N.I Day 4 🏝

Today is our last full day on the Emerald Isle. It was a toss up between a visit to Rathlin Island to see the puffins, or more of the coastal drive. As we were incredibly lucky to see the puffins when we did Skomer, we decided to continue with the last few towns and beaches along the Causeway Coastal Drive. Santa decided to have a morning walk whilst I had a little lie in, but unfortunately he didn’t take a coat.. and drowned rat is an understatement when we arrived back at the apartment.

Bushmills No visit to NI is complete without a visit to the distillery (just the shop as we were pushed for time!) Santa enjoyed browsing the many whiskeys on offer, and opted for a Black Bush (🤣) and a glass to go with it. He also got a smaller tot to have on one of the beaches later on in the day.

Ballycastle The eastern gateway to the coastal route. We managed to park in one of the only pay and display car parks in the whole of N.I.. and unfortunately when we were nearly in the town, I had a horrible feeling I hadn’t locked the car, so had to powerwalk back up the hill to check (obviously I had locked it 🤦🏼‍♀) Ballycastle is a bustling town with plenty of bars and restaurants, a harbour and a beach, the ferry to Rathlin Island, and a friary ruin just on the outskirts. It also has its own heritage trail, with information boards dotted around the town. We found a cafe with great views over the beach, and the coffee here was delicious – big shout out to Shorebird Coffee Hut. We had a lovely walk along the beach, then headed to Bonamargy Friary, along the side of the golf course. It’s picturesque, yet eerie at the same time, and is definitely worth a quick visit if you are in the area. As we were walking back to the car park, the heavens opened, and they opened hard! We were very soggy doggies when we got back to the car.

Murlough Bay It is said that this is one of the most overlooked places to visit on the Antrim Coast. The journey to the small car park is dow a long, single track winding road. But with every twist and turn, reveals more spectacular views. On the walk to the bay, a lovely old gentleman stopped us for a chat, and very enthusiastically told us about seal he had seen catching a massive salmon. He was so enthusiastic, he talked and talked for about 15 minutes 🤣 he lives in a very remote place, so he probably doesn’t get much human interaction, bless him! After he got on his way (and found another family to talk to) we turned the corner and got our first look at the bay. Wow. It was breathtakingly stunning. Perfect white sand, perfect blue water, and perfect views of Rathlin Island and the Kintyre Peninsula. I’d say this beach even rivalled some of the ones I saw in Thailand! And for the most part, we had it all to ourselves. This really is a hidden gem and one not to be missed.

Torr Head Not far down the road from Murlough Bay is another very narrow and winding road to Torr Head. This drive requires you to go incredibly slowly and keep your eyes peeled for all the possible passing points. We got to the car park and headed up the mound and towards the building on the top. This used to be a signal station for shipping passing through the North Passage. However, this is now an eerie graffiti filled ruin being battered by the wind and rain. There’s even a rusty old ladder to climb up onto the roof. The views at the top again were fantastic, and we were so lucky with the weather that we could see for miles. The road back to the main route was a bit twitchy arse as we met quite a few vehicles, but we got there after a little bit of manoeuvring and clutch burning.

Fair head The last of the super twisty drives. The car park here is privately owned (£3 all day) and the area and land is also privately owned and farmed by 12 generations of the McBride family. There are so many walks around this area, but unfortunately they were all too long for us to attempt given the time we arrived. We did however manage a little stroll to one of the viewpoints. The rugged landscape here also features in many seasons of GoT, so it is definitely one to visit if you are a fan.

Portrush We had hoped to visit Carrick-a-rede, and had obviously read the opening times wrong because it was closing when we got there… it wasn’t a massive issue because I’ve been before, Santa has been before, and nothing was getting Momma on that bridge! So instead, we popped into Portrush, as we have only driven though it but never stopped. It has much more of a ‘seaside town’ vibe about it, with its funfair and amusements. We grabbed an ice cream and had a walk along the beach, before heading back to Portstewart for fish and chips.

All of the other evenings have been cloudy and rainy, but tonight was clear with minimal cloud, and that meant we finally got a sunset! We found a great spot as recommended by our Airbnb host, and with the sound of crashing waves, we watched the sun go down on our last day in Northern Ireland.

N.I Day 3 ⛵️

Today’s POA was to tackle some of the other half of the Coastal Causeway Route, as well as a few hidden inland gems. It has mostly consisted of waterfalls, small towns and villages, and A LOT of rain dodging – but that’s all part of the fun!

Carrickfergus As we have already done Belfast (the start of the Coastal Route), we decided to begin the day in Carrickfergus. It is County Antrim’s oldest town and one of the oldest towns in Ireland as a whole. It also has one of the best preserved castles in the country, which we decided to admire from the outside rather than go inside (because we’re tight 🤣) We personally didn’t find much going on here, so decided to have a coffee and cake (obvs) to kick-start the day. Unfortunately the heavens opened and we had to run back to the car in the torrential downpour.

Glenoe Just a short walk from the car park on a winding path through the glen, we arrived at this magnificent 30ft waterfall. All the rain we’ve been having made it more spectacular (every cloud) as you could hear it thundering away way before we got to it. And, because its not featured in the National Trust handbook, it makes it less known, so we had it to ourselves for the majority of the time we were there.

Glenarm We arrived to cars parked absolutely everywhere! We then heard lots of screaming and loud music. Turns out today is ‘Dalefest’ weekend, headlined by The Vamps and Sam Ryder. This meant we were unable to see the castle, as it’s grounds were holding the concert. The village of Glenarm is small, but has a lovely harbour, and a very enthusiastic man in the Tourist Information. Unfortunately, they had the WORST toilets ever. I used cleaner ones in SE Asia. Thank god for epic hovering skills.

Carnlough Another stop for another waterfall! Cranny Falls (best name ever) is a 1.5km walk from the car park, and again is one you can hear way before you get to it. The walk there was a bit slippery and muddy thanks to all the rainfall we’ve had, but was mostly along a well maintaind path. There is a viewing platform so you can see it safely, and all the luscious green flora framing the falls gave it a tropical feel. On the way back there was a gorgeous cat rolling around and sunning itself. A young girl came up the path to the cat, to which Momma asked her ‘is this your pussy’ 🤦🏼‍♀ Puss did belong to her, she was called Tilly and was being naughty because she wouldn’t go home for dindins. Carnlough itself is another small village with a harbour, cafés and an ice cream shop. We were going to get one, but then the heavens opened once more, meaning we wouldn’t have been able to enjoy our tasty treat.

Cushendall A small coastal town with lots of bright coloured shops, a sandy beach and a backdrop of the Glens of Antrim. It had started raining again and the wind was getting up on our arrival here, so it was unfortunately a quick jump out and look around.

Cushendun After a big but quick downpour, we were luckily able to explore Cushendun in the dry. It’s a village steeped in character and folklore. Here is where you will find Cushendun caves, another location for GoT. The caves are thought to have formed over 400 million years ago, and these incredible rock cavities in the cliffs on the coast have been naturally eroded over time by wind and water. We were lucky as we were the only people here, as research suggested that since GoT, the caves have become an incredibly popular location for tourists. There is also an Irish pub (which was full of rowdy lads lads lads) and a Costcutter (which didn’t sell any alcohol, much to Santa’s annoyance!)

Just as we got back to the car, the heavens opened again, and as the drive back to Portstewart was a little over an hour, we decided to call it a day. Unfortunately, we got stuck behind a horsebox, and then we got stuck behind an incredibly slow driver who kept slamming his breaks on for no reason.. but we eventually made it back. Top tip – listen to dramatic music (we went with a Hans Zimmer collection) on the coastal drive, it makes it much more fun! Tonight, we decided to book a highly rated Italian restaurant, and it certainly lived up to the hype. The food was absolutely delicious!

We were hoping for a sunset tonight. However, the clouds had other ideas. We still, however, managed to see some dramatic skies and the sea crashing over the rocks.

N.I Day 2 – The Causeway Coastal Journey 🌊

Last night was rough… with crashing waves, thunder, lightening and a power cut (and lots of house alarms). Luckily by 1am it had all calmed down, and we were finally able to get some sleep. Today was all about the Causeway Coastal Drive, and we woke up to drizzly to start the morning. We had a lovely refreshing walk along Portstewart Strand – a two-mile stretch of golden sand, with views of Inishowen headland and Mussenden Temple perched on the cliffs above. Bearing in mind we were in thick coats, we were very surprised to see the amount of people in swimming costumes, frolicking about in the ocean! I just had to look at it as was borderline hypothermic!

The next stop was Whiterocks beach, with its stunning limestone cliffs stretching from Curran Strand to Dunluce Castle. The cliffs here are unusual as they are made of chalk; whereas most of the causeway coast is made of basalt. There are so many interesting geological landforms here, from cliffs, shore platforms, caves, arches, and sea stacks.

The great thing about the coastal drive is its many viewpoints, and Magheracross did not disappoint. Here, there is a purpose built viewing platform offering panoramic views of the coastal headlands. Another plus point is the coffee and ice cream van! We were incredibly thirsty by this point, so it would be silly not to pay them a visit. Santa enjoyed an ice cream snack, and Momma and I shared a very delicious brownie.

Back onto the official coastal route and a few minutes drive later, we arrived at Dunluce Castle. We were expecting something small, but the site is actually huge, and very reasonably priced. The castle played its part in Northern Ireland’s dramatic history before falling into its current state of ruin. Today, the remains stand out on the dramatic cliffs, but remain in danger of crumbling into the sea below. It’s also the filming location for House Greyjoy in Game of Thrones.

Whilst walking round, I (thought I had) spotted Santa and wondered why he had changed his shirt. Turns out there are actually 2 Santa’s 🎅🏻

We then headed for the one we had all been looking forward to – Giants Causeway. Clearly being very thick, I assumed the ‘giant’ part of the name meant ‘big’ and not a legend that a giant was the one who had built the causeway. I was therefore expecting the actual hexagonal stepping stones to be much larger than they actually were 🤣 Don’t get me wrong, it’s still an incredible sight to see, but it was incredibly busy, and it didn’t help that we chose to visit on a weekend when the weather was actually decent. It’s Northern Ireland’s only UNESCO World Heritage Site and is thought to be almost 60 million years in the making. If you plan on visiting here, don’t come on a weekend and try to come out of season. Also, leave enough time to explore some of the walks in the surrounding area.

We continued the trail to Dunseverick, starting at the ‘castle’ and following the coastal path to the waterfall. Standing on the edge of the promontory are the crumbling ruins of the castle. Therefore, using your imagination is key. King’s gazing out to sea, watching potential invaders circling the rugged cliff below. By this point, it was really hot, and so we were able to enjoy the walk in just t-shirts – a stark contrast to this morning. Unfortunately I haven’t packed any suncream as the forecast suggested otherwise. An error I don’t usually make! We continued along the path to the waterfall, and I think this can be classed as a hidden gem, as it’s where a narrow river finalises its journey free falling down to the sea. The waterfall’s volume is obviously dependent upon rainfall.. but no need to worry about that because we’re in Ireland! The water cascading down is so calming and peaceful, so we took a perch on a nearby rock to sit and relax.

What do you think of when you hear the word beach. Is it the sea? The sand? I’m sure it isn’t cows… but that’s what you’ll find at White Park Bay, and they are said to be the most photographed cows in N.I. The bay itself is a huge stretch of golden sand, and is backed by ancient sand dunes that provide a range of rich habitats for bird and animal life. Swimming here is not permitted due to rip currents.

As the day was closing in, we decided that we would only have time for a few more activities. Stopping at Ballintoy Harbour meant we could get a few things ticked off in one go – the harbour itself and Elephant Rock. The walk to the rock is another beautiful one as you are surrounded by all sorts of rock formations, but MY GOD the initial part of it absolutely stunk of rotten fish and poo… however all was well when Elephant Rock came into view. Local folklore says this rock was the result of a woolly mammoth which had the misfortune of being caught as it tried to flee from an erupting volcano! The harbour here is very small, but also plays a part in GoT – where Theon Greyjoy arrives back to the Iron Islands and where he first meets his sister, Yara.

Feeling very tired and ready for our final stop, we headed for Dark Hedges (such a GoT filled day.. and Momma and Santa have never seen it!!) When I was last here, people we abandoning cars all over the place. Now, it is access only (although some bellend decided to ignore this and park their car right in the middle…) and you have to park in a car park just a short walk away. Although it’s hard to properly appreciate with the amount of people that choose to visit, it’s still worth it for a quick swing by.

The ocean was incredibly rough when we eventually got back to our apartment, and whilst taking the last few photos, we spotted dolphins 🐬 There was so many of them, jumping in the waves and having the absolute best time. Unfortunately they were incredible hard to photograph.. but here is some of my poor attempts…We had a lovely picky tea and drinks whilst looking out our window. We have been so so lucky with the weather today, but my crispy ginger face certainly knows about it 😭

N.I Day 1 🚢

It was an early start this morning for an early flight to Belfast! It’s been ages since I’ve flown from BHX, and there is so much work being done within the airport to try to improve the security process. We were the first in the queue (obvs) for baggage drop, but right at the back of the chaos that is the (current) security process. When we eventually got through, we went for the obligatory Spoons breakfast, with all the stag and hens. It was at this point that I got a message from Easyjet to say our flight had been delayed by 2hrs… thank god for the free coffee refill! This luckily soon changed to only an hour delay, and as soon as the gate was available, we were straight there, and one of the first in the queue (again.. obvs).

We got off the plane in an incredibly soggy Belfast, and walked what felt like a mile to the Sixt office to pick up our ride for the next few days. I went in with Momma to collect the keys, and we were given a Kia Picanto. When he saw us then meet Santa with our massive suitcase, he decided to give us a free upgrade to a Kia Rio 👍🏻 We had a straightforward drive into Belfast City Centre, however it turns out I’d picked the car park that you need to sell a kidney to park in – £3.50 an hour 😱 the original plan was to walk to the Titanic museum later in the day, but at this eye watering price, we decided to give ourself 2hrs only. We headed to the Cathedral Quarter, as research showed this is a cool and hip place. If you love street art then this is the place is for you. Unfortunately all of the cool people were taking shelter from the rain. We went into the Cathedral for cover. It’s got a very modern interior, and was nice to see for a small £2.50 fee.

We then popped to Primark to stock up on things I’d forgotten (my entire makeup bag 😭) and then headed to City Hall in the heart of the City Centre. We didn’t have enough time to go in, but it’s a lovely building from the outside, and it’s definitely worth going to. We had now worked up an appetite, so we decided to check out St George’s Market – voted the UKs best large indoor market. It’s only open from Fri – Sun and is full of everything you can think of for an indoor market. We had a burger from Sizzle & Roll, and although they took a while to make it, it was worth it because they were delicious! We power walked back to super expensive car park (as quick as possible on the slippery pavement) and got there bang on 2hrs. However, they charged us for 3!! With nobody to have a moan to, I’m tasked with sending an email to claim my £4 back 🤣

As with a lot of people, I am fascinated with everything Titanic, so this was a must do thing whilst here (and a shelter for the torrential rain) We moved the car here for a bargain £1.50 per hour. The museum is enormous, but unfortunately incredibly busy, therefore it’s difficult to properly read everything. What did surprise us, was the ‘cable car’ ride around the construction of Titanic. A fascinating insight into the sights, sounds and smells of the shipyard demonstrating what tasks had to be carried out in order to build the Titanic. The museum doesn’t hold any artifacts from the wreck site or debris field, but what you are able to see is items such as letters written on board ship (this particular letter only survived because it was in the pocket of her husband’s coat which he had given her to keep warm) and the china that would have been used. Although you will struggle to read and see everything due to the volume of visitors, I’d still 100% recommend this museum – one of the most visited attractions in NI.

A questionable Titanic themed gift..

Included in your ticket is a visit on board S.S. Nomadic – Titanic’s sister ship and the only surviving White Star Line ship in the world. For 172 passengers, she was the last stage of their journey to the doomed liner. Here you will find a lot more interactive and hands on story telling, and it’s a lot quieter.

We’ve booked an Airbnb in Portstewart overlooking the ocean, and the journey here was pretty smooth (apart from some questionable instructions from Google Maps resulting in wrong lanes). Unfortunately, the weather on arrival was absolutely awful, so we haven’t been able to get a coastal walk in yet. Fingers crossed the weather improves over the next few days.

Apartment views 🥰