Kent Day 2 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿

The day began at the strange yet fascinating Dungeness – a uniquely desolate shingle headland often referred to as the UK’s only desert, even though it isn’t technically one. It is an important conservation area because of the plant and wildlife that reside there. It is a National Nature Reserve, a Special Protection Area, a Special Area of Conservation and is considered to be a site of special scientific interest.

The area has an apocalyptic and eerie feel to it, reminiscent of some of the odd American towns we have visited—places with tiny populations where people rarely leave. The shingle beach is strewn with abandoned old boats and remnants of a narrow-gauge railway line that was once used by fishermen to transport their catch from the sea to the shore for distribution.

There are two lighthouses located in Dungeness: the old lighthouse and the new one. Over the years, there have actually been five lighthouses in total. The current Old Dungeness Lighthouse, which is the fourth to be built, opened in 1904 but was retired in 1961 when the newest lighthouse was constructed. Visitors can climb to the top of the old lighthouse; however, it was closed when we visited 🤣

It’s the end of the line of The Romney, Hythe and Dymchurch railway. It runs for 13.5 miles (27.1km) across Romney Marsh to Dungeness. Opened in 1927, it is billed as the world’s smallest public railway. More importantly, the cafe and toilets are located here!

It’s also home to Prospect Cottage – the former home and sanctuary of artist, filmmaker, gay rights activist, and gardener Derek Jarman. After a successful campaign to preserve the cottage, visitors can now explore the home and workspace of one of Britain’s most iconic creative figures.

Finally, the main event, the two massive nuclear power stations creatively named A and B, dominate the landscape and skyline. The current owner, EDF Energy, is in the process of dismantling them due to significant technical challenges discovered during the maintenance shutdown in 2018.

Dungeness offers a wealth of photographic opportunities, not only because of the power stations and boats but also due to its unique buildings and converted railway carriages. The place can be described with many words—eerie, bleak, wild, and stark—but it is definitely a spot you should add to your list of places to visit. I dread to think how many photos Mum has taken!

We then headed to Folkestone, and I was excited to check out all the independent shops along the creative quarter. Unfortunately, the majority of them are closed on a Tuesday.. But I was still able to buy the obligatory postcard.. The weather continued to be on our side as we strolled around the harbour, which has undergone significant renovation, making it a vibrant seaside town.

If you are an art lover, then the Folkestone Triennial is the perfect event for you. This open-air exhibition runs for three months, from July to October, and features a free art
trail showcasing contemporary works from 18 artists representing 15 countries. Each artist has created new commissions that are displayed along the waterfront and throughout the town.

One of the highlights of the exhibition (although from 2017) is Anthony Gormley’s ‘Another Time,’ which is designed to “bear witness to what it is like to be alive and alone in space and time.” Another notable piece this year is Dorothy Cross’s ‘Red Erratic.’ This giant red stone is positioned quietly between land and sea, with feet carved into its surface. It serves as a striking reminder that nothing remains static—not people, landscapes, or history.

As previously mentioned, with it being a Tuesday, most of the food and drink establishments along the Harbour Arm were closed. This was probably a good thing for my bank account, as I would have been tempted to buy all the street food! Fortunately for Santa, Brewing Brothers was open, so we sat outside enjoying the sun while he savoured a beer.

The final stop for today was the White Cliffs of Dover, and as it was getting late, this meant a max time of hour and half to explore before the car park gates closed. The towering chalk cliffs rise 50 feet high and stretch 16 miles in length, approximately 8 miles on either side of the town of Dover. As it was a clear day, we were able to see France across the Channel, and even managed to watch an Irish Ferry pretty much make its entire journey over there. Unfortunately, you do get a Welcome to France message, and that meant for me, I was charged £2.59 roaming.. It also meant I had a slight twitchy arse moment when I thought we were late for the car park, only to realise my phone time had skipped an hour ahead. You definitely need a lot longer to explore here, especially if you want to get over to South Foreland Lighthouse, or down onto Langdon Bay – the white cliffs beach by ladder.