of the huts can sell for as much as £60,000! But who wouldn’t want to sit on the veranda of one with a glass of wine and watch the world go by. 

We strolled back to Whitstable and found a lovely spot to sit and watch the sunset – luckily for Santa it was a watering hole selling Whitstable Oyster Brewing, and he enjoyed an Oyster Country Stout. 

Gower 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿

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What to do when I have 2 days off? Have a 24hr adventure obviously! After finishing nights and having a few hours sleep, we packed up the car and headed to Swansea for a night in a cheap Travelodge. We dumped our bags and headed out for some food and a pint at Sessions by Mumbles Brewery. Unfortunately, the chef decided he fancied the day off, which meant no pizza. Luckily, the friendly staff offered to whip up a couple of delicious paninis for us instead. Santa was especially thrilled to hear it was Happy Hour, and got his second pint for free! We then returned to the car, ready to catch the sunset at Three Cliffs Bay.

We parked at the Southgate National Trust car park and embarked on a scenic cliff top walk toward Three Cliffs Bay. The natural light was beautiful, and after about 40 minutes walking, the peaks emerged before us. The seclusion of the area, thanks to the relatively lengthy walk, added to its charm, and there were very few people around. 

I took Momma and Santa down a steep and rocky path leading to the beach, which of course they were thrilled about! The golden sands and blue waters, complete with rock pools and steep cliff edges, created a perfect natural setting, untouched by cafes or shops. 
As we strolled across the beach and ventured through the triangular gap in the rock, we remained mindful of the tide gradually coming in.

After some exploration, we returned to the cliff walk to catch the sunset. It was stunning, with the colours changing every moment. Leaving was difficult, as we wished to linger and fully soak in the atmosphere and picturesque views.

The following morning, after a breakfast at Spoons, we headed back to Three Cliffs Bay, but this time parking at Gower Heritage Centre. Here you can stock up on coffee, cake, ice cream, cider and all sorts of other treats – much needed to fuel a walk to the beach. Starting the walk from this point not only provided a fresh perspective of the beach but also allowed us to take in stunning views of Pennard Castle, and a go on the stepping stones along the way.

We then headed to Rhossili Bay – a consistent favorite in Wales’ Top 10 Beaches. 
It’s backed by dunes and overlooked by 200-metre-high hills and jagged sea cliffs. There’s a large National Trust car park on the clifftop, which of course is free for NT members. As we strolled along the coastal cliffs towards the old coastguards station and Worms Head, we encountered wild horses and their foals grazing peacefully. For those who can plan their visit carefully, it’s possible to cross the causeway to the Worm, but this requires timing it within the two and a half hours surrounding low tide. Since we weren’t able to time our visit for that crossing, we took the opportunity to relax a bit and enjoy the stunning scenery in the sunshine.

Walking back along the cliff, we continued to admire the expansive three-mile beach before stopping by The View for lunch. We were fortunate to secure a bench with, as the café’s name suggests, an incredible view. The
food was absolutely delicious. Momma is already thinking about planning a trip to The Worms Head Hotel to capture the sunrise and sunset—ideal moments for photography!

We had initially planned to visit The Mumbles, but in our quest for adventure, we decided to seek out Whiteford Lighthouse, the only wave-swept cast-iron lighthouse in Britain. Measuring 13 meters tall, this decommissioned lighthouse was constructed in 1865 and is situated at the northern tip of the beach. Whilst we knew reaching the lighthouse would be a challenge, we didn’t anticipate just how much of an effort it would require. We parked in Cwm Ivy and set off through the woods, alongside the salt marsh. This area was reclaimed from the sea in the 17th century for farmland and has been protected by a sea defense that has evolved in size and strength over the years. However, in 2014, the sea wall breached, allowing the waters to reclaim the land and transforming Cwm Ivy from a freshwater marsh into a salt marsh.

We knew we would eventually need to traverse the sand dunes, and we spotted a stile that led into them, which seemed like the logical route. However, we encountered several barbed wire fences along the way. Fortunately, many had been flattened in spots by previous walkers, allowing us to navigate through. We made our way through the spiky Marram grass and finally reached the beach, which was completely deserted. Unfortunately, the lighthouse was still some distance away, and access varied depending on the tide, so we decided to take advantage of Momma’s super zoom for a closer look before we searched for a better route back to the woods. After tackling a few more fences, we ultimately found our way back to a proper path.

Once we made it back to the car, we decided that it would be ambitious to try to fit anything else into our day, so we decided to head home, reflecting on a wonderful 48 hours spent exploring Gower.

Yorkshire 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿

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Get ready for our adventure in stunning North Yorkshire! We set out to uncover charming new towns and picturesque beaches, alongside some favourites we’ve visited before. Join us for another action-packed itinerary and share our top recommendations for a reet good getaway!

Brodsworth Hall & Gardens Since it was a long drive, we decided to take a break and stretch our legs at this stunning English Heritage site. The country house is well-preserved, and the gardens are beautifully manicured, with seasonal flowers on display. Fortunately, during our visit, we were treated to a vibrant sea of tulips. The site first opened to the public in 1995, and extensive work has been done since then to create the beautiful attraction you see today. There are gardeners everywhere, meticulously tending to the plants and lawns and ensuring that all the bushes are perfectly trimmed. We chose to skip the inside of the house (though I’ve heard it’s worth a visit) and instead enjoyed the tea room, where I must say, we had one of the best coronation chicken sandwiches we’ve enjoyed in a long time! If you’re an English Heritage member, this is definitely a perfect stop on your journey.

Staithes This quiet and charming fishing village was the childhood home of Captain James Cook. Parking is available only at the top of the hill, so be prepared for a steep walk down and an equally long and sweaty walk back up. Take a stroll along the high street, where each side street offers another opportunity for great photos. At the end, you’ll find the harbour, which is sheltered by rugged cliffs. Be sure to visit the Cod and Lobster, a perfect spot for a well-deserved pint with relaxing views. Additionally, this village is home to Dog Loup, one of the narrowest streets in the UK, measuring just 45cm wide.

Saltburn-by-the-sea This is where we chose to base ourselves for the next three nights, in an Airbnb just a stone’s throw away from the beach to the left, and the shops to the right. It perfectly captures the essence of a British seaside town, featuring colorful chalets, fish and chip shops, and a pier, but without the overwhelming number of arcades (although I do enjoy a slotties sesh) and other typical tourist tat. One of the main events in Saltburn is the cliff lift – it uses water to move the two carriages up and down, and is the oldest cliff lift of this type operating in the UK. The other is its pier – its Grade 2 listed and is the last remaining pier in Yorkshire!

Unlike our usual adventures, we decided to spend an entire day exploring the local area without using the car at all! We began the day with a stroll along the beach to Marske-by-the-Sea, where we stopped at ‘In the Dog House’ for coffee and cake. At first glance, the place looked a bit questionable, but the coffee was excellent (and I always appreciate a complimentary biscuit), and the staff were incredibly friendly. After our break, we took a different route back along the cliff walk to get a different perspective of Saltburn. We walked through fields with very inquisitive cows, maneuvered over a few challenging stiles (which were a bit tricky for Santa and his hip), and ventured into the wooded valley of Hazel Grove. From there, we visited the viaduct and Saltburn Gill before making our way back into Saltburn itself—it turned out to be a delightful 8.6-mile walk.

We then headed to The Ship for a much-needed drink, and Santa was thrilled to discover that they had Old Peculiar on tap! The pub boasts a large beer garden, which served as the perfect vantage point to watch the surfers while Momma snapped away with her camera. Next, we took a walk along the pier, had a quick go at the 2p machine (where we sadly won absolutely nothing 😩), and admired the colorful chalets. Finally, we returned to the beach for some fish and chips and a bottle of wine.

Rievaulx Abbey  This monastery was one of England’s most powerful Cistercian establishments, founded in 1132 by just 12 monks. At its peak, it was home to around 650 residents until its dissolution by King Henry VIII in 1538. Following this, it transformed into an iron forge, where the lay brothers at Rievaulx produced their own tools, nails, and cutlery. Eventually, the forge closed down, and the land passed through generations of the landed gentry before being designated a historical monument in the 1900s. Visitors can utilize audio guides and will find plenty to explore in these remarkable ruins, easily spending hours immersed in their history. We arrived here just after opening, so had the abbey to ourselves for most of our visit, much to Momma’s delight!

Helmsley From quiet to absolutely packed, we secured the very last spot in the car park! Helmsley is the only market town within the North York Moors National Park, featuring charming old sandstone buildings that host a variety of independent shops, cafes, and restaurants. Thanks to the fantastic weather, the square was bustling with motorbikes, much to the irritation of the owner of the cafe we chose! After enjoying our mandatory coffee and cake, Momma took some time to explore The Ginger Bear, while Santa savored a beer at the brewery. Our final stop in Helmsley was the impressive castle, boasting over 900 years of history—marking our second English Heritage site of the day.

Thornton-le-Dale This pretty little village kept popping up during our research, so decided to swing by to check it out. The car park is huge, but the adjoining toilets were absolutely filthy (I just love seeing turd smeared all over the walls). Whilst the village has its appeal, a drive-through would have sufficed. However, we did enjoy a sandwich and sausage roll during our stop!

Whitby Whitby is an incredibly popular destination, and as an added surprise, it was the Goth Weekend! This event has been taking place since the mid-’90s, attracting people dressed in gothic attire and showcasing other alternative subcultures. While many attendees wore steampunk outfits, the variety of costumes was impressive and contributed to a unique atmosphere. We climbed the 199 steps leading up to the gothic ruins of Whitby Abbey, which sits precariously on the windswept cliffs, often battered by the elements. Founded in the 7th century, this Abbey fell victim to King Henry VIII, resulting in the nearly complete demolition of its south side in 1539. Not only does the Abbey possess a rich and vibrant history, but it also served as inspiration for Bram Stoker’s Dracula.

After exploring the Abbey, we visited Whitby Brewery, located in the shadow of the Abbey. Santa enjoyed a Black Death stout, and we all indulged in some delicious pizza. Afterward, we strolled over to the Whalebone Arch, erected in 1853, which frames a stunning view of the town below as well as the Abbey. To finish off the day, we headed to the East Pier to catch the sunset. The streets were now empty, allowing us to admire the old cobblestones and shopfronts on our walk back to the car.

Runswick Bay Runswick Bay is a hidden gem on the Yorkshire coastline, offering a picturesque village filled with charming atmosphere. Cue more red-bricked roofs and winding streets huddled together beneath dramatic cliffs. With the tide out, we had the opportunity to explore the stretch of coastline, although we unfortunately didn’t find any fossils. However, a young family enjoying the rock pools did discover a large lobster – I think the whole of Yorkshire heard her screaming “We’ve found a lobster”. We really enjoyed Runswick! We ended up staying longer than we thought we because it was so relaxing. We would highly recommend a visit here.

Robin Hood’s Bay Another popular destination, the steep hill from the top of the village provides views of the surrounding coastline. This hill leads down to the lower part of the village, a maze of narrow, cobbled alleyways lined with charming houses at every turn. Picture Yorkshire stone houses adorned with brightly painted doors and, of course, red rooftops. Momma was in her photography element, until we got to one of the iconic houses and it was covered in scaffolding..

Historically, Robin Hood’s Bay was a hotspot for smugglers. The police would frequently raid their contraband, only to indulge in the rum and brandy themselves. It often resulted in the officers falling into a deep, drunken sleep, allowing the smugglers to reclaim their goods!

During our visit, we stopped by a little hut near the beach to grab some sandwiches to enjoy at the top of the hill while taking in the views. Unfortunately, Santa’s tuna sandwich turned out to be a cheese sandwich instead. Of course, this didn’t phase him, and he still gobbled the whole thing up. We ended our day with a drink at the Victoria Hotel, which held a bit of nostalgia for Mum and Dad as it was where they stayed during their last visit.

Flamborough Head The last place we visited before heading home was Flamborough Head, a chalk headland known for its sheer white cliffs. It features two lighthouses: one built in 1669 and the other in 1806. The color of the water here was incredible—something you would expect from a tropical island, not the windy coast of Yorkshire. The photos truly don’t do it justice. 

In addition to being an important site for seabird colonies (making it a hotspot for migratory birds), Flamborough is also home to a large population of seals. It was delightful to watch them play and lounge around the Drinking Dinosaur rock formation. If you’re a wildlife lover, this place is absolutely for you. We wrapped up our lovely few days with the most delicious ice cream before embarking on the long drive back to the Midlands.

Helsinki 🇫🇮

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We arrived late in the evening after the ferry ride from Tallinn. The ferry was huge, with plenty of bars and shops, as well a live band and karaoke! We jumped in a Bolt to our last hotel of the stay – we knew it was close proximity to the station, but didn’t expect to look out the window straight onto the train platform. So for the 2nd hotel of the trip, complimentary earplugs were supplied. That being said, we weren’t disturbed by them at all!

Breakfast was a rowdy affair, as this hotel was much bigger and busier than any we had stayed in for the last week. But there was still plenty of options, and we took advantage of all the freshly baked breads and pastries, ready for a day of exploring.

We started by getting a ferry over to Suomenlinna – a must see when in Helsinki. A UNESCO World Heritage site, it’s made up of a group of eight islands that together form a sea fortress.  We got off the boat, grabbed a map from the visitors centre, and headed out to see what the island had to offer.  One of the first things you come to is Suomenlinna church, which also functions as a lighthouse, making it one of the only dual purpose churches in the world. The rest of the first section of the island we found quite underwhelming, and it would definitely look better with a bit more green on the trees. Once we got to the Kustaanmiekka sand banks and artillery however, the scenery became a lot more intertesting, and definitely worth coming for. Most of the cafes on the island were shut due to being out of season, but I can imagine Suomenlinna gets absolutely rammed during the summer months. 

Helsinki Cathedral – The church is built in the shape of a Greek cross and the central dome of the Cathedral rises to more than 80 metres above sea level.

Uspenski Cathedral – Considered to be the largest Orthodox temple in Northern and Western Europe. The central cupola of the cathedral is 33 meters high. 

Old Market Hall – Relatively small inside, but full of local produce, and is perfect for those who love fish. Also check out the Market Square – look out for the orange tents (which are heated in the winter months). It sells produce, treats, crafts and souvenirs. It is opposite here that you catch the ferry to Suomenlinna.

Sibelius Monument – Perfect to pop by on your way to Regatta Cafe. It resembles large church organ pipes and is dedicated to the Finnish composer – Sibelius. 

Regatta Cafe – The ‘must visit’ cafe.  The traditional red cottage cafe has brought a part of the Finnish countryside to Helsinki, and is famous for their cinnamon buns and hot chocolate. We tried both, and have to say they were delicious. Expect a queue as its very popular. We were lucky and were able to get one of the few seats inside. 

Temppeliaukio Church – Built directly into solid rock, it’s also known as The Rock Church. Very interesting to see the architecture, but at €8pp it was way too expensive for what it was. I was expecting guides and access to a toilet – unfortunately you don’t get either.

We finished off our day in Helsinki with yet another Newcastle game. We found a sports bar, got settled in, and then they changed the game for NHL instead 🤣 the next nearest option was an Irish bar. It was smelly and sticky, with dirty glasses (we were told that’s all they had 🤷🏼‍♀️) and strange people.. but it had the game on, and that meant Mark got to see them beat Blues. A perfect end to the trip!

So, was Helsinki worth it? We definitely wouldn’t recommend it as a stand-alone trip. However, the flights here can be super cheap, so it is a perfect place for 24 hours before going onto Tallinn. Being Finland, it’s obviously a lot more expensive. We went to another bar after the Irish Bar, and a pint & 2 packets of crisps cost €18!! There’s certainly no ‘old town vibe’, it’s just another busy and modern city. 

Tallinn 🇪🇪

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The journey to Tallinn on the Lux Express was super comfortable thanks to our extra leg room and recliner seats – it was definitely worth the extra money for the boujee section of the bus. The journey was smooth, aside from the police pulling us over and getting on to inspect everyone’s documents. Luckily all was well, and we arrived to a very dark and deserted bus station. Thank god for Bolt as we were literally in the arse end of nowhere! We got checked in, then Mark forced me out at gone 10pm to find a sports bar to support the mighty toon army in the Carabao Cup semi final. Although highly rated, the Unibet bar was nearly empty, but it meant we had a pick of the TVs and super speedy bar service. We also accidently ordered a huge plate of bar snacks…

After another hearty breakfast of meats and cheeses, we set out to explore Tallinn. Again, not heading to the old town first, but to Telliskivi Creative City – located in the Kalamaja neighbourhood in a former mechanic and locomotive factory. Very vibrant and edgy, this colourful part of town is also full of cafes, bars and independent shops. Urban photographers could literally spend hours here as there is art work and murals on every surface. Its also home to art festivals, concerts, comedy shows and experimental theatre during the warmer months. 

Next to Telliskivi is Balti Jaama Turg – once a typical soviet market, its now an impressive space selling local produce, with cafes and bars, street food, antiques and vintage clothes. Another place where plenty of time is needed to properly explore, and an extra suitcase for all the treasures you’d want to buy! We had a vastlakukkel (fresh bun filled with cream) from one of the vendors, and it was absolutely delicious. 

We headed over to Tallinn’s Old Town, and in contrast to Vilnius and Riga, it was quite bustling! There are many streets and passageways to explore, but as we were losing daylight, we knew we would have to save most of our exploration for the following day. We did manage to visit the impressive Alexander Nevsky Cathedral, located at the top of Toompea Hill. It is certainly one of the most unique architectural pieces in the city. Completed in 1900, when Estonia was part of the Russian Empire, the cathedral was built as part of the Russification policy in the 19th century, directly across from Toompea Castle to demonstrate Russian supremacy.

Just for a change, we fancied having a few beverages in some of Tallinn’s many pubs. First was Hell Hunt, for a plate of bar snacks, including pig tongue (very hammy, slightly tougher texture.. Actually very nice!) and a try of their vast selection of beers, and Mikkeller, because Mark loved it so much in Copenhagen. After being well watered, we headed over to the highly rated Olde Hansa, where you are transported to the medieval era. Think 15th-century merchant house, it has period décor, furniture, and even costumed staff who address you as lord and lady. Everything is by candlelight to try and keep it as authentic as possible. There’s even a traditional troubadour band on certain days, and we were lucky enough to have them playing for us. As our bellies were still full from the bar snacks, we opted to have a few small plates, and it was actually really tasty! We finished off with some schnapps, which were quite awful 🤣 even though its very very touristy thing to do and the food is pretty expensive, we really enjoyed the evening here and would highly recommend it.

The next morning we woke up to something we haven’t yet has on this trip.. Blue sky! We started the day by walking part of the city walls from Hellemann, where you are able to walk the longest section that is open to the public. The oldest part originates from the 13th century, and taking shape over the next three centuries, became the greatest and strongest defence system in Northern Europe. 

There are two viewpoints – Patkuli and Kohtuotsa – within very close proximity of each other that offer great views across the city. I just wish more people followed the photography etiquette of standing in a line to take the photo, and not just pushing in (just so British and love a queue) and then moving out the way once you’ve taken the photo. 

The oldest pharmacy – The oldest pharmacy in Europe that has continually operated on the same premises. It was first mentioned in town records in 1422. Unfortunately, the museum is currently closed for renovation works

Vitu gate – This was part of the defence system of the Tallinn city wall built in the 14th century, and is the main gateway into the old town from the new town. The gate is the only thing that remains standing from the previous wall, which was demolished in 1880.

We spent the rest of the day wandering around and getting lost in the cobbled streets, each turn full of charm and beauty – this is the best way to see the city, as you never know what is around the corner. 

As you know, we always like to try local things when travelling, and a google search suggested we tried Kohuke – a curd snack covered in chocolate. We got a few different options, but unfortunately, we did not find these a taste sensation. They were foul 🤣 and after one bite of each one, hoping one would at least be edible, we decided the correct place for them was in the bin. 

It was time to head back to the hotel ready for the final stretch of our travels – the ferry to Helsinki.

We’ve really enjoyed our time in Tallinn. Even though Estonia has the smallest population of the Baltic states, it definitely packs the biggest punch. We actually wished we had an extra day so we could take a trip to the frozen waterfall. Although the first impression at the bus stop was again, where the hell are we.. We soon changed our minds. It is one of the best preserved medieval cities, but has the perfect mix of old and new, as well as so many beautiful and colourful buildings, a vast range of bars, cafes and restaurants, and the locals even seem to enjoy the old town too! It also feels very Nordic, without the hefty Nordic price tag.

Riga 🇱🇻

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The journey to Riga on the Flixbus was surprisingly comfortable, although despite it being advertised, it didn’t come with charging points, WiFi or a toilet.. We did get the quickest wee stop at a Circle K, however I’m also not convinced he even checked everyone was back on-board 😂 in 4 hours we arrived, and got our first feel for Riga. The bus station had an interesting vibe, with some rather questionable characters hanging around, making our five-minute trek to the hotel feel a bit twitchy arse — late-night subway walks are never the most reassuring! But as soon as we stepped into our hotel lobby, we were welcomed by a glorious fragrance, and we headed up to check out our room for the next 2 nights. It was huge, with a separate room for clothes and cases, and floral wallpaper reminiscent of the early 00s. The only hiccup was discovering how close we were to the train line, with each passing train shaking the room like a mini earthquake. Despite this, we had a great sleep. 

We started off our day in Riga, not in the old town, but heading over the river to the Holy Trinity Orthodox Church. The route here is definitely not touristy and very much off the beaten track, but we actually loved that. It was abandoned and eerie at times, but it gave us a taste of local life. The church was completed in 1893, and the red belfry with striking blue domes can be seen from a fair distance away.  A short stroll from the church brought us to the Āgenskalns Market, the largest and oldest market in the neighbourhood, bustling with the rhythms of daily life. Split across two vibrant floors, the market was filled with an array of local produce, from fresh vegetables to artisanal bread, showcasing the best of Latvian ingredients. We had some delicious coffee, paired perfectly with a slice of wood-fired pizza. We walked back through the snow-covered Uzvaras (victory) park, which stands as a reminder of Latvia’s complex historical journey. Here is the ‘carved tree’ which is adorned with an array of intricate carvings, each telling a unique story that reflects the rich history and folklore of the region.

After crossing back across the river, we were eager to dive into the charm of the old town, only to discover it was completely deserted! So, we headed to one of the best viewpoints
at the top of St Peter’s Church. Although quite pricey at €9pp (the church itself isn’t worth spending time looking around), it’s definitely worth it for the retro staircase to the lift and the 360° views across the city. Plus, there’s no glass or mesh obstructing
your view, so you can capture those perfect photos without any hassle. The lift attendant however couldn’t be any less arsed about his paying guests 😂 Facebook is much more important. 

We strolled through another park to the Freedom Monument, prominenly situated at the entrance to the old town. It serves as a powerful symbol of Latvian statehood, reflecting the enduring values of national unity, independence, and freedom. At the base of the monument, a two-man honour guard stands vigil, a poignant representation of Latvia’s sovereignty and pride. We continued further to the gold domes of Nativity of Christ Orthodox Cathedral, the largest Orthodox cathedral in the Baltic provinces. It survived the Soviet era, and restoration efforts began in the 1990s, driven by a strong desire within the community to reclaim their heritage and spirituality, allowing it to become a sacred sanctuary once more. Despite the bitter cold cutting through our layers, we stayed to watch the locals do their tricks on the ice rink next to the cathedral, before heading back into town to find something to eat.

We had planned to just have drinks in ‘Two More Beers’, as a lot of the menu was very I’m a Celebrity (think pigs ears and bulls penis) but we managed to find ‘normal burgers’ on the menu, and ended up staying for nearly 3 hours whilst Mark made his way through their extensive beer selection. Due to the time of year, most of the pubs were dead, with only a small handful of people in them. We spotted a bar that was absolutely rammed, so decided to check out what was occurring. Turns out they were in the middle of a pub quiz, and we joined during the all important music round (between us, we got them all correct!). 

The following morning we spent exploring another neighbourhood. Lastadija is known as the artistic quarter and is a project of the Free Riga union – dedicated to breathing new life into abandoned houses and transforming them into hubs for cultural and artistic endeavors, as well as residential spaces. Just down the road is the Latvian Academy of Science building. This striking example of Soviet architecture that dominates the skyline is hated by the locals, as they refer to it as Stalin’s Birthday Cake. In contrast to this is the Annunciation of Our Most Holy Lady Church, with its exterior of gold and green. As this area is just a short walk from the central market, it’s definitely worth the detour. 

The Central Market is one of the largest in Eastern Europe, and the building was originally used as military airship hangars. It’s full of diverse and colourful produce, and I was looking forward to the smell of the fresh fruit and veg section. Unfortunately this is also shared with the fishmongers 🤢 potential unpopular opinion.. we preferred the Āgenskalns Market, but central is still worth the visit.

We headed over to Alberta Street, known as Riga’s Art Nouveu gem. The buildings are decorated with sculptures, balconies, columns, and other elements characteristic to this style. They survived World War II and decades of Soviet occupation, and you could definitely spend ages here just gazing up at the beautiful buildings.

We spent the rest of our time in Riga just wandering around the old town, and stopping for a delicious treat from Cruffins before the next leg of our trip. As a treat, I booked us extra leg room and extendable seats in the Lux Express to Tallinn.

So is Riga worth the visit? It’s full of history, beautiful buildings, a ridiculous amount of bars/restaurants, easy to get around on foot and it would definitely be a perfect Christmas market destination. However for the time of year we went, there just wasn’t really any atmosphere, and if was very much like a ghost town. The old town felt very geared to tourists, and around the train station felt very uncomfortable. But 48hrs was the perfect amount of time and we would defo recommend it.

Vilnius 🇱🇹

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What to do with 10 days off? Visit 4 different countries of course! We will be journeying through Lithuania, Latvia, Estonia and Finland – spending around 48 hours in each of their capital cities. 

The drive to Stansted was so pain free that we had a whole hour before we could get into the car park – look at us getting somewhere early! We used the time wisely by having a Subway and a Starbucks (still extortionate services prices, but at least not as insane as airport prices). The midstay car park was very reasonable with plenty of parking spaces, and after a 10 minute shuttle bus, we were at the terminal building ready to start our adventure. Security was empty – but unfortunately my boots kept setting off various machines. After multiple shoe swabs and leg frisks, I was eventually allowed into the Duty Free for the obligatory cheeky squirt of the most expensive perfume. We had a few beverages and a ridiculously expensive bowl of nachos in Spoons, before boarding the delight that is Ryanair for our flight to Vilnius.

Everything went very smoothly, and after grabbing our bags, we got a Bolt to our hotel where we spent the next 2 nights.

As Vilnius itself is quite small, for the first day we decided to take the bus to the well-preserved historical village of Trakai. The half hour bus, followed by a half hour walk past some bright coloured houses, makes it the perfect half day trip to the former capital of Lithuania. The main attractions is the island castle, and the cold, crisp, February Sunday also meant there was hardly any tourists about. As the snow began to fall, we crossed the wooden bridge to the castle standing proudly against the backdrop of winter. Whilst we could have ventured inside, we opted to explore the outside castle grounds instead. We could only imagine how the lake would transform into a watersport hotspot in the summer, but on this chilly day, it was a tranquil haven for a few local ducks. As the temperature continued to drop, we popped into a cafe for some hot wine, a beer, and of course, sample their homemade specialities of kibinai and honey cake. We headed back to the bus stop, but unfortunately didn’t realise the bus we had planned was weekday only.. Leaving us time to mooch around the local supermarket whilst we waited for the next one.

We always have a keen eye for weird and wonderful street art in the different places we visit, and just a short walk from the bus station is the Open Gallery. Open all year round, it has more than 50 pieces of art, and being located by a steel factory gives it that edgy and atmospheric vibe. 

On our way back to the hotel, we decided to pop into the 2D cafe, located in the Museum of Illusion. Usually these sort of places are all about the Insta or Tiktok, but the coffee and cake was actually very nice! 

We love trying traditional food when we travel, so we were buzzing to find a restaurant that offered a sharing plate full of local dishes! The Farmers Feast was a treat, featuring potato dumplings, crispy potato pancakes, potato wedges (can you see the theme 😂), along with succulent sausages, smoked pork, and stewed cabbage. All of that for just €25! It was mostly a fantastic meal, though we did find the potato-stuffed baked sausage a bit of a letdown—it just didn’t do it for us. 

To finish off the evening, we had some drinks in a cute little bar whilst watching the following scene unfold: Hamilton and his 65-year-old dad trying their best to charm a couple of young Lithuanian women. The dad was really going for it with lines like, “I used to be a rock climber, so I’m good with my hands and know how to use rope!” Here’s hoping they managed to escape…

The next morning we woke up to a blanket of the white stuff! So we donned our warm clothes and headed out to explore Vilnius in the snow. But first, a trip to the opticians to get a contact lens pot for Mark. She didn’t speak English, and Mark doesn’t speak Lithuanian. Luckily, they both appreciate a game of Charades, and she soon realised what he was after.

Three Crosses Hill – a prominent monument often illuminated in different colours to commemorate Lithuanian special events. Also great views across the city.

Gediminas’ Hill – one of the highest points in Vilnius old town with views over the Neris River. Didn’t realise there was a funicular to the top.. Fuming 😂

Cathedral square – home to the cathedral and bell tower. The cathedral is neoclassical style, resembling a Greek temple, and the tower is one of the cities oldest brick buildings. There is also the memorial plaque which marks the end of the longest ever human chain – in 1989, approximately two million people joined hands across Lithuania, Latvia and Estonia to make the Baltic Way.

Užupis – the smallest district in Vilnius. On 1st April 1997, Užupis declared independence, and since then, the community celebrates independence day every year on April Fools Day. An independent republic has to have money, power, an anthem and constitution, and above all, a free spirit. You will find all of this in Užupis.

Literatų street – a short, narrow street mostly known for public display of decorative and artistic plaques. These are dedicated to writers who have lived and worked in Vilnius or otherwise have shared a connection with Vilnius and Lithuania.

There’s a wealth of churches in Vilnius – 28 in the old town alone! Here is a selection…

It was time to head back to the hotel, grab the cases and get a Bolt to the coach station, ready to catch the Flixbus to Riga. 

If you find yourself with a few days off and are seeking an adventure with affordable flights to a budget-friendly city, consider adding Vilnius to your itinerary. It may not boast traditional beauty, but it certainly possesses a unique charm all its own. The city is clean, and while the locals might not have seemed particularly ‘warm’ towards us—perhaps influenced by their own history—we always felt a sense of safety wandering the streets. It’s a reminder of how different places can shape our experiences in unexpected ways.