Tallinn 🇪🇪

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The journey to Tallinn on the Lux Express was super comfortable thanks to our extra leg room and recliner seats – it was definitely worth the extra money for the boujee section of the bus. The journey was smooth, aside from the police pulling us over and getting on to inspect everyone’s documents. Luckily all was well, and we arrived to a very dark and deserted bus station. Thank god for Bolt as we were literally in the arse end of nowhere! We got checked in, then Mark forced me out at gone 10pm to find a sports bar to support the mighty toon army in the Carabao Cup semi final. Although highly rated, the Unibet bar was nearly empty, but it meant we had a pick of the TVs and super speedy bar service. We also accidently ordered a huge plate of bar snacks…

After another hearty breakfast of meats and cheeses, we set out to explore Tallinn. Again, not heading to the old town first, but to Telliskivi Creative City – located in the Kalamaja neighbourhood in a former mechanic and locomotive factory. Very vibrant and edgy, this colourful part of town is also full of cafes, bars and independent shops. Urban photographers could literally spend hours here as there is art work and murals on every surface. Its also home to art festivals, concerts, comedy shows and experimental theatre during the warmer months. 

Next to Telliskivi is Balti Jaama Turg – once a typical soviet market, its now an impressive space selling local produce, with cafes and bars, street food, antiques and vintage clothes. Another place where plenty of time is needed to properly explore, and an extra suitcase for all the treasures you’d want to buy! We had a vastlakukkel (fresh bun filled with cream) from one of the vendors, and it was absolutely delicious. 

We headed over to Tallinn’s Old Town, and in contrast to Vilnius and Riga, it was quite bustling! There are many streets and passageways to explore, but as we were losing daylight, we knew we would have to save most of our exploration for the following day. We did manage to visit the impressive Alexander Nevsky Cathedral, located at the top of Toompea Hill. It is certainly one of the most unique architectural pieces in the city. Completed in 1900, when Estonia was part of the Russian Empire, the cathedral was built as part of the Russification policy in the 19th century, directly across from Toompea Castle to demonstrate Russian supremacy.

Just for a change, we fancied having a few beverages in some of Tallinn’s many pubs. First was Hell Hunt, for a plate of bar snacks, including pig tongue (very hammy, slightly tougher texture.. Actually very nice!) and a try of their vast selection of beers, and Mikkeller, because Mark loved it so much in Copenhagen. After being well watered, we headed over to the highly rated Olde Hansa, where you are transported to the medieval era. Think 15th-century merchant house, it has period décor, furniture, and even costumed staff who address you as lord and lady. Everything is by candlelight to try and keep it as authentic as possible. There’s even a traditional troubadour band on certain days, and we were lucky enough to have them playing for us. As our bellies were still full from the bar snacks, we opted to have a few small plates, and it was actually really tasty! We finished off with some schnapps, which were quite awful 🤣 even though its very very touristy thing to do and the food is pretty expensive, we really enjoyed the evening here and would highly recommend it.

The next morning we woke up to something we haven’t yet has on this trip.. Blue sky! We started the day by walking part of the city walls from Hellemann, where you are able to walk the longest section that is open to the public. The oldest part originates from the 13th century, and taking shape over the next three centuries, became the greatest and strongest defence system in Northern Europe. 

There are two viewpoints – Patkuli and Kohtuotsa – within very close proximity of each other that offer great views across the city. I just wish more people followed the photography etiquette of standing in a line to take the photo, and not just pushing in (just so British and love a queue) and then moving out the way once you’ve taken the photo. 

The oldest pharmacy – The oldest pharmacy in Europe that has continually operated on the same premises. It was first mentioned in town records in 1422. Unfortunately, the museum is currently closed for renovation works

Vitu gate – This was part of the defence system of the Tallinn city wall built in the 14th century, and is the main gateway into the old town from the new town. The gate is the only thing that remains standing from the previous wall, which was demolished in 1880.

We spent the rest of the day wandering around and getting lost in the cobbled streets, each turn full of charm and beauty – this is the best way to see the city, as you never know what is around the corner. 

As you know, we always like to try local things when travelling, and a google search suggested we tried Kohuke – a curd snack covered in chocolate. We got a few different options, but unfortunately, we did not find these a taste sensation. They were foul 🤣 and after one bite of each one, hoping one would at least be edible, we decided the correct place for them was in the bin. 

It was time to head back to the hotel ready for the final stretch of our travels – the ferry to Helsinki.

We’ve really enjoyed our time in Tallinn. Even though Estonia has the smallest population of the Baltic states, it definitely packs the biggest punch. We actually wished we had an extra day so we could take a trip to the frozen waterfall. Although the first impression at the bus stop was again, where the hell are we.. We soon changed our minds. It is one of the best preserved medieval cities, but has the perfect mix of old and new, as well as so many beautiful and colourful buildings, a vast range of bars, cafes and restaurants, and the locals even seem to enjoy the old town too! It also feels very Nordic, without the hefty Nordic price tag.

Riga 🇱🇻

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The journey to Riga on the Flixbus was surprisingly comfortable, although despite it being advertised, it didn’t come with charging points, WiFi or a toilet.. We did get the quickest wee stop at a Circle K, however I’m also not convinced he even checked everyone was back on-board 😂 in 4 hours we arrived, and got our first feel for Riga. The bus station had an interesting vibe, with some rather questionable characters hanging around, making our five-minute trek to the hotel feel a bit twitchy arse — late-night subway walks are never the most reassuring! But as soon as we stepped into our hotel lobby, we were welcomed by a glorious fragrance, and we headed up to check out our room for the next 2 nights. It was huge, with a separate room for clothes and cases, and floral wallpaper reminiscent of the early 00s. The only hiccup was discovering how close we were to the train line, with each passing train shaking the room like a mini earthquake. Despite this, we had a great sleep. 

We started off our day in Riga, not in the old town, but heading over the river to the Holy Trinity Orthodox Church. The route here is definitely not touristy and very much off the beaten track, but we actually loved that. It was abandoned and eerie at times, but it gave us a taste of local life. The church was completed in 1893, and the red belfry with striking blue domes can be seen from a fair distance away.  A short stroll from the church brought us to the Āgenskalns Market, the largest and oldest market in the neighbourhood, bustling with the rhythms of daily life. Split across two vibrant floors, the market was filled with an array of local produce, from fresh vegetables to artisanal bread, showcasing the best of Latvian ingredients. We had some delicious coffee, paired perfectly with a slice of wood-fired pizza. We walked back through the snow-covered Uzvaras (victory) park, which stands as a reminder of Latvia’s complex historical journey. Here is the ‘carved tree’ which is adorned with an array of intricate carvings, each telling a unique story that reflects the rich history and folklore of the region.

After crossing back across the river, we were eager to dive into the charm of the old town, only to discover it was completely deserted! So, we headed to one of the best viewpoints
at the top of St Peter’s Church. Although quite pricey at €9pp (the church itself isn’t worth spending time looking around), it’s definitely worth it for the retro staircase to the lift and the 360° views across the city. Plus, there’s no glass or mesh obstructing
your view, so you can capture those perfect photos without any hassle. The lift attendant however couldn’t be any less arsed about his paying guests 😂 Facebook is much more important. 

We strolled through another park to the Freedom Monument, prominenly situated at the entrance to the old town. It serves as a powerful symbol of Latvian statehood, reflecting the enduring values of national unity, independence, and freedom. At the base of the monument, a two-man honour guard stands vigil, a poignant representation of Latvia’s sovereignty and pride. We continued further to the gold domes of Nativity of Christ Orthodox Cathedral, the largest Orthodox cathedral in the Baltic provinces. It survived the Soviet era, and restoration efforts began in the 1990s, driven by a strong desire within the community to reclaim their heritage and spirituality, allowing it to become a sacred sanctuary once more. Despite the bitter cold cutting through our layers, we stayed to watch the locals do their tricks on the ice rink next to the cathedral, before heading back into town to find something to eat.

We had planned to just have drinks in ‘Two More Beers’, as a lot of the menu was very I’m a Celebrity (think pigs ears and bulls penis) but we managed to find ‘normal burgers’ on the menu, and ended up staying for nearly 3 hours whilst Mark made his way through their extensive beer selection. Due to the time of year, most of the pubs were dead, with only a small handful of people in them. We spotted a bar that was absolutely rammed, so decided to check out what was occurring. Turns out they were in the middle of a pub quiz, and we joined during the all important music round (between us, we got them all correct!). 

The following morning we spent exploring another neighbourhood. Lastadija is known as the artistic quarter and is a project of the Free Riga union – dedicated to breathing new life into abandoned houses and transforming them into hubs for cultural and artistic endeavors, as well as residential spaces. Just down the road is the Latvian Academy of Science building. This striking example of Soviet architecture that dominates the skyline is hated by the locals, as they refer to it as Stalin’s Birthday Cake. In contrast to this is the Annunciation of Our Most Holy Lady Church, with its exterior of gold and green. As this area is just a short walk from the central market, it’s definitely worth the detour. 

The Central Market is one of the largest in Eastern Europe, and the building was originally used as military airship hangars. It’s full of diverse and colourful produce, and I was looking forward to the smell of the fresh fruit and veg section. Unfortunately this is also shared with the fishmongers 🤢 potential unpopular opinion.. we preferred the Āgenskalns Market, but central is still worth the visit.

We headed over to Alberta Street, known as Riga’s Art Nouveu gem. The buildings are decorated with sculptures, balconies, columns, and other elements characteristic to this style. They survived World War II and decades of Soviet occupation, and you could definitely spend ages here just gazing up at the beautiful buildings.

We spent the rest of our time in Riga just wandering around the old town, and stopping for a delicious treat from Cruffins before the next leg of our trip. As a treat, I booked us extra leg room and extendable seats in the Lux Express to Tallinn.

So is Riga worth the visit? It’s full of history, beautiful buildings, a ridiculous amount of bars/restaurants, easy to get around on foot and it would definitely be a perfect Christmas market destination. However for the time of year we went, there just wasn’t really any atmosphere, and if was very much like a ghost town. The old town felt very geared to tourists, and around the train station felt very uncomfortable. But 48hrs was the perfect amount of time and we would defo recommend it.

Vilnius 🇱🇹

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What to do with 10 days off? Visit 4 different countries of course! We will be journeying through Lithuania, Latvia, Estonia and Finland – spending around 48 hours in each of their capital cities. 

The drive to Stansted was so pain free that we had a whole hour before we could get into the car park – look at us getting somewhere early! We used the time wisely by having a Subway and a Starbucks (still extortionate services prices, but at least not as insane as airport prices). The midstay car park was very reasonable with plenty of parking spaces, and after a 10 minute shuttle bus, we were at the terminal building ready to start our adventure. Security was empty – but unfortunately my boots kept setting off various machines. After multiple shoe swabs and leg frisks, I was eventually allowed into the Duty Free for the obligatory cheeky squirt of the most expensive perfume. We had a few beverages and a ridiculously expensive bowl of nachos in Spoons, before boarding the delight that is Ryanair for our flight to Vilnius.

Everything went very smoothly, and after grabbing our bags, we got a Bolt to our hotel where we spent the next 2 nights.

As Vilnius itself is quite small, for the first day we decided to take the bus to the well-preserved historical village of Trakai. The half hour bus, followed by a half hour walk past some bright coloured houses, makes it the perfect half day trip to the former capital of Lithuania. The main attractions is the island castle, and the cold, crisp, February Sunday also meant there was hardly any tourists about. As the snow began to fall, we crossed the wooden bridge to the castle standing proudly against the backdrop of winter. Whilst we could have ventured inside, we opted to explore the outside castle grounds instead. We could only imagine how the lake would transform into a watersport hotspot in the summer, but on this chilly day, it was a tranquil haven for a few local ducks. As the temperature continued to drop, we popped into a cafe for some hot wine, a beer, and of course, sample their homemade specialities of kibinai and honey cake. We headed back to the bus stop, but unfortunately didn’t realise the bus we had planned was weekday only.. Leaving us time to mooch around the local supermarket whilst we waited for the next one.

We always have a keen eye for weird and wonderful street art in the different places we visit, and just a short walk from the bus station is the Open Gallery. Open all year round, it has more than 50 pieces of art, and being located by a steel factory gives it that edgy and atmospheric vibe. 

On our way back to the hotel, we decided to pop into the 2D cafe, located in the Museum of Illusion. Usually these sort of places are all about the Insta or Tiktok, but the coffee and cake was actually very nice! 

We love trying traditional food when we travel, so we were buzzing to find a restaurant that offered a sharing plate full of local dishes! The Farmers Feast was a treat, featuring potato dumplings, crispy potato pancakes, potato wedges (can you see the theme 😂), along with succulent sausages, smoked pork, and stewed cabbage. All of that for just €25! It was mostly a fantastic meal, though we did find the potato-stuffed baked sausage a bit of a letdown—it just didn’t do it for us. 

To finish off the evening, we had some drinks in a cute little bar whilst watching the following scene unfold: Hamilton and his 65-year-old dad trying their best to charm a couple of young Lithuanian women. The dad was really going for it with lines like, “I used to be a rock climber, so I’m good with my hands and know how to use rope!” Here’s hoping they managed to escape…

The next morning we woke up to a blanket of the white stuff! So we donned our warm clothes and headed out to explore Vilnius in the snow. But first, a trip to the opticians to get a contact lens pot for Mark. She didn’t speak English, and Mark doesn’t speak Lithuanian. Luckily, they both appreciate a game of Charades, and she soon realised what he was after.

Three Crosses Hill – a prominent monument often illuminated in different colours to commemorate Lithuanian special events. Also great views across the city.

Gediminas’ Hill – one of the highest points in Vilnius old town with views over the Neris River. Didn’t realise there was a funicular to the top.. Fuming 😂

Cathedral square – home to the cathedral and bell tower. The cathedral is neoclassical style, resembling a Greek temple, and the tower is one of the cities oldest brick buildings. There is also the memorial plaque which marks the end of the longest ever human chain – in 1989, approximately two million people joined hands across Lithuania, Latvia and Estonia to make the Baltic Way.

Užupis – the smallest district in Vilnius. On 1st April 1997, Užupis declared independence, and since then, the community celebrates independence day every year on April Fools Day. An independent republic has to have money, power, an anthem and constitution, and above all, a free spirit. You will find all of this in Užupis.

Literatų street – a short, narrow street mostly known for public display of decorative and artistic plaques. These are dedicated to writers who have lived and worked in Vilnius or otherwise have shared a connection with Vilnius and Lithuania.

There’s a wealth of churches in Vilnius – 28 in the old town alone! Here is a selection…

It was time to head back to the hotel, grab the cases and get a Bolt to the coach station, ready to catch the Flixbus to Riga. 

If you find yourself with a few days off and are seeking an adventure with affordable flights to a budget-friendly city, consider adding Vilnius to your itinerary. It may not boast traditional beauty, but it certainly possesses a unique charm all its own. The city is clean, and while the locals might not have seemed particularly ‘warm’ towards us—perhaps influenced by their own history—we always felt a sense of safety wandering the streets. It’s a reminder of how different places can shape our experiences in unexpected ways.

Wales 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿

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It’s Santa’s birthday week, and he’s chosen to celebrate by spending a few days in Wales. We packed up the car and set out on the 3 and half hour drive to our Airbnb base. To break up the journey, we stopped for a stretch and a breath of fresh air at Penllergare Valley Woods, a hidden gem that lies just off the M4. This peaceful spot was once the estate of John Dillwyn Llewelyn. We walked through the winding woodland trails, surrounded by towering trees (unfortunately some of which didn’t survive Darragh) and the rushing sound of the waterfall. There’s also quaint bridges, chirping birds and scampering squirrels. The various paths and routes however weren’t well marked, making us especially grateful for our trusty Alltrails app to guide the way. 

As we arrived at our destination, we were pleased to discover that we’d found yet another quirky Airbnb. Nestled in the picturesque village of St Dogmaels, located on the scenic estuary of the River Teifi, our cozy cottage oozed charm and character. We were pleased to to find a welcome gift left by our host – a bottle of Prosecco, and some KitKats, which Santa eagerly scoffed.

St Dogmeals – we kicked off our adventure by exploring the village, and what luck it was that our first day landed on a Tuesday, because that meant diving straight into the award winning local food market! Although not as big as I had hoped, it was still bustling and sold goods such as fruit, veg, cheese and cakes. Santa tried his luck at the tombola and hit the jackpot with a bottle of delicious Welsh cider—what a delightful surprise! Just a stone’s throw away from the market are the ruins of the abbey, which was built in 1113 and upgraded to abbey status in 1120. It met its fate in 1536 when, along with hundreds of other houses throughout England and Wales with an annual income of less than £200, was suppressed by King Henry VIII. Next to the ruins lies Y Felin, a traditional working water mill that’s one of the last of its kind in Wales! There’s plenty of fresh bread and various types of flour to purchase.

Aberaeron – one of the many colourful seaside towns in Wales. It is thought that this acted as an architectural waymarker to help weary fishermen find their home long after the sun had set. Unfortunately there is a lot of construction work, meaning the views of these rainbow house are currently obscured by cranes. Instead we hopped around many of the independent shops, and enjoyed a coffee and mince pies from one of the local bakeries.

Borth – this sandy beach is the longest in Ceredigion, but the reason we were here was to try and catch the sunken forest. We carefully timed our visit to coincide with low tide, eager to witness the Pine, Oak, Birch, and Willow stumps. The scene was both eerie, reminiscent of something out of a disaster movie, and magical, filled with legend and mystery. There are so many ways to describe this place. It was an experience to walk amongst the remains of this ancient forest, which is estimated to extend twenty miles out into Cardigan Bay. The trees have been carbon-dated and are believed to have died between 4,000 and 6,500 years ago. During our visit, we encountered only a handful of other people. We ended up spending much longer here than we had anticipated because it was all so fascinating. As the tide receded further, more stumps were revealed. We concluded our day with a brief exploration of the sand dunes at Ynyslas before the rain set in. Momma’s camera was put to good use today! 

As it was Santa’s birthday, we made sure we found a restaurant with a suitable beer selection, and he was delighted to try every single one of their own ‘Dai’ craft beers. 

New Quay – the forecast for today was a gloomy one, but luckily our time in this small town was a dry one. The harbour beach is backed by steep limestone cliffs and colourful houses. We met a volunteer who counts the local wildlife, and he helped us spot Bottlenose dolphins swimming and diving as they followed shoals of mackerel into the bay. We also saw seals and a variety of seabirds. We finished our visit by enjoying a teacake that was the size of my head.

Cmwtydu – a beach we didn’t plan to visit but discovered on Google Maps, so we decided to stop by. It’s a hidden gem, offering beautiful views and the sound of crashing waves. The small pebble beach was scattered with the remains of blue lobsters! It was so quiet and secluded in the past that it served as a hideaway for smugglers in the area. There’s a coastal path to explore, but since we had more activities planned, we only managed to walk a small portion of it.

Tresaith – we visited Tresaith a few years ago and decided that seeing the waterfall cascading down onto the beach was worth another trip. Unfortunately, when we arrived, it was pouring rain, the wind was howling, and we hadn’t timed our visit with the tide properly. Although the waterfall could have been accessed by climbing over some rocks, we deemed it too dangerous given the weather, so we admired it from the beach instead. The town was clearly shutdown for the winter, as all the cafes and shops were closed. However, Tresaith is definitely worth visiting during the summer months.

Mwnt – a hidden cove with golden sand, rolling waves, and a Grade I listed church dating back to the 13th century. Unfortunately, it was not only pouring with rain but also getting dark, so our visit to Mwnt was all too brief. I decided to trek up to the top of the hill for a better view, and even on this dreary day, the sights were still fantastic.

Lantern festival – we had a message from out Airbnb host to say Cardigan was hosting their postponed lantern festival, so we decided to walk down to the town to check it out. Despite the bad weather, the turnout was great, and you could truly feel the community spirit. We were even treated to a fireworks display! It was a wonderful way to spend our last evening of the trip. Once back at the house, Santa enjoyed some port and nearly a whole block of Welsh cheese!

Poppit Sands – before we began our long drive home, we decided to take a walk along Poppit Sands. It turned out to be quite a bracing experience! The wind was fierce, sand was blowing everywhere, and the waves were crashing; we were struggling to walk, but we loved it! After that, we thought, “Why not?” and also squeezed in a visit to Newcastle Emlyn and Cenarth Falls.

Porto Day 2 🇵🇹

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Our prayers were answered as we woke up to glorious weather. With the sun shining, we quickly adjusted our plans to revisit some of the stunning churches from yesterday, as the blue sky would really make the tiles pop. 

The Cat – a bright blue painted one, and a real ginger one. Obviously he deserved a bit of money as we couldn’t see him go hungry! Unfortunately the Cat Momma hadn’t seen my Momma put her money in, and started telling her off for taking a photo and ‘not paying’. Despite her earnest attempts to communicate (by repeatedly pointing at the coins and herself) the lady remained unconvinced, and carried on muttering to herself as we walked off (if only we could understand Portuguese!)

Livraria Lello – another ‘most beautiful’ and this time it’s a bookshop. Thanks to Instagram and TikTok, its popularity has skyrocketed, fueled by rumors that JK Rowling found inspiration for Harry Potter here (even though she has said multiples times that this isn’t true, she’s never even visited!) The entry fee of €8 is credited towards a book purchase, and we secured our timed tickets. Once inside you get the glorious scent of an old book shop, as well as by an art nouveau staircase and colorful stained glass above. However, it was absolutely rammed inside, with everyone trying to get that perfect candid shot. Whilst it truly felt like stepping into Hogwarts, the throngs of people made it hard to fully appreciate the architecture or browse the books—especially with prices soaring three times higher than at Waterstones!

Majestic Cafe – the one where JK definitely went! It’s adorned with antique mirrors, marble sculptures, and an intricately decorated ceiling, making this Art Nouveau gem a feast for the eyes. We were very lucky as we didn’t have to queue at all, but with such an iconic cafe comes an eye-watering price. But we still settled in for a hot drink and pastel de nata while indulging in some people-watching.

With our bellies full, we made our way back to the bridge, ready to cross over to Gaia—the heart of port wine since the 17th century. There was a group of lads lads lads getting ready to jump off the bridge, so of course Momma got ready to take a photo. Cue the non-jumping friend shaking a plastic cup for some Euros. Momma informed him she wasn’t taking a photo of the jumper.. but he definitely knew this was a massive fib! Gaia has over 60 port cellars in the area and 20 open to the public, and it was time for some tastings. Even though Momma doesn’t drink, I managed to coax her into a spot of day drinking, and we enjoyed a Sandeman whilst overlooking the Douro River. We explored Taylor’s, Cockburn’s, and Cálem, marveling at their extensive port collections and gift shops. And of course, we took advantage of their complimentary toilet facilities! We had planned of going on the cable car for some panoramic views, but obviously this was down for maintenance…

Half rabbit – made from recycled materials and rubbish collected from the city. Positioned at the corner of a building, one half is a burst of colors, whilst the other displays the original hues of the materials – hence the name ‘Half Rabbit’. We walked past this quite a few times whilst exploring Gaia, and we couldn’t resist pausing to admire this creative masterpiece!

Sunset – we had planned to watch the sunset from Jardim do Moro, but the overwhelming scent of weed sent us walking up a hill to a nearby monastery instead. We found the perfect spot and positioned ourselves ready to watch the sun go down. Momma then had a tap on the shoulder, and was given the universal sign of ‘can you move, we want to get in’. She definitely wanted to give them the universal sign to ‘f off’, but instead politely declined, telling them we had been there ages. The sunset might not have been the most spectacular, but it was still a nice moment to reflect on our lovely few days in Porto.

Time Out Porto – the ultimate solution when you have no idea what you want to eat. There were lots of fantastic food stalls, and if you love fish, then this is the place to go. If you’re like us and fish is your idea of hell, there are still plenty of options. We had the most delicious pizza and mushroom risotto.

Goodbye Porto – our final morning, and as we prepared to say goodbye to Porto, we squeezed in a few final church visits and a stroll along the river. Of course, we couldn’t leave without one last pastel de nata from the renowned Castro! The Uber ride to the airport was smooth sailing, and all was going well with getting home until a security mishap: I completely forgot about the Um Bongo in my bag! Cue a bollocking from the security lady.

Porto is a perfect ‘48hr city’, and could definitely be done as an extreme day trip. There are lots of hills to climb, but it’s so compact meaning it’s very easy to get about and see everything. From churches to Nata’s on every corner, it is definitely one to add to your list!

Porto Day 1 🇵🇹

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A few days off work means it’s time for a city break! This time, Momma Wood is joining me for a trip to Porto – the second largest city in Portugal. Since we had a late flight from Manchester, we decided to arrive in the area early to explore Quarry Bank Mill, a National Trust site. It’s one of Britain’s greatest industrial heritage sites, featuring a rare surviving eighteenth-century cotton mill surrounded by 400 acres of beautiful woodland and countryside along the River Bollin. There was so much to see, and the two hours we had really wasn’t enough. With a latte in hand (after some not-so-subtle glares at the queue-jumpers) we headed to the mill. There’s 5 different floors to explore, and it offers an immersive and informative experience, with so much machinery and live demonstrations by volunteers. We also had a mooch along the river and soaked up the last of the autumnal colours before heading back to the car for the short drive to terminal 3.

After driving around for ages, we finally found a space in the car park and made our way to the terminal building. Security was surprisingly quick, except for the woman in front of me who had to take out 1001 items from her coat pocket. We had our obligatory cheeky squirt of the most expensive perfume in duty-free, and smelling like a tart’s fart, set out to find some food. We opted for a burger in the pub and ended up sitting next to a very inebriated guy who was excitedly slurring that he had never been on a plane before. I wouldn’t be surprised if that remains the case for him! Our flight was (obviously) delayed by half an hour, but all was well as we know how a Ryanair pilot likes to put their foot down, and we landed on time. Momma seemed to be taking a while at passport control, but was delighted to tell me that it was because the officer at the desk thought she looked younger than her photo—what a flirt!

Thanks to my Genius level on Booking.com, I managed to arrange a free transfer from the airport. The lovely Eduardo picked us up in his massive Mercedes and took us to our hotel. It took us a while to figure out how to get inside (as doors are locked after 8pm) but we were buzzed in and greeted by the most enthusiastic receptionist, who was excited to share all the wonderful things Porto has to offer. He even showed us on the map where he was born! It was refreshing to see someone who truly loves their job. We settled into our room, indulged in our complimentary Nata, and caught up with “Strictly” before heading to bed, ready for a full day of exploration ahead.

We had packed for the glorious forecast of 22° and sunshine. But lo and behold, we woke up to a thick blanket of fog, rain, and a chilly 14°. After demolishing all the cheese and ham at breakfast, we donned our warmest clothes and set out in search of an umbrella. Luckily, we found one at a souvenir shop for €5. I opted for a jumpsuit, but as it’s a Cider special and made for someone who’s 6ft, wearing it in the rain turned into a soggy adventure as the long legs soaked up half of Porto. A quick outfit change back at the hotel was therefore required into something a bit less absorbent. Momma was serving Asda realness as she paraded around in her bright green poncho.

São Bento – the train station that is currently surrounded by lots of construction. Inside, the walls are covered by 20,000 painted tiles, by Jorge Colaço, which illustrate episodes from the History of Portugal. It opened in 1916 and is considered one of the most beautiful train stations in the world.

Igreja de Santo Ildefonso – an 18th century baroque style church, with approximately 11,000 azulejo tiles covering the façade. Momma was getting incredibly annoyed at the amount of people who just walked in front of her while trying to take a photo!

Chapel of Souls – definitely in a tile-counting competition with the previous church, boasting around 16,000 tiles covering the façade. Our plan to take shelter inside was slightly thwarted as we were crammed into the back and rather close to the flickering candles—making us somewhat concerned about how flammable Momma was!

The Twin Churches – between the two churches of Carmo and Carmelitas lies the narrowest building in the city. This tiny house was built to make all contact between the nuns and the monks impossible. Another particularly difficult photo stop – at least we can now erase people from pictures 😉

Miradouro da Vitória – a free viewpoint of the city and full of edgy graffiti. This added an artsy touch to the place making it a fascinating spot to explore. Reviews suggest that it is usually rammed here, so at least the gloomy day came in handy!

Chocolataria das Flores – now feeling peckish, we found this little café down a side street. We placed our order, which arrived with the addition of a (very dry) giant chocolate cookie. As we don’t speak Portuguese, and they didn’t speak particularly good English, we decided against questioning the additional treat. Especially as we noticed other tables had one too. Unfortunately, this wasn’t a complimentary snack and we did have to pay for it. 

Porto Cathedral – one of the city’s oldest and most important local Romanesque monuments. Adjoining the cathedral are the cloisters, and the architectural style is quite eclectic. It’s decorated with Baroque azulejos representing the life of the Virgin Mary. Underneath the poncho, Momma was rocking Portuguese tile chic and blended in nicely. 

Ponte de Dom Luis I – the most famous bridge in Porto, with the mastermind behind its design being a protege of the famed Gustave Eiffel! It has an upper and lower deck and spans along the world-famous Douro River, and as we had a bit of time to kill before our exciting evening plans, we decided to take a stroll along the upper deck. There wasn’t a dramatic sunset, but the twinkling lights across Porto & Gaia still made it very atmospheric.

Fado – this evening I booked an absolute treat! A glass of Port and a Fado show. Momma wasn’t initially keen, but at 13 quid each, it would be silly to not experience this. Fado is a traditional Portuguese folk music genre known for its soulful melodies, expressive vocals, and melancholic character, and often reflect themes of lost sailors, broken hearts, bittersweet romance, fate, reunions, and the passage of time. The musicians were fantastic and the singer had an impressive set of pipes. It’s hard not to feel touched by the performance, even though we had no idea what she was singing. Considering this was the first time they had all sang/played together, they really did put on an excellent show.. although we both agreed that an hour was long enough.

Mcdonald’s – said to be one of the most beautiful McDonald’s in the world, we obviously had to check it out. The Golden Arches took over in 1995 in the space previously occupied by a famous Portuguese coffee shop, which was an icon in the 1930s. The building retained many of the original Art Deco features including the ornate ceilings, chandeliers, and a large stained glass wall, and along with the giant eagle at the entrance makes it the poshest I’ve ever visited! They had a great selection of different food (although lukewarm) and the whole place was so clean. We also realised that we are both obviously lovers of green patterned trousers…

We’ve had an incredibly packed first day in Porto! Here’s hoping tomorrow treats us to blue skies…

The road to Sligo 🇮🇪

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We both really wanted to visit Galway, but the long drive from Doolin, and then the long drive to Rosses Point, meant we had only a few hours to explore. Unfortunately, due to how busy Galway was, we spent a lot of time trying to find somewhere to park. However, we did manage to find a parking space at the tightest car park at Spanish Arch. I was desperate for a wee, and decided to relieve myself in the museum toilets. I never understand why women don’t lock the door, and then have a massive strop at you for opening the door on them when they are mid flow. To make things worse, she was also bent forward, so not only did I disturb her, I also gave her concussion. After getting away from the angry toilet lady, we got straight into the hustle and bustle of the Latin Quarter. Picture vibrant, colourful buildings, cobbled streets, buskers, boutique shops and quirky bars. If we had time, I would have loved to just sit here all day and people watch. 

I had a job of deciding how to spend just a few hours here because there is so much to do. But not being able to see everything gives us a good reason to come back. Mark was obviously thrilled when I suggested that we explore the cathedral. Originally the grounds of the old city jail, it’s now a striking part of the city’s skyline and is the newest of Europe’s great stone cathedrals. It’s modern yet charming inside and is definitely worth
a visit to see the stained glass and mosaics. Feeling peckish after our visit, we stumbled upon a deli that sold the most delicious sandwiches. We decided to sit in their restaurant upstairs to enjoy our meal, but unfortunately, a few rouge wasps were buzzing around which made the experience less enjoyable for Mark. We were eager to have a drink in one of the traditional pubs, and after listening to some street buskers, we found the pub recommended by Nicola Coughlan (Penelope in Bridgerton). It was bustling with a cool vibe, featuring lots of quirky artwork, and both locals and tourists were enjoying the drinks the pub had to offer.

After leaving Galway, we headed to Rosses Point, where we would be staying for the next two nights. The campsite was much larger than the one we had just left, and since we booked late, we ended up with a pitch that had no shelter from the wind. Fortunately, it was a beautiful evening, and we erected the tent quickly. This left us with plenty of time to take a leisurely stroll to the beach with a drink and watch the sunset, as well as observe some brave souls taking a swim at Deadman’s Point (the name alone was enough to keep us on the shore!). Just as we were preparing for bed, I received an alert on my phone informing me that the Aurora was going to be visible that night. I’ve been fortunate enough to see it a few times before, but I figured one more time wouldn’t hurt. So, we grabbed the camera and tripod and made our way through the grass to find a good spot to set up. It turned out that others had also received the same alert, and we all waited with anticipation for something to happen. Unfortunately, hunting for the Aurora doesn’t always lead to success, but the sky was filled with stars, and it was still a lovely evening, with the sound of waves in the distance. We got into bed and I was peacefully sleeping, enjoying the rare calm night with hardly any wind or rain. Just when everything seemed perfect, at 4am I was rudely awakened by the sensation of sinking onto the cold, hard ground. Turns out, our airbed had completely deflated! Ah, the joys of camping!

We had a busy day ahead of us, and thanks to the dry, sunny morning, we were able to have breakfast outside. One of the highly recommended things to do when staying in Sligo is to drive the Gleniff Horseshoe loop, which offers spectacular views of the Dartry Mountains. Ireland is full of hidden treasures, and this is definitely one of them. Unfortunately, by the time we got there, it was raining.. Obviously.. But this added to the dramatic landscape, and the fast racing clouds created an atmospheric setting. We then headed to Mullaghmore beach to take a coastal walk. We always strive to support local businesses, especially when it comes to coffee, and we found a charming coffee van selling the most delicious cakes. A big shout out to Ahoy. The rain had passed, and we were able to explore the rugged coastline, and the great visibility meant we could see Donegal Bay and Benbulben standing tall. You can also see Classiebawn Castle, which is another dominant landmark, and looks like something straight out of Disney! The final stop for the day was to get a closer view of Benbulben and the forest walk that surrounds it. After coming face to face with some sheep who didn’t look too impressed that we were on their path, we were able to admire the mountain in all its rugged glory. Speaking of sheep, there are so many of them perched at the very top on what looks like a vertical surface. Again, thanks to the great visibility, we were able to have stunning views of Classiebawn Castle and Slieve League across Donegal Bay. The trail continues through the forest and back to the car park, and it was a lovely walk to finish off the day.

The great weather we enjoyed earlier took a turn for the worse when we returned to our tent. The classic Irish weather was back in full force – howling wind and lashing rain. We had two choices – Sit in the tent and not relax whilst the wind battered it, or head to the pub and forget about it. We took the 2nd option, and walked to Harry’s Bar. There, we had a blast listening to a traditional music session and Mark indulged in plenty of pints of Guinness. The bar was filled with all sorts of fascinating nautical artifacts, from a piece of the Cutty Sark’s rope to a hammerhead shark skull. It even housed several fish tanks scattered throughout the place. Walking back in the rain, we wondered if our tent had been blown off into the Atlantic, but thankfully, it was still standing! Mark had an lovely time cleaning his teeth while the other blokes at the campsite were dealing with the aftermath of their Guinness intake.

We woke up to more rain, so dismantling the tent and packing everything away was a massive challenge. The tent had also had enough and was now dripping into the ‘living’ area. Of course, as soon as we had everything packed in the car (which took ages), the rain stopped. Camping has certainly been an experience, but we were excited because we knew we would be getting a warm, comfortable bed and a shower that lasted longer than 5 minutes at an Airbnb that evening. We left Rosses Point and headed over to Lovely Leitrim, where we would stay for the next 4 nights.

The road to Doolin 🇮🇪

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After receiving recommendations from our Irish experts Becky and Sheena, we packed up our car with all our camping gear and embarked on our trip to Ireland. We are very new to camping, so a massive shout out to Rachel and Sallyanne for lending us the gear, and to my Mum for coming on the many trips to B&M and Home Bargains to help us find affordable utensils (thank god for ‘starting uni’ prices). To avoid an early start and a long drive, we stayed at a Travelodge in Holyhead the night before sailing. After a good night’s rest, we began our day with a McDonald’s breakfast before boarding the Irish Ferry. Surprisingly, we had booked the fast ferry, so we reached Dublin in just over 2 hours. From there, we drove to Doolin, one of Co. Clare’s most popular villages, where we stayed for the next 2 nights. After navigating through the busiest service station we’d ever been to, some incredibly narrow roads, a man with a big beard telling us to fuck off, and what felt like a thousand tolls, we finally arrived at the campsite.

It turns out trying to get a tent up in the wind is incredibly difficult! And as soon as we had it erected, the heavens opened, and so came the next challenge of trying to get everything from the car into the tent. Thank god for the cheap full length waterproof from Shein! It was Mark’s turn to be chef tonight, and I was treated to the driest carbonara I have ever had (unfortunately I didn’t get a photo of this glorious feast) whilst watching the Olympic closing ceremony. After a quick drink at the local pub, we settled into the tent for our first night of sleep.. and what a noisy night it was! The weather was wild, with wind, rain, thunder, and lightning. At 3am I found myself on booking.com and Airbnb trying to find any sort of alternative accommodation for the following night. We were concerned we would wake up with a floppy tent on top of us, but to our surprise, it held up well, and we woke up dry and surprisingly warm.

We had breakfast outside, and I provided Mark with an equally questionable meal of fried egg sarnie (tried to flip it.. cheap spatula = botched yolk). The weather looked promising, so we decided to visit the Cliffs of Moher. The website recommends booking for people monitoring purposes, but judging by the crowded car park, it seems they want as much money as possible! Finding a parking spot was a nightmare, with cars abandoned everywhere because there was literally nowhere to park. Thankfully, we managed to squeeze in behind a campervan and joined the crowds over at the cliffs. 

Car park queue…

The visitors centre was rammed, and so was the start of the cliff walk. The path is quite narrow (with plenty of people who don’t say thank you for letting them past – this absolutely boils my piss!) however, the crowds soon thinned out and we were able to fully appreciate the beauty of the cliffs. 

Here’s some trivia about the cliffs – they reach up to 214 meters in height at their highest point and stretch on for 5 miles. They have been featured in Harry Potter and the Half-Blood Prince, Leap Year, and that terrible film Irish Wish. It is also a hot spot for flora and fauna, with as many as 20 different species of birds. We enjoyed the rugged and dramatic landscape and the jaw-dropping cliffs. We are glad we visited. However, it is far too busy, with the giant visitors complex, and the continuous 4.5-foot flagstone slabs set 15 feet from the cliff edge to stop silly people from getting too close somewhat ruins the experience. It’s ironic – a tourist complaining about tourists – but it’s true. A place that was once just like any other coastal walk is now being commercialized to the extent that its magic is being stripped away.

As the weather was still glorious, we decided to go to the beach. Lahinch’s crescent-shaped sandy beach attracts people from around the world due to its watersports and surf centre. Since neither of us can surf, we opted for a pizza and sat on the rocks to watch the pros in action. Then we continued along the coast to Spanish Point and grabbed some drinks while listening to a local musician playing the guitar. As the adults weren’t giving him much attention, he asked a group of children what they would like to hear instead.. so we were treated to the wheels on the bus! After refreshing ourselves, we went for a walk to watch the waves crashing along the cliffs. We ended the day with a BBQ, and just as the meat was ready, it started to rain! Fortunately, it was only a brief shower, so we were still able to enjoy the famous Irish beef.

It was another windy night (not just from Mark!), and we knew it must have been bad for the campsite owner to walk past the tent and say, “You survived!” Now came the task of packing away the tent and making everything fit back in the car. Luckily, it wasn’t as long and painful as we thought, so we treated ourselves to a quick look around Doolin and a coffee before the long drive to Galway.

Day 3 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿

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I came downstairs this morning to Santa asking Momma, ‘Is this wood too big?’.. luckily, he was referring to the driftwood he got from his morning beach walk to go in the garden.

Inner Farne As we’re so close to Northumberland, it would be rude not to take a boat trip over to Inner Farne. We booked with Serenity and paid £30pp, with the additional landing fee being free as we’re National Trust members (13pp for non-members). The tour sails around all of the Farne Islands, then lands on the breeding seabird heaven that is Inner Farne. Momma was buzzing to be snapping away, especially after the camera incident whilst in Antarctica 😬 David Attenborough says this is one of his favourite places in the UK to see magnificent nature, and he’s certainly got that right! On our way to the islands, we were surrounded by many different species of birds bobbing on the sea and swooping in the skies above.

We sailed passed Staple Island which was overtaken by guillemots and kittiwakes, and then headed off to see the seals who were either lazing on the rocks or bobbing inquisitively in the sea. There are an estimated 3,000-4,000 Grey Seals in the Farne Islands!

Next was Longstone Lighthouse, where Grace Darling lived. At the age of 22, she gained national notoriety for her bravery for the part she played in the rescue of survivors from a wrecked merchant ship in 1838. Along with her father, they saved nine people from the wreck of the ‘Forfarshire’ that ran into a horrendous storm on its way to Dundee.

The landing on Inner Farne is 1 hour treat of seabirds.. but first you have to get past the Arctic Tern’s! Luckily, it was raining, which meant our heads were protected by our hoods.. they are incredibly territorial and are only trying to protect their young, but having them swoop, peck, and attack is absolutely terrifying at first! I don’t think any of us have ever walked to the toilet so fast!

Puffins are the star of the show here, and they are absolutely everywhere! Seeing them running around with their bill full of sand eels is an absolute joy to watch. Every year, they return to the Farne Islands for a short window of breeding and raising their young. This is usually between April to late July with the peak time being between May and June.

Other birds we saw inclide razorbills, black headed gulls, and my personal favourite – a shag.

Twizel Before heading back to Eyemouth, we consulted the Alltrails and found a circular that included a castle, a viaduct and a bridge. Twizel Castle is Grade II listed, but all that remains now is a shell of a folly that has been overtaken by nature. Unfortunately it’s too dangerous to explore inside and is completely fenced off, but you can still get close enough to imagine what it would have been like back in 1415 when it was held by Sir John Heron.

The walk continues along the River Tweed, before turning to following the River Till. It’s a very peaceful walk, with just the sound of the river and singing birds. The next highlight is the viaduct, which saw its last train in March 1965, and the track has since been removed. Unfortunately it’s very overgrown so difficult to appreciate it in all its glory.

At the end of the walk we were treated to the Twizel Bridge – completed in 1511, this bridge was the largest single span arch in Britain (90 feet) and remained so until 1727. The bridge carried the main A698 road from Hawick to Berwick-upon-Tweed until 1983, when a modern bridge was completed immediately to the south.

We finished off another fabulous day with a walk around Eyemouth and a big, dirty Chinese feast!

Day 2 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿

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This morning, I woke up to my car absolutely caked in bird poo… the joys of the seaside! At least the gulls are in the right place though, and not trying to get a maccies out of the bin by the Guildhall in Worcester. We knew the weather wouldn’t be on our side today, so planned a day with easy access to cafes and bars should we need to take shelter.

Cove harbour A hidden gem and an absolute treat! There are signs up saying please don’t post this place on social media.. but I’m assuming that’s more for someone who is an actual influencer 🤣 Cove has been a haven for fisherman since the 17th century, and is still in use today by a couple of small boats. There are no facilities here, and that includes no toilets. Luckily Santa was able to hold his bladder on this occasion… but the complete lack of anything means it’s the perfect place to just sit and admire the scenery and listen to the lapping of the waters. On one side are the pier houses, which are no longer lived in and only used to house fishing equipment. On the other side, once you’ve braved the pitch black tunnel, is a small beach. It’s such a stunning area, and the small car park perched on the cliff top means only a few groups of people can be there at any one time.

Oldhamstocks This was a special visit for Momma to find the final resting place of her great great aunt, who had a farm in the area. Luckily, one of the residents has put together a graveyard map, meaning we were able to find it relatively quickly. It’s a small hidden village full of history and an unusually high proportion of buildings listed for their architectural merit.

Dunbar According to ‘Visit Scotland’ website, Dunbar is “The town is renowned for its high sunshine record.” Obviously, for the entire time we were there, it rained 🤣 so we took shelter in a cafe, and I ordered a cream tea. The waitress came back a few minutes later to let us know they had run out of cream, and they were popping to the shop to get some more. What arrived was actually whipping cream and not clotted cream! So I did the English thing, had a little moan, but then told her everything was lovely. One of Dunbar’s attractions is its ruined castle perched at the entrance to the harbour. Once one of the strongest fortresses in Scotland, it is now a collapsed heap with only a small part remaining. It also has a battery, which offers great views out over the Forth of Firth, and an RNLI shop where Santa got elbow deep in a bucket of balls, and got 12 for £1.50!! If you enjoy a ‘live laugh love’ type quote, there’s the John Muir birthplace museum (free!) which is another great rain dodger to learn about the OG nature man.

Tantallon Castle We spotted this ruin from the road and decided to pull in for a closer look. We very nearly didn’t go in, because the weather was still shite and it was £7.50pp.. however it turns out English Heritage members get in for free, so we were straight through the gate! Tantallon is said to be the last truly great castle built in Scotland. It was besieged by Oliver Cromwell in 1651, and the army caused such destruction that the medieval fortress was abandoned after this last attack. There’s also great views of Bass Rock and lighthouse – home to the largest gannet colony in the world, earning it Sir David Attenborough’s claim to be one of the ‘wildlife wonders of the world’. There is a large part of the ruins still open to explore, so was definitely worth the entrance fee that we didn’t have to pay 🤣

North Berwick Boasting lovely beaches, coastal scenery, colourful buildings and the Scottish Seabird Centre, we really loved North Berwick. They are very rubbish conscious, and everywhere you look, they’ve made art out of all litter found on the beach. It also has plenty of cute shops, but unfortunately, with it being late on Sunday, most of these were closed. We did find an open charity shop, where Santa purchased more balls. The lack of open shops meant one thing.. the pub! We found a fabulous watering hole with plenty of taps and enjoyed the relaxation after a busy day exploring.

We finished the day by watching England win their first game in the Euros in a very local pub and a spot of seal spotting in Eyemouth harbour.